Trip Log – Day 397 – Ponte Vedra Beach FL to Jacksonville FL

to-jacksonvilleDecember 20, 2016 – Overcast, 50 degrees

Miles Today: 28

Miles to Date: 20,733

States to Date: 48

 img_8950I rode into Jacksonville, the United States’ geographically largest city, on a busy Tuesday morning along miles of commercial strip along US 90 west, across a narrow drawbridge into downtown, and through the downtrodden neighborhood around Edward Waters College. The city is sprawling and nondescript as everyone along my Florida route warned. Poetically, I should have completed my journey in St. Augustine, our nations oldest city. But Jacksonville is more appropriate. It is not a city of the past, it is a city of our present, and as such will have greater bearing on what tomorrow portends.

img_8946I arrived at the Amtrak station mid-morning, anchored my bike, and spent the day strolling the St. Johns River waterfront, eating Tuesday tacos and sharing a beer with old friends Jan and Mike Golan, who happened to be in the area for a warm weather break. After they dropped me off for my train, ruminations about my year plus experience began to fill my head.

I kept coming back to a quote I leaned at the Harn Art Museum in Gainesville a few days ago. Ron Garon, astronaut, travelled 71 million miles in space. When he returned he said, “Earth is a fragile oasis with many neighborhoods in a very big universe. We must see ourselves as fellow co-laborers on this planet in a war against hunger, poverty, and environmental destruction. The key is ‘we.’”

My journey has been a mere 20,000 miles and change, but I’ve also focused on the illusive ‘we’ that is our nation. ‘We the people’ are an incredible bunch, like no nation that’s ever existed. Yet we have so many challenges: among ourselves and amidst our seven billion neighbors. I’ve learned…

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Oops, the conductor just called my train. Time to roll north into the deep dark of this longest night of the year until we reach tomorrow. All aboard!

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Profile Response: Pam and Guy Wyche, Andalusia AL

HWWLT Logo on yellowPam and Guy Wyche attended separate boy’s and girl’s schools in their native Macon GA. Their parents, who shared adjacent desks at a local business, decided their children ought to meet, so Pam’s father invited Guy to go fishing. A few expeditions later, there was Pam. Fifty years later, it has proven a solid arranged marriage.

Guy inherited a crystal punch bowl from his grandmother. “As far as I know, it had never been used.” After they moved to southern Alabama in 1999, Pam decided to put it to good use. “I was a newcomer, still am by Alabama standards. Every year I have a punch bowl party. I invite all the newcomers in the area for coffee punch. They each bring a covered dish.” Over the years the range of ‘newcomers’ in this small img_8725town has spread to encompass the entire world. Pam has hosted women from Argentina, Bolivia, Korea, Israel, and India. “This a very nice neighborhood. We have neighbors who are Black, Iranian, Hindi, and Greek.” The melting pot that is America continues to stir, and in Alabama they rub shoulders over coffee punch.

 

screen-shot-2016-12-12-at-9-37-51-pmCoffee Punch

One gallon strong black coffee

Two pints half and half

One gallon vanilla ice cream, softened

Three Tablespoons vanilla extract

Adapted from Glorious Goodness Cookbook, published by the Junior League of Macon GA

How will we live tomorrow?

img_8724“I think tomorrow will be good. I don’t dwell on the politics, though I do worry about our new President. In the end that won’t matter. People are good and life will be good.” – Guy

Pam responded by presenting a portion of a Christmas letter she received from Claire Cox, a longtime friend from Macon:

‘Recently, we were privileged to hear Jannise Ray, a Georgia author, naturalist and environmental activist, speak at the Biennial Longleaf Alliance Conference. She responded to the question, “Are you hopeful for the future of our world in terms of the environment and our ability to care for, restore, and protect it.” With my apologies to Janisse for my inability to relate her beautiful words from memory, she responded she does not depend on hope. Hope rises and falls with losses and wins, with small steps forward and devastating blows to progress. Janisse said her work and life’s passion are based on love, for when you love something you can’t help but give yourself to it completely.

