Trip Log – Day 327 – Denver CO

to-denverSeptember 27, 2016 – Sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 7

Miles to Date: 17,059

States to Date: 45

img_7534A beautiful day to roll through Denver neighborhoods, visit Observatory Park and Place Bridge Academy, an innovative school for newly arrived immigrants run by the Denver Public Schools, before taking Tom in for a major service.

 

 

imagesLike Seattle, Austin, and Nashville, Denver is a city growing on steroids. Folks say 1,000 people move here a week. The reaction among long-time residents like my sister is to avoid traffic: walk more places. Great idea! We walked to a local restaurant, Pioneer, and sat on the roof deck enjoying cheap draft beer and $5 Chicken Burritos with our friends Lisa and Bob. A very satisfying rest day indeed.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Profile Response: Laura Cadenhead and Mike Sheehan Decatur GA

HWWLT Logo on yellow“The Civil War was the first time the 1% coerced the 99% into doing something stupid, based on the fear that they would be worse off if things changed. At least the 99% of poor whites were above the slaves.”

The economic, social, and political divide between our nation’s urban and rural areas is arguably greater than the north/south or east/west, or coastal/heartland divisions. That is certainly true in Georgia, where rural areas and metropolitan Atlanta manifest very different sensibilities. Hard to imagine anyone in the rural South echoing Michael’s perspective on the Civil War.

imagesLaura Cadenhead and Michael Sheehan are urban Southerners. Laura’s lived in Atlanta her entire life; Mike grew up in Houston and lived other places before settling here. Mike’s an architect who left the boom and bust profession in the 2008 recession and is now a property claims adjuster. Laura was a special ed teacher. For the past four years, she’s ‘taught’ from home in Georgia’s burgeoning online public school system. Yet Mike’s passion is promoting biochar, an agricultural catalyst that reinvigorates soil chemistry and improves agricultural yields; a carbon negative material that actually absorbs CO2; while Laura dreams of creating a cooperative housing and workshop space on Atlanta’s Belt Line, a pedestrian / bike route that is linking inner city areas that were long divided by rail lines.

imgresLaura taught me a new word: narcotizing;’ a term she uses to describe the mind-numbing effect of our screen-based lives, especially over exposure to television. Television provides escape while simultaneously reinforcing the sense that we have no control over our lives and conflating opinion with truth. “Humans have great capacity to find truth in what we believe.”

 

 

How will we live tomorrow?

img_6778“That seems so straightforward to me. I have many thoughts about it, and I assume many people are thinking about it. To me, it’s an ongoing conversation about how aging and living will be with my friends. There’s some creative ideas, some settling for less, some adjustments. I see people living together, more communally.” – Laura

“A developer I work with wants to build eight duplex units for cohousing near the Belt Line. The Millenials will have less opportunity than we had. They will live by a different model. But he cannot get any financing.” – Mike

“I envision is what I call Cash-in (a hybrid of our last names). Cash-in is a place on the Belt Line for bicycle tourism near the West End, where there will be a direct connection to the airport. I see upstairs as a communal living space and downstairs as a workshop with gardens beyond. I have an image of a house shaped like a horseshoe.” – Laura

“If we are going to live into many tomorrows, we are going to have to live differently. Live in smaller spaces, get over the petroleum trip, and focus out seven generations.” – Mike

“We will live more innovatively, more creatively. We are narcotizing ourselves with the TV, the iPad the cell phone, anything that takes over our attention. We have lost our way like the bees who collapse the hive. We’ve lost our navigational skills.” – Laura

 

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 326 – Limon CO to Denver

to-denverSeptember 26, 2016 – Sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 95

Miles to Date: 17,052

States to Date: 45

Cycle touring doesn’t get any better – even with twenty miles on the Interstate!

img_7518

Google mapped me 116 miles to Denver – too much for one day. But my experienced warmshowers host in Limon mentioned that it’s not only legal to ride the Interstate shoulder from Limon to Agate, but an easy chore along vast prairie with evergreen storm breaks that leads to Colorado 40. Her guidance shed twenty miles from my route. With ideal temperature and wind, pedaling all the way to Denver was easy.

img_7529The ten-mile stretch on Highway 36 between Bennett and Watkins is a gentle roll into Denver’s valley; a breathtaking expanse of glowing grassland set against distant purple mountains.

