Trip Log – Day 143 – Susanville, CA to Reno, NV

Posted on September 26, 2015 by paulefallon

Susanville to RenoSeptember 25, 2015 – Sun, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 88

Miles to Date: 7,565

States to Date: 25

I had been warmed that US 395 to Reno had gyrating, variable winds, so I rolled out of Susanville at first light when winds are light. The warnings were supported by big yellow danger signs along the road, but my strategy proved sound. I logged fifty miles along a generous shoulder through stark desert landscape before noon.

IMG_4268I encountered two cyclists on the road. The first blew by me in his black spandex without a word. The second was a grey haired guy in work shorts and a dirty T-shirt, walking his bike along the gravel. I stopped and asked if all was okay. JR is a homeless person from west of Redding en route to Reno and a warmer winter. “I got another flat, a slow leak. That’s five so far this trip.” One look at his lightweight bike, burdened by all of his possessions, explained the problem. “Don’t worry, guy, I’ve had seven flats.” I didn’t mention mine were over 7,000 miles instead of 200. JR let me give him a Presta valve adaptor so we could pump his tire up, but he wouldn’t take any food or water even though I knew he had less than I carried. I respected his pride and wished him well.

Although my legs keep moving to propel me forward, the journeys in my mind often cover greater range. I couldn’t decide who was the greater challenge in our world: the man who whisked by without notice or the one who couldn’t possibly cope. I mulled that one over, then solved the world’s problems and discovered eternal love at least three times before lunch. My musings lent meaning to the message tucked into the guardrail that I leaned my bike against for lunch:

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IMG_4271No shade today; I snacked with sagebrush for companions and then shouldered on. True to form, the wind was much stronger after lunch, which just gave me more opportunity to upright our planet – in my mind at least. This was my fourth consecutive long distance day, and I was much more patient than earlier days.

I arrived in Reno along with several thousand motorcycles for a rally. Since it’s a city that never sleeps, I decided to do some sleeping and checked into a local place for an early night. Tomorrow is time enough to explore The Biggest Little City in the World.

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Profile Response: Dress for Success, Missoula, MT

Posted on September 26, 2015 by paulefallon

HWWLT Logo on yellowThe chance encounters of this journey are the ones that imprint deepest in me. I figured there had to be something interesting in Missoula besides bicycles and was intrigued when Dress for Success popped up in an Internet search. Probably because I am such a lousy dresser. I sent a cold email and received a warm response from Terri Griffith, Board President and Operations Manager. When I arrived at their storefront in late afternoon, her personal reception was even warmer.

What do you do if you are a fifty-year-old woman looking for your first job after raising children, a homeless woman seeking permanent employment, a released felon looking for a job to accompany parole? You may have had a job training class but you’ve still got nothing to wear for that all-important interview. Time to call Dress for Success, a worldwide affiliation of local groups that make women look their best as they step into the work world.

FullSizeRender-6Thirty-seven different organizations in Missoula, from shelters to prisons, send women to Dress for Success, where they are treated like individual beauties and given the clothes, jewelry, and the ever-important shoes, along with hair and make-up tips, to engage the work world in confidence. “We get a lot of referrals from the YWCA, which has a program to relocate battered women to different areas of the country. The transformation we see is amazing.”

The front room of Dress for Success is an office with a touch of bling. Terri has a desk, as does Susan, the boutique manager and Carol, a grant writer. But there are also stands of necklaces and trays holding earrings. Susan toured me through the back where they have racks of business attire in all sizes and styles, a pair of dressing rooms and a fitting area. “When women are referred. we set up an appointment. We guide them to business appropriate clothes and help them coordinate outfits. We want them to look good and feel good.” Everything is donated, both by individuals and retail outfits like Target and Macy’s.

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All three women radiate a generosity of sprit that I’ve learned can only come from experiencing, and overcoming, hardship. Terri is a felon who earned her degree after release and works as a Mental Health Case Manager when not volunteering at Dress for Success. Susan was a snowbird until she found herself alone and without job skills in her early fifties. Carol is quiet; she displays calm certainty without revealing details. These women are so good at this because they’ve been there and come out well. Every woman who walks in the door of Dress for Success encounters a role model.

How will we live tomorrow?