‘This thought resonates as 2016 draws to a close. We feel that this country, its environmental resources, people of color, those who have been displaced because of war and lack of opportunity, women, those created by God to love in ways our world shuns – in other words, people and places in this country that we love – have received a devastating blow. How do we celebrate the joy of Christmas when our hope has been shattered? At the thought of that question, Janisse’s words come and remind us that love is what Jesus brought to earth. Love is what he showed us in flesh and bone. Love is what he taught in action and word.

‘So, when elections, leaders, and even fellow Christians fail us…when pine tress die because rains don’t come…when jobs are uncertain because leadership changes…when people around us suffer discrimination, sexism, and lack of opportunity… We plant more trees. We search community to put love in action. We work with groups who protect our natural resources. We fight harder for justice in our courts. We find what God calls us to do.’

 

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Trip Log – Day 396 – St Augustine FL to Ponte Vedra Beach FL

to-ponte-vedra-beachDecember 19, 2016 – Fog, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 33

Miles to Date: 20,705

States to Date: 48

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Saint Augustine is a lovely town, even on a grey day. The Visitor’s Center gives a good overview of the city’s history. The architecture is rich and varied, the scale very approachable. My favorite building is the gorgeous Ponce de Leon Hotel, once the flagship of the Flager hospitality chain, now the home of Flager College, named for one of Florida’s early developers.

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The ride up A1A is particularly interesting two months after Hurricane Matthew. Along my route I’ve witnessed Katrina reconstruction ten years on, Sandy reconstruction four years later, and now more recent repairs. I pedaled past lines of pick-up trucks for carpenters, plumbers, plasterers, and painters; dump trucks carting beach sand, and bobcats spreading it all over. These ever frequent, ever more powerful weather events are a new economic engine.

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Profile Response: Laura Lee and Cara Hines, Abilene TX

HWWLT Logo on yellowIntuition and trust are not zero-sum traits; they are expanding blossoms. The more we exercise them, the deeper they root in our psyches, the greater they flower in our countenance. My rewarding experiences with so many people over the past year have swollen my trust in others. I hope I’ve enlarged their own trust in return. I am not naive or reckless, but time and again when I ‘assume best intent’ I am rewarded with genuine openness. Still, there are times when I push my own comfort envelope.

img_8007As I turned onto Woodridge Drive in Abilene, with its gentle curve, sumptuous trees, and expansive houses, it struck me as one of the most attractive residential streets in America. In the next moment I caught my breath – wait a second – I don’t even know my host’s name for the evening. Sure enough, my ‘host ‘ for the evening, Cara Hines, called to suggest I come to Abiliene instead of Anson to take part in the #downtownABI charrette. “Go by my mom’s house. You can shower there and she’ll bring you to the event. We’ll figure out where you’ll sleep later.”

img_8018I found the house and knocked on the door. I felt like a twelve year old when I greeted the blonde woman who opened the door the only way I knew: “Are you Cara’s mom?”

 

Laura Lee is used to taking in whomever Cara sends her way. Cara, a painter, interior designer, and gallery manager in her hometown of Abilene after living all over the world, has created a suite in her mother’s house for artists visiting this former railroad town that’s recreating itself as a center for art and culture.

screen-shot-2016-10-20-at-8-39-15-pmLaura Lee gave me a tour of Abilene in her 1966 Mustang convertible. We met Cara downtown and went out for dinner after the charrette. Cara’s husband Ernie met us for a nightcap. We sat up in Laura Lee’s kitchen ‘til after midnight, by which time we had shared much more than our names.

How will we live tomorrow?

img_8015“I enjoy, since I retire, being available to help other people, such as older people who need a ride to the beauty shop of a doctor’s appointment. I want to continue to help people the best way I can.” – Laura Lee

“I go back and forth between my idealism and my realism. My wish in life is that people would live their lives as if it were for another person. If we did that, we could care for Syrian refugees, we could care for all children, we would see other’s perspectives.

“I have a slogan that I like; I’m thinking of putting it on my office wall. ‘If it’s worth doing, it’s worth having fun doing.’ Everything has opportunity in it, but if you want to find a better way, have fun doing it.” – Cara

 

 

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Trip Log – Day 395 – Gainesville FL to St Augustine FL

to-st-augustineDecember 18, 2016 – Clouds, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 78

Miles to Date: 20,672

States to Date: 48

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Another day of terrific bicycle touring in a state I find much more bike friendly than anticipated. After two hearty bowls of steel cut oats, coffee and oranges right off the tree, I crossed the double helix pedestrian/bike bridge that connects Gainesville to the University of Florida medical center.

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I rode sixteen miles along the Hawthorne Trail, skirting Payne’s Prairie, ascending to hardwood hammock and rolling along cypress swamps.

From Hawthorne I enjoyed designated bike paths along FL 20 and 207 all the way to St. Augustine. The tailwind on my final push was handy since my hosts asked me arrive early to go to a party: always a good motivation to pedal hard.

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Jackie and Crunch are recent landlubbers; for three years they lived on a boat. The party was at their old marina. I learned about an entirely new way to live from well-tanned folks with few possessions and myriad tales of how they weathered Hurricane Matthew.

imgresAfter nightfall my hosts drove me through downtown St. Augustine’s famous Nights of Lights Festival. Jackie, who is a professional tour guide, provided a rich narrative to the sparking illumination.

 

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Profile Response: Andy Wilkinson, Southwest Collection, Lubbock TX

HWWLT Logo on yellow“Libraries are haphazard. They grow by circumstance.” Andy Wilkinson, playwright and Artist-in-Residence for ten years at Southwest Collection, acknowledged the logical and serendipitous specialties that comprise Texas Tech University’s archives.

Southwest Collection began with a regional focus: collecting ranching records. “People have been through here for 12,000 years, spring and fall. But there were no permanent records until the 1880’s. The earliest ranchers kept large ledger books, elegantly scripted that list every expenditure and income. The region grew slowly. “Llano Estacado is the largest flat plain on earth. Geologically, it is unchanged for over a million years. There is no live water on the Llano.” But the Ogallala Aquifer contains over 3,000 million-acre feet of water beneath the surface. Mechanical well drilling facilitated the City of Lubbock’s growth after its founding in 1909 and Texas Tech began in 1925. This is a region of recent history.

img_7957Ranch records are an important part of Southwest Collection, but the archives also contain other regional source material, including the archives for Texas Tech University and the now defunct Southwest Conference. Beyond that, Southwest Collections contains special collections that began with a particular donor and grew to international prominence. They hold the largest collection of Joseph Conrad first editions and largest collection of Turkish language folk tales in the world. But Southwest Collections is most renowned for The Vietnam Center and Archives. Started in 1989, in response to local Vietnam veterans, Southwest Collections began assembling Vietnam-era documents. Now it is now the world’s largest collection of information about the Vietnam Conflict, including ongoing oral histories from participants on all sides.

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Southwest Collections includes many non-print items: over a million photos, thousands of oral histories, recordings and digitized materials. Their1688 Coronelli Globe and the original four-track machine that Norman Petty used to record Buddy Holly in Clovis, NM are treated with equal respect. It’s all history.

How will we live tomorrow?

img_7951“I hope, carefully. I would like to say we will live carefully, but that’s not likely.

“I was an early adopter of technology, an early Facebook user and Facebook abandoner. Over the long haul the Internet is a leveler: more education is available to more people. But we have lost the ability to browse and all the collateral knowledge we get through catalog queries is lost. We may be the last generation that has paper source material. We don’t know how long digital files will last from an archive perspective. We know paper is more durable than analog tape, and that’s more durable than digital.