 

Denver is one of the easiest large cities to navigate on a bike. The Highline Trail is a 73-mile near continuous loop – the cyclist’s equivalent of a Beltway. It took me from Aurora, east and a bit north of the city, all the way around to the southeast sector of Denver proper.

I arrived at my sister’s for a two-day respite in time to watch the first Presidential debate and subsequent spin. The people I meet in real life are so much nicer than the talking heads on television.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Profile Response: Jon Pierson Athens, GA

HWWLT Logo on yellowJon Pierson is social glue; he brings people together. When I arrived at his apartment in Athens he explained that he had only lived there two weeks and capitalized on my visit to organize a couchsurfing meet-up with other area hosts. “I’ve lived in ten states and like transitioning. I’m good a meeting new people.” We drove through a torrential rainstorm to the HiLo Lounge in Normaltown where a half dozen other couchsurfing hosts, most of whom didn’t know each other, sat around a corner table with appetizers and beers. Some, like Jon, were newcomers to Athens to attend University of Georgia. Others, like Cassie, were lifelong locals. “This is the way Athens is, people like to show up.”

 

Jon, 33, is an outdoors guy; a triathlete and long distance cyclist. Prior to coming to Athens, Jon was the arborist for the power company in Chattanooga, TN where he enjoyed being outdoors and mediating between the utility, residents, and nature in locating power lines. This underscores his misgivings about the abstract nature of his three-year master of Landscape Architecture program at University of Georgia. “I’m more of a life learner. I like to get my hands dirty.”

imgres imgres-1

 

Jon’s primary lure to Athens is his son Ben, a charming five-year-old whose mother moved to Athens over a year ago. The trip from Chattanooga to see his son every other week wore Jon down. He looked for work in Athens and then decided to return to school instead. Now, he can see Ben during the week as well as on weekends. “Ben gives me a level of happiness, of purpose, I never had before.” Ben’s parents were never married, so their parenting is negotiated rather than divorce decreed. Jon pays regular support and has a comfortable relationship with his former girlfriend. “I never felt a lifelong commitment to her. I feel that for our son. I am the child of divorced parents. When I get married I want to be married for the relationship, not the child.”

How will we live tomorrow?

img_6759“My condensed version is ‘healthier, happier, and better.’ I used to live for myself. Now, as a father, I have to provide. You have to invent your own happiness. It’s not a ‘we’ thing. If I can create my own happiness I can help others be happier. It can be so simple. When you let another driver in your lane you are being kind. If you want more kind in your life, you have to put kind out.”

 

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 325 – Burlington CO to Limon CO

to-limon-coSeptember 25, 2016 – Sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 79

Miles to Date: 16,957

States to Date: 45

img_7507

img_7512First came 36 gorgeous miles along US 24 West, out of sight and mind of the Interstate. Then, 24 merged with I-70 and the pavement ended. I pounded 31 miles of gravel.

My head bobbled long after I got to Limon. Question is, after a solid sleep will I be able to overcome the human propensity to dwell on the negative, or will I be able to retrieve the sweet meditation of those first gentle miles?

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Profile Response: Clifford and Will, New Ellenton SC

HWWLT Logo on yellowWill snatched the 2002 issue of Klipspringer’s Magazine that rated all the states in terms of their tax burden on retirees from his coffee table to demonstrate how he chose to move to South Carolina after retiring from IBM in Essex Junction VT. After fourteen years, he keeps it handy. “More than fifty percent of my retirement income went to taxes in Vermont. I had to leave.” He bought five acres with a house near Walterboro. A few years later, his long-term friend and frequent housemate Cliff retired from Grand Union. They decided to buy a place together, moving upcountry toward Aiken to put more distance between home and hurricanes.

img_6716South Carolina is a traditionally low-tax state with a warm climate that provides additional tax breaks for retirees and veterans. Military people retire here in droves.