FullSizeRender-1“I live in a hopeful state every day. You get by the best you can and try to be compassionate with each other. I don’t know where my hopefulness comes from. Sometimes I see women being pushed back from feminism. In the early 70’s, when the world was changing for women, you wanted to take off by yourself, but were pulled back by your family and the community. I was raised by a single mom, yet I have always had this idea of family life with a man. How do you model that? I raised two children and have four grandchildren. I want them to self identify as smart and beautiful.” – Susan

“Somewhere, somehow we lost morals and values. The only time to help people out is in disaster. I grew up on military bases until age seventeen. You knew your neighbors and their parents. Not anymore. I hope God will slap people in the face and make people realize we should be proud of what we have, not expect what we have.” – Carol

“Ideally, how we will live tomorrow is that people will stop being so self-absorbed and realize how much we get when we reach out to others. Giving a hand out doesn’t do anything good for anyone. Give a hand out, it leads to entitlement. Give a hand up. People appreciate that and give a hand up to others. – Terri Griffith

 

 

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Trip Log – Day 142 –Bieber, CA to Susanville, CA

Posted on September 25, 2015 by paulefallon

Bieber to SusanvilleSeptember 24, 2015 – Sun, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 74

Miles to Date: 7,477

States to Date: 24

The world is immense. I am traveling across a part of California I never even knew existed. It is gorgeous, it is challenging, and it is really, really big!

Today I passed through a series of valleys, at least six, surrounded by mountains, which, of course, needed to be scaled. Each valley was higher than the last, so climbs up exceeded descents. The largest, Eagle Lake Valley, was above 5,000 feet in elevation. All of that climbing finally culminated in a four-mile white-knuckle descent into Susanville. All my hard pedaling evaporated into my brakes!

I treated myself to a delicious meal at the local Mexican place. An $8.25 pork Chile burrito plate in Susanville beats any Mexican entree in New England.

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The woods are delightful.

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Some of the valleys appear to be former lakes.

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Mount Shasta will not go away; barely visible over 100 miles away.

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I ate lunch under a shady pinion with beautiful sagebrush nearby.

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Eagle Lake is a fragment of what it was. My first evidence of California’s water troubles.

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Trip Log – Day 141 – Mount Shasta, CA to Bieber, CA

Posted on September 24, 2015 by paulefallon

Mount Shasta to BieberSeptember 22, 2015 – Sun, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 78

Miles to Date: 7,383

States to Date: 24

IMG_4238Yesterday I measured my distance as Mount Shasta emerged. Today I kept catching her behind my shoulder.

Everything was easier today: fewer miles, shallower climbs, more benign wind, but three marked summits over 78 miles is still challenging riding. The day began with four miles straight up California Route 89 to McCloud Summit, then a quick descent into town, where I had an early lunch for fear of no other services.

 

 

IMG_4240The second ascent was more gradual, through Trinity-Shasta National Forest, but ultimately went higher. There was no shoulder, but I scooted onto the soft gravel edge when the logging tricks didn’t give any ground. After I turned on to a county road, things got much more fun: a four-mile descent in a straight line – no traffic, no brakes required – followed by fifteen miles through the gorgeous Fall River Valley to McArthur, where there was an unexpected market and very friendly people.

In the heat of a cloudless sky I had to scale Long Summit, the last and highest of my day. I got flat number seven a third of the way up, but all repaired well. I pedaled to the top, and before turning east, caught my last glimpse of mighty Mount Shasta, more than seventy miles away.

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I arrived in Bieber just after five, thankful that the only store was still open. Bieber’s not the kind of place one loves on sight, but everyone I’ve met here has been open and kind. When the Portuguese immigrant motel owner heard about my trip she said, “Well, I can only charge you half price.” I protested, but she insisted. A nice room, hot shower, fresh coffee and Internet for twenty-five dollars; cash. I wanted to take her picture, but she was insistent THAT would not happen.

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Profile Response: Bob Giordino, freecycles, Missoula, MT

Posted on September 24, 2015 by paulefallon

HWWLT Logo on yellowWhen I walked into freecycles I couldn’t figure out whom I was supposed to talk to. Then I realized that was the point. There are people fixing bikes, people watching people fixing bikes, people giving advice to people fixing bikes, and people picking through all kinds of junk – excuse me, parts – that might be useful in fixing bikes.

Twenty years ago, or so, freecycles started in Missoula. Bob Giordino has been there entire time. It would be too restrictive to call him the boss, or even the manager. Let’s just call him the constant. (In fact, Bob is the founder and Executive Director of  MIST, The Missoula Institute of Sustainable Technology, but I learned that from others, not him).

FullSizeRender-1freecycles is nothing more than a cooperative bicycle repair garage, and nothing less than a Utopian vision of how we should all live tomorrow. It’s spacious and messy, friendly and confusing, organized and chaotic. Bob’s eyes dart about the garage looking for people who might need guidance in truing a wheel or greasing a chain. When he’s content that all is fine at the mechanical level, he turns his attention back to me.

imgres“We are going to change how Missoula’s streets are organized. Have you seen the traffic circles at intersections? They were our idea. There are sixty small circles in town and five full-scale roundabouts. There are two to five accidents with bicycles at every traffic light in the city every year. There have been none – none – at roundabouts.”

FullSizeRender-3He shows me a diagram pinned to the wall. “We are going to put the streets on a diet. Where there are four lanes of traffic, we are going to take them to three – one each direction plus a left turn lane. We are going to make bicycle lanes in each direction with the extra pavement.

 

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“Here’s our agenda for the city,” he pulls a small chalkboard off a table and reads the list. “Grow bikes; that means make them from plant material. Road diets; I already explained that. Pick axe asphalt; we need to get rid of that stuff. Portable toolboxes; we need bike repair materials throughout the city. Oh, and we’re trying to raise a million dollars to buy this building. I forgot to put that on the list.”

How will we live tomorrow?

FullSizeRender-2“This is it. It’s all on the board. Let the bikes take over. The world will be a better place.”

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Trip Log – Day 140 – Ashland, OR to Mount Shasta, CA

Posted on September 24, 2015 by paulefallon

Ashland to Mount ShastaSeptember 22, 2015 – Sun, 85 degrees

Miles Today: 84

Miles to Date: 7,305

States to Date: 24

Today was a strenuous reminder of cycling’s rigor. It’s been some time since I rode over eighty miles or a mile of vertical climb. Today I had both.

IMG_4209The Rogue River Valley over Ashland was shrouded in clouds when I began my long slog up and out. Like most, the valley runs north/south. But the Siskiyou Mountains, the only range in the West that runs East/West, cut the valley short, leaving Ashland in a bowl that empties to the north. After fifteen miles, and more than two hours of pedaling, I joined I-5 within a mile of that Interstate’s highest point. It’s an unpleasant place for a cyclist. The fog was dense, the shoulder as wide as the road, but many trucks pulled over to check their brakes before the descent.

Within a minute, literally, of rolling downhill, the fog lifted and the skies were crystal blue. Welcome back to California! I had to remain on I-5 for twelve miles, through the ritual produce checkpoint, until I reached the Klamath River Parkway.

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The ride between the Klamath River and Yreka is spectacular. The road was built in the 1930’s, with graceful, narrow bridges high above the Shasta River. About halfway through I caught my first glimpse of Mount Shasta, framed between two hills with its namesake river running beneath me. It looked so tiny in the camera frame. Little did I know that it was over fifty miles away and would just grow bigger as the day progressed.

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I stopped for lunch in Yreka, the epcienter of the independent State of Jefferson movement. Signs for ‘No Monument’ and ‘No Dam Removal’ were everywhere. It’s not clear why back to the earther’s don’t want a Klamath River National Monument designation or local dams removed so they can run free again. Then again, they don’t want to be part of California; they don’t want to be part of the United States. They are just much better at ‘No’ than anything ‘Yes’. Does that attitude have anything to do with why I went to three eateries for lunch before I found one that took my order? Kitchen folks in the first two simply didn’t bother to come out as I stood at the counter.

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No matter, the third place had tasty burritos. I left Yreka and made my way along tranquil country roads just beyond earshot of I-5. Mount Shasta evolved from an occasional presence to a fixed point. Problem was, I never seemed to move in relation to the mountain. The winds picked up, the grade tilted, and I worked hard, but my perspective on the mountain never changed.

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Of course it did, just not as quickly or as easily as I might have liked. That’s when cycling is like yoga. So I took a break, breathed deep, fixed my attitude, and pedaled on. Finally, after moving toward the mountain for hours, I began to move around it, to approach the City of Mount Shasta.

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It was almost seven when I arrived at my warmshowers host. The pain of the day scrubbed away with the grime on my shins. By the time I sat to dinner, it seemed fortuitous that the mountain chose to be such a constant presence.

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Profile Response: Garden City Harvest, Missoula, MT

Posted on September 23, 2015 by paulefallon

HWWLT Logo on yellowMost everyone in Missoula has heard of PEAS Farm, though few can tell you what the name signifies. “Program in Ecological Agriculture and Society” Josh Slotnick explains. Josh has been affiliated with PEAS for over ten years, so he recalls.

PEAS is a ten acre farm northeast of downtown that fuses agricultural and social initiatives. The farm includes open fields, a greenhouse and two hoop houses. It grows food for a 100 member CSA as well as mobile markets that serve senior centers throughout Missoula and the local Food Bank. In addition, PEAS utilizes a diverse staff model that includes full-time employees, summer youth workers, interns from University of Montana Department of Environmental Education, and eight to ten at-risk youth who receive a stipend through the Missoula Drug Court Program.

FullSizeRenderI met with Josh at PEAS Farm on a sunny weekday morning. Other members of the farm joined in our conversation, as well as Genevieve Marsh, Marketing Manager, and Jean Zosel, Executive Director of Garden City Harvest, the umbrella organization that coordinates eighteen local food initiatives including school and neighborhood gardens. PEAS Farm is the largest and oldest component of Garden City Harvest’s efforts.

