Trip Log – Day 375 – N Little Rock AR to Little Rock AR

to-little-rockNovember 28, 2016 – Rain, 55 degrees

Miles Today: 32

Miles to Date: 19,386

States to Date: 47

 img_8512The sky was heavy, the forecast dark, so I slid through downtown Little Rock before the showers began. When they arrived, they came in torrents. Despite refuge under an Interstate bridge, I was soaked when I reached the Arkansas Food Bank for my first conversation of the day. More pedaling in the rain. My feet squeaked with each step as I entered Loco Luna for lunch and my meeting with Matt from Sheriff’s Ranch. At my afternoon tour of Heifer International the accommodating receptionist let me drape my sopping jacket, gloves and hat over the floor grates. It was the kind of day when people were either empathetic or dismayed by a guy on a bike.

img_8539By the time I completed my three conversations, the rain stopped and bits of sun peaked between the clouds. I rode over the pedestrian bridge and along the north side of the Arkansas River Trail all the way to Big Dam Bridge to my hosts west of town.

 

imgres imgres-1Terrie and Dean Turner elevate hosting cyclists to a whole new level. Terrie served an array of hors d’oeuvres while I washed my clothes. Then they treated me to dinner at Doe’s, a Little Rock institution where tamales with chili, gargantuan steaks, tasty salads, and heaps of fries, potatoes and toast are served up family style. Our conversation was rich and satisfying as our meal.

 

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Profile Response: Jonise Roberts, Place Bridge Academy Denver CO

HWWLT Logo on yellowWhenever I meet someone from Haiti, even for the first time, it feels like a reunion. There’s a sympathetic sensibility that bonds all of us who’ve come to love The Magic Island and its people.

Jonise Robert’s father received political asylum in the US in the 1990’s. A few years later he was able to bring his wife and two of his three children to the United States. Jonise grew up in Miami, graduated from college, dated women as well as men. She met David, a Marine, online. They courted and married. One night, lying in bed, he confessed, “I have something to tell you.” She replied, “I know. You’re a woman.” Simple as that. David is now Dawn. They’re still married. Jonise loved David, now she loves Dawn. Whatever comes her way, Jonise glides with the flow. So Haitian.

images-1They moved to Denver by choice. “We lived in a camp ground for a few weeks until we got jobs.” They love the city, which she feels is more accepting of an interracial same-sex couple than Florida. Jonise was considering law school until she began working for Goodwill Industries, which contracts to the Denver Public Schools for special teaching services. Now, Jonise teaches eight graders at Place Bridge Academy, a refugee immigrant K-8 school, a transition course to prepare them for high school. “I teach them everything I wish I learned when I came to the United States. Not just academics, but mediation, advocacy, and self-awareness.”

imgres-2Jonise and I met during lunch; she shared her diri et sos poi with me. I laughed that she prepared it American–style; she placed a piece of fish on top of the rice and bean paste. In Haiti, that would be an exceptional treat.

Jonise returned to Haiti last summer, her first visit since leaving in 2003. She realized it would be difficult to live there again; her mindset has become too American. “The international aid community keeps Haiti in a subordinate role in the world. The philanthropy keeps people fed, but also keeps them down. Although we are no longer slaves, we are enslaved. If you give, then give. Give without conditions.”

Jonise gave me a tight hug before her next class. Actually, during less than an hour together, she gave me three hugs. So Haitian.

How will we live tomorrow?

screen-shot-2016-11-04-at-3-20-06-pm“I think there’s a lot of promise with the next generation. I have experienced a lot of compassion. I ask my students what they want to do to advance the world. They discuss GMO’s, transsexual rights, bias, issues we didn’t even now about at their age.”

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Trip Log – Day 374 – Conway AR to N Little Rock AR

to-little-rockNovember 27, 2016 – Overcast, 50 degrees

Miles Today: 46

Miles to Date: 19,354

States to Date: 47

‘We the People.’ What does that mean? The first display of the Visitor’s Center at Little Rock Central High School, site of the 1957 violence and eventual admittance of nine African-American students to the previously all-white school, explains how the first three words of our constitution were not written to encompass all the people living in our country, just white men of property.

img_8501The exhibits go on to describe events in Little Rock surrounding school desegregation as well as other civil rights issues in our nation.

I pedaled over to the Clinton Library, the eleventh and last Presidential Library I will visit on this journey, where the staff is extremely friendly to odd looking cyclists and the message of inclusiveness rings loud; testaments from Nelson Mandela, Jordan’s King Hussein and Israel’s Yitzhak Rabin.

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The Constitution goes on to declare, ‘in order to from a more perfect union.’ Interesting that it does not declare a perfect union. It acknowledges that we are striving for perfection, which will likely never be obtained.

img_8510We recently elected a new President, a man who did not receive the most votes and whose support varied wildly across demographics of race, income and education. Our rules of election are clear, if illogical, and so Donald Trump is our President-elect. He represents a profile of ‘we the people’ that more closely resembles our forefathers. Whether you think that is good or ill depends on how strictly you interpret the Constitution versus how much you value the struggle for civil rights over the past 200 years by those left out of the original ‘we.’

Here in Arkansas, where people either loathe or love his opponent, Hillary Clinton, so strongly, the constitutional ‘we’ gets drowned out by personality. Too bad, because I believe how we define ‘we’ is important. If it doesn’t include all of us yet, we’ll just have to keep striving for that more perfect union.

 

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Profile Response: Ellie Bontrager, Limon, CO

HWWLT Logo on yellowEllie Bontrager is a lovely person and great conversationalist. I arrived at her house with a flat tire; one of those pesky Prairie burrs had lodged in my front tire. She sat on the patio where the horizontal sun still warmed. We chatted while I repaired my bike. Then our conversation moved indoors, continued until bedtime, and resumed in the morning.

Ellie has been offering her two basement bedrooms to couchsurfers, warmshower cyclists, and AirBNB guests for over ten years. “People are surprised I invite strangers into my home. You take a risk every time, but that risk is so small, and the advantages are so great.” She showed me a photo of her husband and two young men – a photo from the 1980’s before the Internet formalized things like couchsurfing. The two Israelis from a kibbutz stayed with them in Colorado Springs for three months over thirty years ago. Recently, Ellis hosted a young man from Israel who tracked down one of those long ago guests. Ellie rekindled their friendship. Invite someone to share your house and the world becomes a smaller, warmer place.

img_7520Ellie and her husband raised their six children in Limon. Warren was a security guard in the local prison, then the maintenance director and finally the woodshop instructor. The woodshop program was dismantled during a round of cost cutting. After serving for 20+ years Warren retired with his pension. He recently became an RTD (Rapid Transit Denver) bus driver. He lives in Denver six days a week and returns to Limon on his ‘weekend’ – whatever day he has off.

With all six children grown, Ellis took a part-time job as Post Mistress in Agate, a dwindling town twenty miles north whose only remaining services are a school with about 25 students and a tiny post office. “There are forty mailboxes for local residents. I work noon to four six days a weeks. Everything is manual; there are no computers. I like getting to know the locals. Some days I am busy. Some days I have no customers at all.”

How will we live tomorrow?

img_7514“I worry about where we’re going. There is too much government. The government was created to protect our borders. Now it is in every part of our lives.”

___________

I don’t usually explore the relationship between people’s life story and their response to my question, but I was intrigued how a family whose life work has always been in the public sector had such a dark view of our government. Since Ellie is such an open person, I inquired about the seeming disconnection.

“I can’t explain it. 35% of Americans work for the government, including me and me husband. It’s too much; the government’s reach is too deep. But we don’t know how to pull it back.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 373 – Russellville AR to Conway AR

to-conwayNovember 26, 2016 – Overcast, 45 degrees

Miles Today: 48

Miles to Date: 19,308

States to Date: 47

The straight grey line of US 64 east parallels the railroad track from Little Rock to Fort Smith. The trains roll past, long lines of flat beds and box cars and oil cars. Without fanfare, the last one whooshes past and the landscape turns still again.

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I long for a caboose. I have not seen a single one linked to a train my entire journey. Today, cabooses are artifacts; stationary, decorative anchors in self-conscious towns whose depots are ice cream parlors; or rusting hulks left to the elements. The trains they used to terminate now flail along the tracks without any punctuation, let alone the exclamation point produced by a vintage red caboose.

We are a nation of busyness and business. We’ve stripped our landscape of serendipitous delight. I’m sure it’s an inefficient hassle to hitch a useless car to the end of a snake of money. But every meal deserves dessert, and every train deserves a caboose. img_7908Not because the train needs it, not because the economy needs it, because humans need it. The caboose satisfies our craving for romance and whimsy of travel. Cabooses balance all the purpose that precedes them. We don’t need cabooses; we just like them. Our enjoyments are what elevate us above mere machines. And there’s no price tag on the joy a caboose could produce on a day grey as today.

 

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Profile Response: Justin Eagleboy, Burlington CO

HWWLT Logo on yellowJustin Eagleboy represents the traditional values of the American West better than anyone I’ve met in a cowboy hat. Justin and his three sisters were home schooled in western Colorado. His mother died when he was eleven. Their mother’s death formed a deep bond among the siblings. “It’s too bad my mother died, but I can’t imagine not having this bond with my sisters.” Only a true stoic could find light in his mother’s death.

Justin went on to community college at sixteen, made what he calls, ‘life mistakes’ and wound up in Colorado’s eastern plains; not a place any mountain man would choose, though Justin admits that the sunsets are beautiful. He met his wife Jess at a restaurant she managed. He came in night after night. “I finally broke her down and she went out with me.” Now that they’re married, Jess is surprised he’s such a homebody. “I don’t much like going out. She thought I went out all the time, but I was just going out to get her.”

imgresThe couple lives in a 31-foot airstream trailer with Justin’s daughter from an earlier relationship. “I like the idea of being a minimalist. It’s just hard to implement. Jess’ brother parked his car out our way. Now, we’re storing stuff in it.”

Justin works construction. He specializes in concrete counters and would like to develop that niche, though not to the degree his current job demands. “Americans work so much. I work for a boss who has a house to pay for and an RV to pay for. We could work a bit less if we didn’t have so many things to pay for.”

He often works on what he calls, ‘million-dollar poor farmer’s houses.’ “There is a culture of complaining that goes with farming; that things in the past were always better. They all complain they have no money; that they suffer to feed the world. We just built a huge garage for a farmer to store his motorhome. It was ridiculous, to build a house for a house on wheels. Americans, they have no idea what to be afraid of.”

Justin is skeptical of the cultural assumption that we work full time until a certain age, and then enjoy life. He wants a better mix. “Americans don’t take a lot of vacations. Then they do extravagances. They splurge because they don’t do it often.” Justin’s travelled all over the US and throughout the world. “Travel is it’s own education.”

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As I talk with people about tomorrow some debate whether the human propensity to plan sets us apart from other animals, but no one articulated the differences as well as Justin. “We are not the only creatures who plan. Other animals plan – they anticipate what they need to survive. But humans plan beyond survival. We take risks, we do things that are counterintuitive in order to move forward.”

How will we live tomorrow?

screen-shot-2016-11-04-at-3-01-37-pm“Hopefully better than we do now. I know it will be better. It’s generational. I can’t identify with Donald Trump saying America needs to get better. It’s already good and getting better all the time. The younger people will capitalize on good ideas.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 372 – Fort Smith AR to Russellville AR

to-russellvilleNovember 25, 2016 – Overcast, 50 degrees

Miles Today: 81

Miles to Date: 19,260

States to Date: 47

Back on the road again, fueled by Thanksgiving leftovers, including my friend Paul’s sweet potatoes with pecan and maple syrup. Vegetable or dessert? Who cares, it’s delicious.

fort-chafee

Fort Chaffee is mostly decommissioned but still has rows of classic barracks.

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I had not anticipated how much Arkansas feels like the Deep South. Confederate icons abound. But some places celebrate change. Charleston AR was the first city in the South to desegregate their public schools, the first year after Brown vs. Board of Education, apparently with little turmoil.

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Stone buildings abound throughout the Ozarks, in the foothills as well, though many are in poor condition.

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Paris Arkansas, seat of Logan County: more beer than wine; more chicken fried steak than beef Bourgogne; more gun and pawnshops than patisseries.

lake-dardenelle

The clouds opened up for an hour or so, in time for the sun to sparkle off of Lake Dardenelle.

 

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Profile Response: Lynn Schneider, Garden of Eden, Lucas KS

HWWLT Logo on yellowNothing keeps a man vital more than a consuming obsession except, perhaps, a wife a third his age. S.P. Dinsmoor had both. The Civil War veteran and pioneer to the Kansas plains began building his elaborate home in Lucas, KS at age 62. A consummate showman, he gave tours to visitors who stopped on the train from Kansas City to Denver. The first floor rooms have elaborate woodwork and boasted the first electric lights in the area. His family didn’t occupy the tourist level; they lived in the basement and slept upstairs.

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After the house was complete he transformed the yard. First, sculpting an arbor with Adam and Eve entitled ‘Garden of Eden.’ Then depicting other Biblical stories. Eventually he cast populist figures, including a battered farmer being crucified by a banker, an attorney, and a politician. But the guy had a sense of humor – he depicted himself taking money from laborers, since he continued to charge people to see his creation.

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At age 81 Dinsmoor married a young immigrant in her twenties. They had two children. He died at age 92, though his widow continued to live at Garden of Eden, and earn her livelihood from tours, until the 1950’s. Their two children are considered the youngest children of any Civil War veteran in our country; Dinsmoor’s son served in Vietnam.

screen-shot-2016-11-04-at-2-49-06-pmThe Garden of Eden became a curiosity until the Kohler Foundation, which is focused on preserving America folk art, invested in restoring the place in the early 2000’s and spurred Lucas’ claim as our Grassroots Arts Capital.

 

Lynn Schneider moved to Lucas in 2006. “I am from Lebanon, KS, which is the geographical center of the 48 states. I saw what happened when that attraction lost its appeal. We lost our motel and our cafe.” She gave me a tour through Dinsmoor’s house and the Garden of Eden, culminating in the mausoleum where Dinsmoor’s mummified body is on display: a showman to the end.

How will we live tomorrow?

img_7435“I don’t really know. I live day to day. These small towns are struggling.”

 

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Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

How will we live tomorrow?

“We will either live tomorrow or we will merely exist. It is our choice.”

Bobby, Owner of District Cycles, Perkins OK

How will we live tomorrow?

“It’s always a goal to wake with an open heart.”

Lynn, California transplant, Perkins OK

How will we live tomorrow?

“Well, last week changed everything.”

Michael, overweight cyclist with heart problems, Tulsa OK

How will we live tomorrow?

“That’s a tricky question.”

Sherry, ear plugs and smiles, Wagoner OK

How will we live tomorrow?

“Honestly, I can’t think of anything right now. I’m getting toward the end of my shift and I’m tired. I do know what I’ll do the rest of today: go home and study and take a nap.”

Kaitlin, Wal-Mart Neighborhood Market cashier and English student, Bentonville AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“We just have to live tomorrow like its our last. Grab the bull by the horns and do what you need to do.”

Zack, Harry Potter as a college student, Bentonville AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“Oh my god, that is a deep question… want my true thoughts or what I want?

“We are near the breaking point and will return to our origins. I think we will return to a time when we look each other in the eye and trade stories. I hope the time will come when we communicate as people and not as email addresses. Coffee is the medium that brings people together to talk.”

Mauricio, owner of 211 Coffee, Bentonville AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“I moved to a farm. I’m keeping chickens and pigs and sheep. Everyone says it’s great but I’m not sure. I used to live in downtown Bentonville.”

Nancy, divorced after 45 years of marriage, Bentonville AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“I hope we live peaceably and with respect; that we make an effort to be respectful. I have aspirational hopes for tomorrow.”

Beth Beck, retired Wal-Mart Sustainability Coordinator, Bentonville AR

“Wal-Mart was getting pressure from shareholders on practices regarding environmental regulations and human resources. First, the company was like, maybe this will help. Then they realized it was saving money.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“Can I get back to you on that?”

Ken Leonard, Arkansas master Naturalist, Bentonville AR

“We transform people to be environmentalists who never thought that could do that. Newton’s Second Law is true in nature as it is in physics: for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“One way we can live tomorrow is to give everyone respect and a chance.”

Chris, ear plugs and lip tattoo, Fort Smith AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“Have a blessed day.”

Jessica, giant smile, Fort Smith AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“I don’t know because no one told us what to do.”

Karsten Templeton, age 4, Bentonville AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“It’s complicated. I can’t think about it without time.”

Karen Hoffman, florist, Fort Smith AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“For me it will be like yesterday, maybe with more of a smile.”

Nancy, Pedaler’s Pub, Bentonville AR

 

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Trip Log – Day 371 – Fayetteville AR to Fort Smith AR

to-fort-smithNovember 21, 2016 – Sunny, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 76

Miles to Date: 19,179

States to Date: 47

 img_8428Forecast tomorrow is strong winds from the south and rain. So, I pedaled through the University of Arkansas campus, ducked out of Fayetteville a day ahead of my plan and pedaled to Fort Smith during another Indian summer day. So glad I did as there were enough challenges navigating the Ozarks even with benign nature. By late afternoon the winds had shifted from the east and I could feel the rain coming.

 

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I will be staying with close friends in Fort Smith for three days for the Thanksgiving holiday. I wish everyone a sumptuous Thanksgiving celebration. May we all be grateful for blessings to numerous to count.

 

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