Cliff and Will, in their seventies, spent their entire careers in Vermont. During the 970’s and 1980’s Cliff was in the vanguard of creating a ‘visible’ social life for gay Vermonters. “We put on a New Year’s Eve party at the Sheraton in Burlington. Within a few years, it was the best party in town.” Many of those activities have disappeared in the age of social media. Will always worked third shift so he could enjoy the outdoors, but the winters got hard.

In South Carolina they have a mix of gay and straight friends. “Churches are everywhere here, but they don’t mean a thing. Everyone knows everyone else and everybody is nice to everybody. Most people think we’re partners, even though we’re not.”

img_6722They also have physical comfort and material wealth well beyond what they could afford in the Northeast; a 2500 square foot house on five acres with outbuildings for Cliff’s leaded glass shop and Will’s gardening as well as walking paths through their private woods. The entire place is festooned with ornaments they’ve collected over decades of travel. We took a twilight walk and heard stories behind decorative object that could fill galleries.

Will’s time is fully engaged in maintaining and improving their property. Besides his regular leaded glass commissions, Cliff also works part time, teaching medical students in Augusta interview and exam techniques. He is appalled at the careless way most medical staff take blood pressure. Putting the cuff over clothing, misaligning the meter, overpumping the balloon, asking questions while doing the test, are all factors that can elevate blood pressure readings. Cliff and Will each check their own blood pressure at home, and have consistent data that’s allowed them to wean off their blood pressure medicine. “Millions of people are on high blood medication that don’t have to be. That’s why the US is fifteenth in healthcare in the world but first in cost.”

How will we live tomorrow?

screen-shot-2016-09-23-at-8-45-38-pm“I guess no different than I did today. I’m pretty happy doing what I do.” – Cliff

 

 

screen-shot-2016-09-23-at-8-45-15-pm“I’ll keep doing what I’m doing. Not much changes for me. I weigh the same I did forty years ago. When I was in Walterboro people came to my house with church pamphlets. I told them not to bother; I wasn’t going to change my ways.

“Wait a minute. There’s a trick here. The question is ‘we’, not ‘you.

“Hmmmm, I don’t think that changes my answer.” – Will

 

 

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 324 – Colby KS to Burlington CO

to-burlington-coSeptember 24, 2016 – Sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 70

Miles to Date: 16,878

States to Date: 45

img_7473

Whoa, guy. Haven’t I already been in Colorado? Don’t have I only three states left? Shouldn’t I start skedaddling home?

img_7482

Although I plan to cycle in all 48 contiguous states, my agenda is more complex. There are people and places I want to see that just can’t get covered in one pass. So, I am returning to Colorado with the objective of visiting my sister and brother in Denver, and then my nephew in Pueblo. From there, I plan to tour the juicy parts of New Mexico I missed in round one – Taos, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque. I hope to spin across the plains one last time to visit Levelland, Texas, my home from VISTA days. In about a thousand miles I will resume counting states when I enter Oklahoma.

img_7487

Not all who wander are lost; I have become an expert wanderer.

img_7491 img_7492

 

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Profile Response: Donald Scott, Sweetgrass Products, Charleston SC

HWWLT Logo on yellowHail, mail, bail and jail. The four corners of the law come together at Charleston’s historical center, the intersection of Meeting and Broad. Simply cross the street at St. Michael’s church to the main Post office, the US Courthouse, the Probate Court, and City Hall. It’s not an intersection that’s been particularly kind to Charleston’s African-American citizens, but these days Donald Scott, Gullah basket weaver, owns the real estate. You can find him there on Tuesdays through Sunday weaving tight baskets and trinkets with sweetgrass, bullrush and long pine needles. He also makes palmetto roses and crucifixes.

img_6661Donald explained the weaving process and showed off his most challenging wares. “Oval baskets are the most difficult. You have to hold the length tight when you make the bend. Keep it tight until you have a dozen or more bends.” Most of his items are much smaller; key chains and bells and small bowls that sell for under $50. His most elaborate item is a basket with elephant ear feet and a huge handle. He asks $775 for that. A lot for a street merchant, but less than half what a similar basket fetches at the Charleston Preservation Society store a few blocks away.