“We aren’t sure how we’re living today; we forget how we lived yesterday. We say we want democracy. Nobody wants democracy. Democracy is only this far away from a mob, depending on who has the pitchfork. We don’t want the rabble-rouser. We want the guy who’s a cut above.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 394 – Gainesville FL

to-gainesvilleDecember 17, 2016 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 10

Miles to Date: 20,594

States to Date: 48

Challenging things have occurred during this journey: gale winds, heavy rain, flat tires; but so far, never all at once. I was fortunate that yesterday’s flat was a slow leak that enabled me to roll to my host’s door in a university town full of cycle shops just before a layover day. First thing this morning I put Tom in shipshape, stopped by Super Cool Bikes, got another spare tube (I carry three) and topped off my tire pressure. Then I explored Gainesville.

img_8893The Florida Museum of Natural History has the largest butterfly collection in the world – more than nine million specimens plus a huge butterfly cage. It also contains timely exhibits about Florida’s ecology. I suppose it makes sense that the last area of our country to take its present shape will be among the first to shrink as climate change continues. Easy come easy go in the land of sinkholes and real estate hucksters.

img_8897The Harn Art Museum has intriguing exhibits despite few ‘name’ pieces. Shows about Frida Kahlo, African masks, The Guerilla Girls, and photojournalism of the Afghan war are all excellent. Of course I was drawn to Stuart Robert Purser’s whimsical painting of cyclists.

I rode through University of Florida campus on a sleepy Saturday; most students are already gone for break. Downtown was even sleepier, though Gainesville has a lovely public library.

screen-shot-2016-12-19-at-3-13-44-pmI headed to my next host’s early as she invited me for early supper before the Veterans for Peace Solstice Concert, an annual event that included some awesome musicians and one of the best Crosby Stills Nash and Young cover bands ever. Gotta love grey haired ex-hippies rocking out to ‘Carry On’ in the Unitarian Church.

Gainesville FL, Lawrence KS, Austin TX, Laramie WY: blue bubbles amid our nation’s political red sea.

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Profile Response: Karen Bone, Lubbock, TX

HWWLT Logo on yellowKaren Bone’s living room has two bookcases, well stocked. On one side of the sofa is a pile of books, actually three piles, maybe twenty in all. On the other side is another, equally impressive pile. “One stack is what I’m reading, the other stack is what I will tackle next.”

Tucked under a small table sit the equipment of Karen’s other passion – roller derby skates. Karen is a regular on the Lubbock women’s roller derby team and competes at the state-wide level. “My mom says, ‘why can’t you just play softball?’” but Karen loves the jostle of the rink and, considering the accolades hanging from her wall, she’s pretty good at it.

img_7942Karen’s a Victoria TX native who came to Lubbock when her husband came to graduate school at Texas Tech. Their marriage is over, but Karen remains, working as a research administrator, playing roller derby, and reading. “I’m don’t see myself here forever, but I like it well enough. I’m still learning a lot in my job. I stay in one place until I stop growing there.”

Karen is not just a voracious reader; she is an astute one. Throughout our evening’s conversation, a comment would trigger an idea, she would spring to the bookshelf, pull out a volume and reference an author far ranging as Tolstoy to Alan Alda. Since Karen received a Bachelor’s and Master’s in Psychology at Sam Houston State University in Huntsville, TX, she quotes foundational and contemporary psychologists with ease. She’s particularly keen on Daniel Goldman’s, Emotional Intelligence.

screen-shot-2016-12-12-at-8-37-57-pm“We’re not a balanced world. As a culture we’re pressed to over perform. In my life I have a 40 hour workweek that doesn’t require additional time and stress. It’s what I want. It’s either your money or your life. Put your money and energy into what is truly important.”

 

Karen and I went shopping for dinner. Karen shops at Market Place, an upscale alternative to Wal-Mart with a Whole Foods vibe. She made a list. She’s prudent but not frugal. “It costs a bit more, but I like the experience and the food selection.” While preparing dinner our discussion turned to money. She cited Barry Schwartz’s, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less and Elizabeth Warren’s The Two-Income Trap as her fiscal guides. “I acquire things with an eye toward what they cost and how important they are to me. We all need to determine our social value of money; do we want simg_7943ecurity or travel or being out of debt?” At age 32, Karen is almost finished paying off her college debt. “I pay a plane ticket a month to pay down my debt.” Within a year, she will be debt-free and plans to put that money to actual plane tickets.

Karen is the only person I’ve met who found virtue in her student debt. “I’m thankful for my student debt because it made me come to terms with budgeting and money.”

How will we live tomorrow?

img_7948“I would like to think we will get more open to each other. We are too isolated. I went to San Francisco and met some people from Argentina. I travelled to Argentina to see them. My parents worried, but I met more great people there. These experiences helped me be more open.

“If we follow Trump we will be so deep in fear we can lose our vulnerability with each other. I like what Brene Brown says, ‘When we’re fear driven we don’t know the actual story that’s happening.’

“Our nature is, ‘group in / group out’. With so much global communication we have greater capability to fear and greater capability to exist in isolation. If you travel, you expand your tribe. You can find kinship with other places.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 393 – Mayo FL to Gainesville FL

to-gainesvilleDecember 16, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 62

Miles to Date: 20,584

States to Date: 48

After eleven hours of sleep plus a pot of coffee plus a stack of pancakes with a side of bacon, I was ready to roll out of sweet Mayo into a day full of modest surprises.

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Crossing the Suwannee River triggered my repertoire of Stephen Foster songs. But I did not expect that Suwanee County would also offer up fifteen miles of dedicated bike path parallel to US 27.

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My route took me across I-75 three times. The first was the busy intersection with US 441outside of Alachua. I figured I was in for miles sprawl. Instead, my second crossing was a mere hiccup on NW 140th St, a lovely road lined with stately farms, elegant fences, and rolling pasture. Crossing number three on Millhopper Road was even less obtrusive. I rode through San Felasco Hammock State Preserve, miles of canopy road with another dedicated bike path.

img_8887Several people have cautioned me that Florida has the highest cyclist accident rate in the nation. But so far, I have found the state not only physically more beautiful than I expected, but cyclist friendly as well. Let’s hope that continues as I approach the busy Atlantic coast.

They’ve also warmed me that because Florida has no vehicle inspection requirements, shoulder debris causes a high number of flats. I got my third flat in four days just before I reached my hosts’ house. Not all surprises are good.

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Profile Response: Grant Tipton, Lubbock TX

HWWLT Logo on yellowWhen Grant Tipton invited me to stay with him he sent two instructions. “Bring me something to stick to my refrigerator.” That was easy; a yellow magnet man with my card. “If you want to go shooting, get here by five.” What did that mean? Paintball? Darts? Quail? I didn’t inquire further. I just showed up before five.

 

img_7936Grant’s a big gun fan about to take his concealed carry test. We drove to a friend’s ranch and he shot a couple hundred rounds. He’s also a bike mechanic at a local shop who owns eleven bikes, a graduate student in natural resource management specializing in controlled fires, a big-time vaper, a couchsurfing host who’s surpassed the one hundred references mark, and a home brewer with five beer taps in his backyard workshop / man cave. We tried them all before he hit the sack, sometime after two a.m.

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Like everyone from these parts, Grant’s a Texan first, and also an American. He’s also a patient and generous man, a heck of a lot of fun, and more complex than any one of his interests would indicate.

How will we live tomorrow?

img_7926“The planet is going to run out of resources. We’ll all have to gang up on spaceships and colonize new planets. I think we’ll be on Mars by 2050. That will be the first experiment and we’ll go from there.

“We have a 1,000 year lifespan on this planet. Unless we get to the precipice where people change the way we live and the way we use energy. I’m not saying conspiracy theory – the damage to the planet is real. In 200 years industrialization has altered the earth.

“There is hope. Renewable resources and nuclear fusion, they could extend life here. It has to be a global effort. But people don’t feel accountable. The timeframe is so great. We think about our children, our grandchildren, but we don’t think 200 years. The impact one individual can have seems insignificant.

“I want to be optimistic, but it’s difficult.”

 

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