Trip Log – Day 341 – Moriarty NM to Vaughn NM

to-vaughnOctober 11, 2016 – Sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 69

Miles to Date: 17,746

States to Date: 45

O give me a home where the buffalo roam

Where the deer and the antelope play

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

And the skies are not cloudy all day

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Today was a day for singing! Back in the wide-open spaces to begin my fourth swath across the Great Plains – this time traveling east from the Sandia foothills across the New Mexico sage and the Ogallala Aquifer nourished South Plains of Texas to Fort Worth.

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I spent the whole day on broad shoulders of I-40 and US 285. Road sign mania! None in the cars or trucks zooming past could hear me vocalize. They don’t know what they missed.

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The temperature was perfect, the sun was bright and the wind nudged me forth from behind.

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I actually did see antelopes play.

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I feasted at The Encino Firehouse Mercantile and Deli, the only business in the town of fifty souls. Victor Gallupe, City Councilman, Fire Chief and cafe proprietor, explained that the town used to be four or five times larger. But he has hopes for the future: the largest wind farm in New Mexico is being built fifteen miles due west on US 60.

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Over 100 trains a day pass through Encino, along a main east/west corridor that parallels US 60.

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Live horses make Vaughn’s welcome sign authentically Western.

 

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Profile Response: Susan Ruth, Nashville TN

HWWLT Logo on yellowOn Monday morning five degrees of separation existed between Susan Ruth and me. Then a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend told Susan about my journey. She called my number, I picked up along the road, and by Monday evening we were sitting in her kitchen discussing humanism and tomorrow. Susan recorded part of our conversation for her podcast, ‘Hey Human,’ (http://www.Heyhumanpodcast.com) I asked her, “How will we live tomorrow?’ We are the 21st century equivalent of people making a life by taking in each other’s laundry. There is no money to be made in reaching out to others and tossing our impressions on the Internet, but Susan and I both believe there is value in the interaction and ripple in the ideas we discuss.

screen-shot-2016-10-08-at-2-50-12-pmSusan’s an artist and cartoonist (http://www.Vividgallery.org), a podcaster, a self-taught guitar and pianist, vocalist and songwriter with four CD’s to her credit (http://www.Susanruth.com). Reba McEntire covered Ruth’s song, ‘Promise Me Love,’ on her most recent album: an awesome songwriting credit, but not a livelihood. Ruth still has a day job as the office manager for a local architectural firm. She is good at it, but it’s not her passion. “I have friends who have given up their artistic pursuits for more security. I don’t now how to do that. There are diddies and doodles in my head all day long. How can I do anything but what I love to do?”

Susan moved to Nashville four years ago. “It was either here or LA or New York.” Nashville has the advantage of lower cost living. Susan bought a small house last year and fixed it up sweet.

imgres-1Susan’s first round of podcasts are conversations with a female friend. She started ‘Hey Human’ to draw from a wider audience. “I want to talk to everyone; convicts, hate groups, not just people who agree with me.” In terms of interviewing me, Susan failed in that regard; the two of us turned out to be very simpatico.

Growing up, Susan was fascinated by religion. She attended various churches and eventually studied religion and literature at Western Washington University. ““I’m not religious. I believe in God but He’s not what everyone believes in and I respect that and the individual journey to God or Enlightenment or Science.” She describes herself as a humanist, though her outlook is realistic rather than rosy. “Humans are not content to be. We’re terrified of our feelings, our depression. I don’t have a TV. If I did I would watch it. Why do that? The commercials program us to feel bad about ourselves. I don’t look at the news anymore. I can’t. We’re inundated by the bad stuff.”

imagesSusan views the current presidential election as a wake-up to our nation. “Trump is the bird-dog running through the forest of America. The crazy birds are flocking to him.”

Susan quotes a friend with saying, “We’re fat cats, starving.” She illustrates it with the story of a man she observed at a coffee shop. He ordered coffee and a muffin. He sat down, looked at the muffin, and his face revealed conflict about eating it. “I watched his guilt and shame as he ate. He was eating pain. That is why we’re obese. Pain is heavy.”

How will we live tomorrow?

img_6974“I’ve been thinking about it all day. We will likely hold our breath for a while. We are trying not to drown. We will likely venture off this rock and find another rock. If we can understand each other – understanding and compassion are the keys – we will find a way to continue.

“I am an alien, not in the science fiction way, but in the sense of being ‘other’. I’m part of something bigger than me, than my community, than this earth.”

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Trip Log – Day 340 – Albuquerque NM to Moriarty NM

to-moriartyOctober 10, 2016 – Sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 53

Miles to Date: 17,677

States to Date: 45

Albuquerque is low-slung as Fresno, visually chaotic as Houston, friendly as Minneapolis, street-peopled as Portland, and outdoorsy as Denver. Albuquerque’s much smaller than I thought: its sister city Phoenix is more than four times its size.

img_7754I pedaled the length of Fourth Street, which is about as diverse a strip as any in our nation. I visited Old Town and the Jetty Jacks along the Rio Grande flood plain, downtown and the university. I was enthralled by the National Museum of Everything Nuclear, a more apt name than its official title. Mostly I liked Albuquerque because everyone I met, from coffee guru to college professor, to nature walker, to obese bicycle man, to green chili curry waitress, to ED doc in spandex, was open and engaging.

What I couldn’t compose in my brief stay was a coherent image of the place. Instead I found myself drawn to Albuquerque’s details. To the light on the coarse adobe walls, the contrast of brilliant orange against so much brown, to folk murals and stainless steel shimmering in the blinding sun.

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Perhaps Albuquerque is the quintessential American city – disparate parts loosely tied together into an entity that resists cohesion.

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Profile Response: John Anderson, Bell Buckle TN

HWWLT Logo on yellowEvery so often I knock on my host’s door, he calls out, “come in,” and the moment I enter his face reveals complete surprise. He’s forgotten about me. No one has ever recovered from that lapse as quickly as John Anderson, who seemed just as pleased to see me as if he’d been preparing all day.

Hospitality wears many faces. John was apologetic about his house, “The bathroom looks like a Mexican mechanic shop.” I’ve seen worse. He asked if I’d eaten with a tone that conveyed there was no food, but described the differences among three kinds of beer in the fridge with flourish. He told me to help myself, but I never had to. Every time John opened a beer, he handed another to me as well. His walls are full of posters, pictures, and quotes, as well as many notes. “I am a high functioning alcoholic, but I forget things atscreen-shot-2016-10-08-at-2-38-15-pm night so I put notes on them.” People often ask if I’d like to use the washing machine. John showed me a pile of fresh clean clothes and said, “Wear what you like while you’re here.” I stuck with the stuff in my panniers.

 

We hopped into his Varis and took the three-block drive to the end of Maple Street, stopping to chat with neighbors along the way. We visited his friend Martha and her ex-husband, two of their three children and a pair of grandkids, all of whom were all camped out in the house of the one child travelling. There comes a time when you stop trying to make sense of Bell Buckle and just enjoy it.

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John was born in the house across the street from where he lives now. He was a teacher, ultra-marathoner and long distance cyclist. In 2014 he ran for Congress and came in third in Tennessee’s Fourth Congressional District Republican Primary. He considers his run a success, as he believes his candidacy kept Jim Tracy, by a margin of 38 votes, from winning that primary. John’s Tea Party politics are strongly held, if difficult for me to weave together. This year, he rode his bicycle from Seattle to Jacksonville to publicize rebellionride.com, his manifesto on how the citizens of the United States will peaceably overthrow the government.

screen-shot-2016-10-08-at-2-38-30-pmThough many would say John looks like an aging hippie, he describes himself as a Viking. Which makes sense. Vikings were early, independent explorers, who flourished with whatever came their way. That’s how John accepted me when I showed up at his door, invited yet unexpected.

 

How will we live tomorrow?

img_6966“Hillary Clinton will be elected. Her presidency will be a time of such disaster. This doesn’t have anything to do with Hillary Clinton.

“We, the American people, are going to overthrow the government and we are not going to do it with bullets. If anyone wants to see how, go to www.rebellionride.com. If anyone has better ideas, I’m open to them, but I have yet to hear any.”

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Trip Log – Day 339 – Santa Fe NM to Albuquerque NM

to-albuquerqueOctober 9, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 58

Miles to Date: 17,624

States to Date: 45

My tires stayed gripped to the earth, but my attention all day was in the clouds. From first light through midday to evening storms, the New Mexico sky was amazing today.

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Profile Response: Mark Higginson, Tyson Contractor, Arab, AL

HWWLT Logo on yellowMark Higginson is bigger than life, and quotes numbers that prove it. “I raise over six million pounds of chicken a year. I’ve got seven chicken houses, 16,000 square feet each. Each house has 21,000 chickens. I grow six crops a year, and have a week or two off in between. My chickens are the roasters you find at Wal-Mart, Sam’s and Costco.”

Mark has been a contract farmer for Tyson for 33 years. During that time, the gist of the business has not changed. Tyson delivers baby chicks at the beginning of each growing period. They provide the food and vaccines for each bird. They visit weekly to monitor their progress. After seven to eight weeks, they take the full-grown birds away. Mark gets paid for each full-grown chick he delivers, and works to keep his cull rate below four percent.

img_6921 The biggest change in 33 years is monitoring. Each chicken house is regulated for temperature and humidity. Mark also gets an alarm notification if water dispensers or food troughs clog. “They live better than your average house pet,” Mark shows me the airy buildings where the chickens roam at will. The place doesn’t even smell: a fertilizer company cleans out each house on a regular basis in exchange for the chicken dung they use to make 16-16-16 fertilizer.

 

Although Mark served me steak for dinner the night I stayed with him, he knows chicken is king. “Americans eat 72 pounds of chicken a year, to 68 pounds of beef. That’s only going to grow. Doctors tell adults to lay off the fat; kids like their chicken fingers. It takes five pounds ofimg_6895 feed to make a pound of beef. It only takes two pounds of chicken feed. Beef can never catch up.”

There are 150 chicken raising farms in this area that supply the Blountville processing plant. Mark’s is among the largest, and longest established. His 70-acre farm is a $6 million investment that yields him a good life. The farm has four houses, one for his mother and two to rent. He also leases 50 acres for grazing. Mark and his girlfriend Julie often travel during the break between shipments. But when the chickens roost, Mark works every day with the help of a small crew during the week.

img_6897I asked Mark why Tyson does not fold chicken growing into their operation. “If they did it, they would need three shift crews. I can do it with one. It’s win-win. They don’t have all that staff, I get to live on the land and grow animals.”

Mark believes in this system, which has provided for him well and feeds so many. “I’m not pulling a nuclear trigger. I’m not polluting the air. I’m growing food for people. One man; six million pounds a year. The American farmer is the most efficient on earth.”

How will we live tomorrow?

img_6920“I am a survivor in our society. I ain’t worried.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 338 – Santa Fe NM

to-santa-feOctober 8, 2016 – Clouds and rain, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 26

Miles to Date: 17,566

States to Date: 45

My hosts described Santa Fe as a tale of two cities. Yesterday, pedaling in from the north, I passed through the million-dollar rancho city. This morning I witnessed the other city. I pedaled to a local McDonald’s for a morning writing session before Santa Fe’s attractions opened only to find the bike rack full. Turns out many other middle aged men, all the rest Hispanic, most of them marginally homeless, descended on this place for their morning warmth. Some played guitar, some avoided purchasing anything, some commandeered the men’s room for long periods of wash and clothes change. Some men sat in groups chatting, laughing, while others sat alone staring blankly into fate. I was impressed with the Gringo manager who dealt with all of these demographically unfavorable customers with patience and respect. I find humanity in McDonald’s wherever I go.

img_7694After ten I explored the streets of this charming capital city of high altitude style and colorful art. The colors were particularly welcome on this grey, featureless day. The State Capitol is among the most bizarre in our nation. Not only no dome, not even a flag. The frontcourt features a sculpture of three girls and two boys at tug-of-war; very odd for a guy accustomed to New England’s obligatory Revolutionary War hero on a horse.

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The Santa Fe Society of Artists Show, which occurs every weekend spring through fall, featured some lovely art. I particularly liked Madeleine Durham’s wavy images on handmade paper (www.madeleinedurham.com) and Matthew Rhodes very colorful acrylics (www.matthewrhodesfineart.com).

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All of which was a pre-act for my visit to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, a perfect place that does justice to a great artist without exhausting the visitor. Though I know much of Georgia O’Keeffe’s work, I was taken by her early West Texas landscapes. These horizontal layered images, painted in the early 1920’s seem to me to joyful precursors of the Abstract Expressionist color field painters of the 1950’s. The three horizontal bands hint at what Mark Rothko did, at a different scale and to different effect, thirty years late. There’s a dissertation in that for anyone interested in pursuing a Ph.D. in art history.

img_7707After so much culture, I indulged in a late lunch at Lotsaburger, a local fast food franchise that lives up to its hype. Full of high art and low food, I rode seventeen miles in the rain to stay with a host who lives in an Airstream. Fortunately for me, the rain stopped just in time to witness my own tri-partie horizontally banded landscape, albeit in the grey tones of the day.

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Profile Response: Rev. Justin Nelson Alphonse, Pastor, Holy Family Parish, Birmingham, AL

HWWLT Logo on yellow“We gave one for God, one for country, one for family, and one to give away.” Justin Nelson Alphonse is from a family in southern India who converted to Catholicism several generations ago. “The Portuguese came first to India, seeking spices. Then the Dutch, the French, and the English. Each brought their missionaries. Before the Europeans, India was over 700 small kingdoms. Now we are one country.” His oldest brother serves in the army; another brought his wife into the family home; and his sister left to be with her husband’s family. When Justin was in the tenth grade, a Passionist Priest visited his class. Justin wrote him a note, “I want to preach Christ crucified in India.” Shortly after, he entered the seminary. Justin is the child his family gave to God.

img_6876Six years ago, after twelve years of seminary study and juggling ten poor parishes in India as well as several missionary appeal trips to the U.S., Justin was transferred to our country. His first assignment, an affluent parish near Louisville, KY, was a shock to a man skilled at working with the poor. Although Father Nelson will spread the Gospel wherever he is called, he seems more content in his current assignment, pastor to two African-American parishes around Birmingham. “My parishes are small. One has 175 families, the other, 90. Only 2% of African-Americas in Birmingham are Catholic.”

He shares a pair of rectory houses with three other Passionists, one from Ecuador who works primarily with Hispanics, and two from the United States. In addition to his parish work Father Nelson is responsible for Holy Family Middle School, which is affiliated with Christo Rey High School across the street. “The Christo Rey model is very successful. Every student works a job as well as attending classes. Four students, one from each grade, share a job. Every fourth day they go to their workplace instead of class, so one day all the freshmen are at work, the next day sophomores, etc.” Their earnings offset tuition. “One hundred percent of our students go to college, most on scholarship. Many wind up working in for the firms where they start. Itimg_6880 is aimed for the poor. Parents have to make less than $38,000 for their children to qualify.”

Justin is keenly aware of the dichotomies of American society and how it is manifested in developing countries like India. “Western dreams are changing India’s cities. Software salaries are high, young people have too much money. But in the country, living is simple.” He acknowledges India’s challenges of caste and corruption. Still, he witnesses different kinds of disruption here. “In this neighborhood, we cannot go outside at night. All of our cars are broken into; I leave nothing in my car. Every weekend or two, people are shot. There’s drugs; prostitution; people drop the mentally ill on the streets of Ensley. Actually, it’s getting better. I’ve made our parish more visible, there is more respect for what we do.” I noticed that several other churches in the neighborhood had barbed wire fences around them. “We are the only church that is open during the day. People can come into our church office any time.” In addition to his pastoral and school work, Reverend Nelson has a prison ministry and an addiction ministry. “I love people and people love me.”

imagesI asked Reverend Nelson about the dwindling number of vocations, and whether allowing priests to marry might change that. “We live in a world where people have wants and want to satisfy them. Priest life is not like that. I have many blessings. I have a house, a car, the essentials, but I don’t get to choose the house or the car or even where i live. It’s not about sex or getting married. Vocations are declining because contemporary culture does not support spiritual life.” He points to his heart. “Happiness is not out there. Happiness is in here.”

How will we live tomorrow?

img_6871“I was watching the news today. A small town in Texas is promoting tiny houses and living simply. I think we are going to live simply. In the U.S. I don’t live rich, so when I return to India I am content with what I have.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 337 – Ghost Ranch NM to Santa Fe NM

to-santa-feOctober 7, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 68

Miles to Date: 17,540

States to Date: 45

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I like the rhythm of constant movement. I’ve never wanted to linger anyplace I’ve visited in my survey course of the United States. Until I came to Ghost Ranch, a dude ranch for the spirit and intellect. Here, I found the New Mexico magic so many herald. The scenery is beautiful, the people are engaging, the facilities are functionally stylish. Beyond that, the air is ambrosia and the light ethereal.

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But lingering can be the agenda for another trip; this one is dedicated to rolling. So, after a morning hike up the Cliffside Trail and a terrific breakfast sauced with more interesting conversations with middle aged men penning poems and women painting plein air, I headed down (or is it up?) to Santa Fe. Down because it’s to the south. Up, because it is at 7200 feet elevation – the highest state capital in our nation and the last great height of my trip.

img_7678The ride east and south along US 84/285 wasn’t as captivating as yesterday’s trek, but I kept on, climbing against the wind, past Castle Rock, over the crest where the Santa Fe Opera perches, and down to Santa Fe.

 

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Profile Response: Jim Douglass, Birmingham, AL

HWWLT Logo on yellowJim Douglass and his wife Shelly came to Birmingham 27 years ago to watch for a train that never came. They are non-violent activists for peace, married 45 years, devotees of Dorothy Day who live according to the three precepts of the Catholic Worker: hospitality, advocacy, and round table discussion.

Shelly and Jim were living near Seattle, on a piece of property that the Ground Zero Center had purchased next to the Trident Nuclear Submarine base in Puget Sound, immersed in the Tracks Campaign that monitored rail shipments of nuclear fuel from the Pantex plant in Amarillo, TX to the base. “The trains were pure white. There were turrets on the cars, with guns to protect the train from the citizens.” Train monitors alerted advocacy groups along the train’s route. Protestors disrupted the passage of nuclear materials. Eventually, the trains took longer, more complex routes to avoid controversy. “The longer the routes, the more our ranks swelled. No one wanted nuclear material hauled through their town.” The government began shipping material through Birmingham to Charleston. Shelley and Jim moved to Birmingham to head the local watch effort. But the government eventually abandoned train transport altogether, opting for less traceable modes like trucks and planes.

images-1“We were here, waiting for a train that didn’t come. So we asked, ‘Why did God bring us to Birmingham?’

Before the trains, before Ground Zero, before Shelley, Jim was a young Catholic activist in Rome, where he lived from 1962 through 1964 lobbying Pope John XXIII’s Vatican Council to make a statement against total war and in support of conscientious objectors. That’s where he first met Dorothy Day, who came to Rome on a pilgrimage in appreciation of John XXIII encyclical ‘Pacem in Terris.’

Dorothy Day and her Catholic Worker precepts made a major impact on Jim, but so did others. “Martin Luther King changed my life.” When the civil rights leader was shot in Memphis in 1968, Jim was teaching at the University of Hawaii. In response, his students formed ‘Hawaii Resistance,’ and he joined. “A month later I was arrested for protesting the call-up after the Pueblo crises. It was my first experience being arrested. That was the end of my academic career. I didn’t understand the dynamics of Martin Luther King’s assassination until I read his final book, advocating massive non-violent action across the globe. That’s when I realized it wasn’t a lone assassin.”

imgresJim began to question the four major assassinations of the 1960’s – JFK, Malcolm X, RFK, MLK. His research led to JFK and the Unspeakable. “I was interested in the ‘why’ of Kennedy’s assassination. The ‘how; is in there, but the ‘why’ is more important to me. JFK’s favorite poem was ‘A Rendezvous with Death.’ He was consumed by it his entire life. You have this Cold Warrior elected President, but during the Bay of Pigs he begins to turn. He realizes he must trust the enemy or we will annihilate each other.” This runs counter to military and economic interests. “The consequences are enormous. If you can take out the President of the United States without consequences, you’re invincible.”

JFK and the Unspeakable took Jim in a new direction. Now he is working on a companion book that addresses the other three major assassinations. I asked him how 911 fits into all of this. “I don’t know the details of 911, but I read David Ray Griffin. He’s written ten books on 911.”

Which brings us back to Birmingham, where Shelly and Jim have responded to the question of why God brought them here by opening Mary’s House, a refuge in the Ensley neighborhood. They share community meals and have bi-annual retreats where they discuss the big issues of the day. They work for peace by living it.

How will we live tomorrow?

imgres-1“Like this or not at all; non-violence or non-existence.

“But we need more discipline. If the army could bestow discipline on the peace movement it would be a great aid to non-violence.”

 

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