I asked Donald what the city required in rent or permits to set up shop at this historic corner. “Nothing. They want me here. I am part of Charleston’s heritage.”

When he’s not weaving Donald drives a school bus in North Charleston, where he lives.

img_6713 img_6773Charles made me a gift of a Gullah woven keychain to which I added my sole key and hung around my neck. I’ll take a bit of the sea islands with me as I head west.

 

How will we live tomorrow?

img_6663“Only way I now to live tomorrow is through Christ. I have plans to be there. I have given my heart to the Lord.”

 

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 323 – Hill City KS to Colby KS

to-colby-ksSeptember 23, 2016 – Sun, 85 degrees

Miles Today: 66

Miles to Date: 16,808

States to Date: 45

img_7463I love the Plains. They teach you not to take anything for granted. When you think the world is flat, it gets flatter. When you think the world is windy, it gets windier. Even when the wind is with you, there is so much of it that you have to ride full grip. You sail with the gust and then, the gust disappears and you wobble.

In theory, I had an easy day. Southerly crosswinds that often allowed me to tack to advantage. I happened by Cobblestone Ranch, which former state archeologist Don Rowlinson has taken on as a personal project. He gave me a great tour and told stores of the English immigrants who raised sheep in this area. We could have talked into the afternoon except that I had miles to go to Hoxie for lunch. I found JD’s, the local hangout, packed for Friday lunch: salad bar and potato bar with chili and all sorts of extras, but not much conversation. People don’t talk with strangers when a place is buzzing.

img_7466 img_7467

Thirty-five miles to Colby on a full belly seemed a fine way to pass the afternoon. The forecast called for a cold front with rain overnight, but there was no sign of it in the cloudless sky. Still, the wind knew something was brewing. Despite an adequate shoulder and good pavement, I fought to keep Tom steady against the tailwinds of the grain trucks that passed in my direction, their comrades head blasts when they roared east, and the gusts topping thirty miles an hour that hit me from the south, or southeast, or southwest, or whatever direction confused things the most.

img_7468

At one point a string of trucks jangled me, so I stopped for a break. I stilled myself. Back in the saddle I got better at gauging my weight against the wind. Three miles outside of town the highway dipped through a gully where the gale was so strong I leaned Tom at least thirty degrees into the blast. The kind of day I am so glad I ride a Surly.

img_7472

I arrived in town shortly after four and took a room at the first basic motel I passed. I had made good time, but I was wiped. I just wanted to be out of the wind.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 322 – Lucas KS to Hill City KS

to-hill-city-ksSeptember 22, 2016 – Sun, 95 degrees

Miles Today: 83

Miles to Date: 16,742

States to Date: 45

 img_7446

There is a moment in the morning when the sun, flat across the top of the grass, rises a notch and floods the landscape with brilliant light.

rock-post-fence

This area is known as Post Rock. Early settlers mined limestone, broke it across the weak shear plane, then drilled a line of holes through the slab and broke it into fence posts. There are few trees here today, but there were none when the homesteaders arrived.

sunflowers

Before harvest the sunflowers are too heavy to trace the sun. They bow, seed-laden, to the east.

town-sign-with-athletics

Every Kansas town touts its athletic prowess. I have not seen comparable academic pride.

damar-church

Acadians settled Damar, KS and built St. Joseph’s Church, which towers above the prairie. The text of the prayer, ‘Hail Mary’ is on a series of small signs along the highway before you enter town.

western-hills-motel

Western Hills Motel in Hill City is one of the last, great roadside motels. To my reckoning, only three guys in pick-ups and one cyclist stayed here on this Thursday night. At $40 a room, the place may not be long for a world where chains rule. However, Las Canteras Mexican Grill down US 24 was packed, and for good reason. Best carnitas I’ve ever tasted.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment