Profile Response: Gary Hill, Harpers Ferry WV

HWWLT Logo on yellowI’ve logged over a thousand miles on the second phase of my trip, and one aspect of my journey that has changed can be summed up in two words: Donald Trump. Whether people love him, despise him or fear him, everyone talks about him.

Back in the primary days of 2015, while I pedaled across the north and west, the Donald got the most attention of all candidates on the airwaves but not the complete attention of people I met on the ground. There was a sense that it was not politically correct to support Donald Trump, supporters took a low profile. Yet in state after state voters pulled the curtain on primary day and selected him as the Republican candidate.

Now that covert support has blossomed. If yard signs are an indication of electoral might, Trump will squash Hillary. From Massachusetts to Virginia, the open spaces ten miles beyond big city limits are littered with his name.

imgres-2Gary Hill was a restaurant designer in the West and Hawaii; he even spent fifteen years designing eateries in Guam. After his second wife died, he sold everything, got a PO box in Las Vegas and spent seven years travelling. Gary hiked the Appalachian Trail, The Israeli National Trial, and Kilimanjaro. He cycled across the US three times. Finally, he settled in Harper’s Ferry where he is an active volunteer with the AT Conservancy and owns a collection of rental houses. At age 70, Gary was the featured hiker in the National Geographic film, ‘Appalachian Trail,’ the guy they follow up Maine’s Mount Katadhin. “That was my fifteen minutes of fame.”

imgres-1Gary is a news junkie with a center/left slant. He reads The Washington Post cover to cover every day and watches MSNBC. During our conversation over dinner at a local restaurant, Gary said, a bit too loud, “We’ve got a crazy person and an uninspired woman.” The man at the next table stood up, came over and shook his hand. ‘That’s the most cogent description of this election I’ve heard.”

No matter where one stands on the political spectrum in this country, Trump is in the air and the ground feels unsteady.

How will we live tomorrow?

imgres“In my opinion if Donald Trump is elected President, we’re all going to die.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 302 – Leitchfield KY to Louisville KY

Louisville KYSeptember 2, 2016 – Sunny, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 82

Miles to Date: 15,585

States to Date: 43

The season has changed. The morning was crisp and bright and I was out early to navigate a long cycling day with many hills, constant headwinds, and a lost hour as I moved back into Eastern Time.

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The first two thirds of the ride was beautiful, though I never seemed to be out of earshot of mowers. The grass in Kentucky is truly lush, the lawns are huge, and people obviously love taking care of their green expanses. Everyone has a riding mower and trimmer.

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IMG_7062After Shepherdsville the ride took an unpleasant turn. Five miles of road construction followed by more miles of what I call ‘big box highway.’ Louisville spreads far to the east. My niece’s house, though in Louisville, is fifteen miles from center city. There was nothing to do but grind out the miles. It was all worth it when I got to Tatiana’s house and met my grand nieces Sarah and Anna for the first time.

 

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Trip Log – Day 301 – Bowling Green KY to Leitchfield KY

Leitchfield KYSeptember 1, 2016 – Overcast, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 46

Miles to Date: 15,503

States to Date: 43

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Kentucky is like the Runaway Mine Train kiddie coaster at Six Flags, an endless series of little hills and dales. On this grey day, I added color in my imagination and envisioned the crazy quilt of contours and crops as a real-life David Hockney painting.

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Kentucky ought to be named ‘The Front Porch State.’ Almost every house has one, and on a seasonable Thursday morning, a good many of the rockers are occupied by folks chatting, smoking, taking in the view, and waving at oddball cyclists.

IMG_7039It is also a place where architectural symmetry is worshipped as a god. Like all theologies, this can be followed to a fault.

By late afternoon the clouds lifted and the sky came clear. When my host Joyce opened the door she had confused the day, but didn’t miss a beat in offering me on of the best meals of my trip: cornbread griddle cakes topped with white northern beans and homemade relish and homemade pineapple cake for dessert. That woman can cook!

IMG_7042After supper, Joyce was off to visit her three-week-old twin grandsons. She gave me a ticket to Grayson County Fair, a short walk away. I enjoyed walking the mid-way, watching the Mrs. Grayson County Pageant and tractor pull. But what I liked most was checking out all the blue ribbon winning food. Next year, I‘m hoping they invite me back. Who could better judge the sweets?

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Responses: Will will we live tomorrow?

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’m okay for my life. I’m 66. I’m worried about my kids and grandkids. I hate to say that. I love this country and I am worried. Then again, my dad said the same thing to me after coming out of World War II.”

Randy, Suburban driver, Charlottesville, VA

How will we live tomorrow?

“One day at a time.”

Diane, five-mile-a-day-runner, Charlottesville, VA

How will we live tomorrow?

“That’s a very good question. Actually, we’re not in good shape. It’s troubling. People have to be less selfish.”

Graham, British immigrant, Dillwyn, VA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Tomorrow I’m going to get up and come down for coffee. I have no other plans. Tuesday, I’m having lunch with my cycling buddies. Wednesday, I have a book discussion with guys who read religious literature. I have a calendar of activities at home. By the end of the month that thing is full.”

Charlie, retired English composition teacher and open-carry motorcycle enthusiast, Farmville, VA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully the Good Lord will wake me up and let me be filled with love.”

Kia, waitress, Gino’s Pizza, Clarksville, VA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Ha,ha,ha,ha. (yawn).”

Kim, Regency Inn, Oxford NC

How will we live tomorrow?

“We all must use fewer resources, and we all need to understand that this doesn’t mean we are less happy. It is American marketing that has told us we must buy more and use more and eat more in order to be happy.”

Kathy Ellis, reflecting on her son Tyndall’s trip with his wife Liz from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego by bicycle, as they cross a 15,000 pass in Peru, Rixeyville, VA

How will we live tomorrow?

“History will repeat – preservation of nature & HiARTchitecture (past, present, & future) will build on the solid foundation that makes the world better for now & for ever & for peace.”

Merrick Teichman, artist, Charleston, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“I just do what I can. I am an old man. I got no wife. I got no teeth.”

John Chapman, pancake lover, Angier, NC

How will we live tomorrow?

“Things are not good. My car broke down yesterday so we’re on foot. But it will get better.”

Mother and son, Erwin, NC

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully we’ll live in peace and harmony and be kind to one another. I was just watching my daughter use this McDonald’s app that came with her happy meal. In it, she had to help a rabbit find its way home. I thought that was so nice – a game to help others.”

Serena, McDonald’s customer, Charleston, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully, on our bikes.”

Jeff, Cannondale Cycles, Charleston, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“Do you have a wife? Where do you stay?”

Whitney, rather ask questions than respond to them, Maxton, NC

How will we live tomorrow?

“One day at a time.”

John, maintenance worker, Clio, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“Awesome!”

Alexandria, Verizon Wireless, Monck’s Corner, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“Tomorrow I will do what I did today; walk my dog, do some painting, feed my fish.”

Patricia, artist, Raleigh, NC

How will we live tomorrow?

“My tomorrows are never the same, but always the same. I’m an administrator and a scholar. There is always much that’s predictable and something that I can’t predict. That’s what I like about it.”

William, History of Biology Professor, Raleigh, NC

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’m going to light a cigarette before I answer. The way I see the world, society is super-connected. Every bit of society is connected. I don’t agree with the powers that be. I don’t trust the government. I don’t like the direction the world’s headed in. The people at the top love money and power so much they will let the machines take over and take livelihoods away from the rest of us.”

Gordon, online student, Florence, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“Most of the people I know, including myself, know more about the Facebook algorithm than about botany. We have no idea where the basics of life come from.”

Robert Watkins, tattoo aficionado, Florence, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“I had a football coach who said, ‘Today you’re either going to be better or worse than yesterday. You can’t stay the same. Which do you want?’”

Person, Wofford college student, Florence, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“What the hell. I’m going to live tomorrow as I planned, for the most part.”

Cameron, drummer, Florence, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“I want the government to guarantee people’s fundamental rights and then back away. I’m a Christian, I don’t agree with gays. But I want to be able to get married, and they ought to be able to get married too. It’s their fundamental right. It doesn’t infringe on me.”

Taylor, beer drinker, Florence, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“We want to live the dream, to travel with our children and live as we go.”

Cassie, mother of two girls, Florence, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“This is where states rights were born. We want decisions to be made at the most local level possible.”

Kelly, fair-skinned smoker, Florence, SC

How will we live tomorrow?

“We always ask our staff, what’s new? They reply, “I’m here. I’m good to go.”

Kevin Wright, golf pro, Charleston, SC

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Trip Log – Day 300 – Hendersonville, TN to Bowling Green KY

Bowling Green KYAugust 31, 2016 – Sunny, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 72

Miles to Date: 15,459

States to Date: 43

My host, Bruce Day, woke early to feed me well and then ride me out of town. Actually, Bruce rode me clear out of state. It’s great to follow a knowledgeable local on a bike ride. We took one road not taken after another; beautiful scenery and scant traffic,

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IMG_7016Bruce turned around once we reached the Kentucky border. While he retraced the hills and forests of Tennessee, I entered the more expansive world of Kentucky. I have been to Eastern Kentucky, dense and hilly Appalachia. The route to Bowling Green could be anywhere in the Mid-west: broad fields of corn and soy beans with occasional fields of tobacco. The roads are very fine and the rural drivers courteous.

Screen Shot 2016-09-01 at 2.05.16 PMI toured historic downtown Franklin. I am fond of towns that have a courthouse square with commercial blocks on four sides rather than a linear Main Street. A courthouse square organizes the town’s quadrants and celebrates our foundation as a nation of laws over individuals or commerce. We may not be maintaining that ideal as we ought, but I appreciate how courthouse squares celebrate that essential aspect of the United States.

 

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Trip Log – Day 299 – Nashville, TN to Hendersonville, TN

Hendersonville TNAugust 30, 2016 – Sunny, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 41

Miles to Date: 15,387

States to Date: 42

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I walked out of the Nashville Entrepreneurial Center, located in the former Trolley barn turned hip workspace along the Cumberland River, after spending two hours talking with thoughtful energetic young people. Downtown Nashville spread before me like a tableau of the New South. Five construction cranes hovered above the city’s bursting skyline; three more swung in the distance. On a per capita basis, Nashville may be the fastest growing city I’ve visited. The place is brimming with a concerted focus on livability and sustainability and good intentions that can’t keep up with themselves. There are bike paths all over downtown, but construction barriers everywhere block many of them.

IMG_6990Music City throbs with a caffeinated baseline. Energy pulses through the streets, electric bus energy that pumps your spirit rather than pollutes your lungs. The place feels good, if you hanker for a frenetic beat. Not sure where you might find a languid, tragic ballad.

I rode by the Capital and the Parthenon, and shared a great lunch at Fido, near Vanderbilt, with a long-time Nashville musician. Then I pedaled up Music Row, over the river, and through the charming streets of East Nashville. Superb cycling all the way to Hendersonville.

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Bruce Day, my host for the night, demonstrated a whole new level of warmshowers hospitality. When I mentioned I’d like to check my tire pressure, the retired ED doc commandeered my bike and gave Tom a complete wash and chain service while we traded touring stories. His wife Wilma served a delicious put roast dinner and washed my clothes better than I’ve ever managed. Four of Bruce’s cycling chums, several of who are also PhD’s, gathered in the basement to share beers and snacks and chew over our prospects for tomorrow.

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Profile Response: Johna Applestein, North Bethesda, MD

HWWLT Logo on yellowJohna is a determined 24-year-old woman brimming with creative potential. Her parent’s house is full of sculptures she’s made in various mediums. She is also an aerial artist on the silks. Two years ago, after graduating college, she applied to NECCA (New England Center for the Circus Arts) but didn’t make the cut. She improved her skills the following year, applied again and was accepted. Then she tore her ACL. After a year of rehab and teaching at a local circus camp, Johna’s looking forward to finally attending circus school this fall.

IMG_7276Her parents and I were deep into our discussion of tomorrow when Johna joined us. She wove into the conversation, as often with snippets of song lyrics as in prose. I asked her my question – once- and though she seemed intrigued, especially about those who gave ’24 hour responses,’ she didn’t offer up her own ideas. I don’t press a second time.

The next morning I found a folded sheet of paper with my name on the kitchen table and the following response inside. I always appreciate when the question simmers.

How will we live tomorrow?

images-1“Maybe it matters less, how we will live tomorrow, and more how we will live today. You can go into tomorrow, or next week, or next year, or the rest of your life with an intention, but life will throw things at you and things won’t work out the way you intended. But we can live each day with as much joy and gratitude as possible and be here and now embracing each moment. For example, can we forget about Trump and Brexit for a minute and really be present and appreciate the fireflies twinkling in the trees. That’s not to say the future doesn’t matter at all. Maybe tomorrow something bad will happen but then later a good thing will come out of the bad and then a bad from the good. Se we’ve just got to bop along following the path that works best for each of us.”

A million tomorrows shall all pass away, ‘ere I forget all the joy that is mine, today.

I can’t be contented with yesterday’s glory. I can’t live on promises winter to spring,

Today is my moment and now is my story,

I’ll laugh and I’ll cry and I’ll sing.

– ‘Today’ by Randy Sparks, popularized by John Denver

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Trip Log – Day 298 – Bell Buckle TN to Nashville, TN

to NashvilleAugust 29, 2016 – Partly cloudy, 85 degrees

Miles Today: 62

Miles to Date: 15,346

States to Date: 42

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I got up and out by seven for another day of scenic riding through Tennessee’s rolling hills. The greenway through Murfeesboro is one of the nicest I’ve seen; well used even on a Monday morning.

IMG_6973The path goes right through the Stones River National Battlefield that commemorates the Battle of Stones River, a major turning point in the Civil War. On December 31, 1862 the Union began an offensive across Stones River to cut the Confederacy, and it’s rail transport, in half. For the duration of the war the Union maintained up to 50,000 troops and an immense supply depot here. They built two miles of earthworks to protect their wares from which they could also launch cannon attacks on the town. This is where Sherman launched his devastating March to the Sea.

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The rest of the way into Nashville was increasingly urban, but there are bike lanes on most major roads of the city. I spent the afternoon at the Southeast Library, an immense local branch; my favorite repurposing yet for an abandoned shopping mall.

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Profile Response: Marta Vogel and Eliot Applestein, North Bethesda, MD

HWWLT Logo on yellow“Building community in the suburbs is like pumping up a tire that has a persistent leak.” Marta Vogel and Eliot Applestein have lived in the Tilden Woods area of Bethesda for 23 years. “It was easier to meet people when the children were young.” Now, their daughters are in the mid-twenties and although Marta says she knows ever person on their 32-house cul de sac by sight, she acknowledges that’s because she is always trying to create new ways to bring the neighbors together.

“I would like to start at Senior Village here in the neighborhood. I know at least five single people who are living in their houses alone – the same model we do.” Montgomery Country has a senior village system to help people age in place, but Marta wants to work at a much smaller scale.

IMG_7279Eliot taught AP Psychology in the Montgomery County Schools for 32 years. He retired in 2012 and has a college application consulting firm, bestfouryears.com. Marta is a freelance writer and editor in health communications. They are both avid gardeners, and are in the process of writing a musical farce about affirmative action.

Marta is a regular baker. “I buy wheat in bulk, grind it myself, and make all our bread. No knead bread is so easy. Five minutes to mix, let sit for eighteen hours and then bake.” The morning I left Marta made waffles from her batter. They were delicious.

How will we live tomorrow?

Screen Shot 2016-08-23 at 4.50.13 PM“Robots are a big threat. I like to read the Wall Street Journal and The Washington Post. Occasionally there will be an article about robots. They always stress that robots will not be a threat, but I think they are. Look at GPS. Nobody knows where they are anymore. We are getting dumber and dumber.

“Our older daughter met her fiancé on the high school bus. Eliot and I are involved with the community center here. We are always trying to generate community. Recently we started a contra dance. I went to the school bus stop to hand out flyers. Every kid had ear buds on. Would my daughter have met her fiancé today? No one talks to each other anymore.

“We have lost our sense of awe and wonder. Look at Notre Dame in Paris. When a peasant came in from the country and saw it for the first time, he must have thought he saw God. Now, we never see anything with new eyes. We see fifty pictures of the Eiffel Tower before we see the actual thing.

“We are making our houses ore open, everything in one big space. When we watched TV together or played musical instruments we needed rooms to contain the sound. Now everyone has ear buds on. It doesn’t matter that we’re in a shared space. We’re each in our own heads.”- Marta

“What type of ‘we’ is that? A royal we? If it’s the global, I’m concerned about people being civil. People’s eyes are on their phones. We need to be civil, though it’s hard. In 500 years, will we all be autistic? That’s how we’re evolving. In the singular ‘we’ I want to be non-violent, be tolerant of every being on earth.” – Eliot

 

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Trip Log – Day 297 – Fayetteville TN to Bell Buckle TN

to Bell BuckleAugust 28, 2016 – Partly cloudy, 85 degrees

Miles Today: 46

Miles to Date: 15,284

States to Date: 42

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Tennessee is beautiful place to cycle. The roads are in good shape, drivers are courteous, and the scenery is lovely. I spent the entire day on back roads.

IMG_6949As a cyclist, and lousy drinker, I opted for the ‘dry’ tour at the Jack Daniel’s Distillery in Lynchburg. Still, when our guide simply lifted the top from a fermenting vat the vapors rushed through my head and cleared my sinuses for the rest of the day. Old No.7 is a powerful brew.

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It’s rained, at least once, every day for the past three weeks. Today I was lucky that the shower occurred during my factory tour. The remaining miles to Bell Buckle were glorious. The landscape is so rich, green, and sculpted I felt like a figure in a toy train landscape.

IMG_6957Bell Buckle is a funky little town that’s transformed itself into an arts colony of sorts. My host, John, took me all over town and introduced me around to a city councilwoman, restaurant owner, and Cubs fan. Everyone is related, by blood or just by knowing each others’ business.

 

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