FullSizeRender-4Jean explains, “What makes this place sing is the transformative effect of such diverse people meeting, and working, in agriculture.” The college interns may have never met kids with the problems the high schoolers face, who in turn haven’t been exposed to what college offers. The dirty hands work of drawing nourishment from the ground strips away those differences. Working the land is a great equalizer as well as an opportunity for young people who don’t find success in traditional learning environments to shine. “The kids that work through the Drug Court Program staff our mobile markets. It’s great to see how they bond with the seniors they meet every week.”

FullSizeRender-1Garden City Harvest attributes its success to working flexibly across the entire community. CSA members are required to pick up their produce at PEAS Farm, so they understand the operation better and meet the people who grow their food. The School Department, Parks and Recreation, senior services, neighborhood groups, and local businesses all partner with Garden City Harvest in different ways. People choose to be involved for different reasons: to enjoy better food; create a greener world; or save money. From Genevieve’s perspective, it doesn’t matter what motivates people to participate. “Growing food empowers people. Everyone benefits as a result.”

How will we live tomorrow?

FullSizeRender-5“Not how we live today. But if you look at recent history – two days ago – you get an idea. Missoula had this big storm. We had no power. Business ground to a standstill. But we rallied and got things up and running very quickly. We do not show foresight, but we are great in crisis. We cannot imagine a post-oil, post-grid world, but when that comes to pass, we will address it. “ Josh Slotnick

“That’s what we do here. We create the community that can deal with this.” Genevieve Marsh

“And we do it in the context of the other organizations in town. During the storm, the power companies brought in the resources and coordinated the effort. The community supported that. We work toward being well integrated.” – Jean Zosel

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Trip Log – Day 139 – Ashland, OR

Posted on September 22, 2015 by paulefallon

Grants Pass to AshlandSeptember 21, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 38

Miles to Date: 7,221

States to Date: 24 

Another perfect day in Ashland, which I spent visiting Ashlanders. My host Steve set up appointments with the Director of Scienceworks, a hands on museum in town, followed by coffee with John Javna, freethinker and author of Fifty Simple Things You Can do to Save the Earth. Then I cycled up to Medford to meet with Steve and his partners at Lime Rock, a design and manufacturing company specializing in motion tracking devices. Finally, I met with Neil Smith of Airscape Fans. By the time I finished talking with these fascinating guys and pedaled back to Ashland, it was dark.

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Cycling-wise, I enjoyed riding the Ashland/Medford trail again. First, because its a beautiful trail. Second, because I don’t often get to retrace my steps and experience something familiar from a new perspective. Third, I had another serendipitous meeting along the way.

IMG_4158 IMG_4177A few miles outside of Ashland someone has installed a Bike Journal mailbox. On Sunday, I wrote in it on my way into town. Today as I rounded the bend near the mailbox, a man was reading the journal. His wife pointed to the book and called out, “Are you that guy?” Of course I had to stop and chat with Robert, Denise, and their dog jazz.

imagesSteve and Dorothy treated me to a delicious dinner at The Loft in downtown Ashland. They are in the middle of the ‘Whole 30’ diet – no sugar, not gluten, no bread, and a few other ‘no’s’ I cannot recall – while I just eat large quantities of anything. Explaining our order to the wait staff was a 21st century version of When Harry Met Sally. We laughed about it while we quizzed the staff about each ingredient. Alas, there was sugar in the mustard vinaigrette. The waiters took it all in stride, but I imagine they laughed about us later.

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Trip Log – Day 138 – Grants Pass, OR to Ashland, OR

Posted on September 21, 2015 by paulefallon

Grants Pass to AshlandSeptember 20, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 51

Miles to Date: 7,183

States to Date: 24

There was no traffic on Route 99 early Sunday mornings. Just me, dense trees, steep hills and bright sun creating sharp shadows as I eased my way up to the town of Rogue River. I crossed the Rogue at this cool bridge and then enjoyed a meandering bike path through Rogue River State Park.

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My route paralleled I-5 for several miles. The valley spread out, the forests became scattered and the scenery became reminiscent of the mountain West.

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IMG_4154Medford, Oregon has suffered a series of unfortunate shopping malls and the highway slicing through downtown such there really isn’t any downtown left. The bike path follows Bear Creek, literally under the highway. But there are some cool murals painted on the Interstate’s belly.

IMG_4160I got to Ashland mid afternoon and spent evening with my friends Steve and Dorothy Miner. Ashland is a lovely place. We strolled the city park and watched a Mexican dance troupe; there’s a daily performance at the Town Green sponsored by the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. We also had a great meal and conversation well past dark.

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New Ways to Track: How will we live tomorrow?

Posted on September 21, 2015 by paulefallon

HWWLT Logo on yellowAs we head into autumn I wonder, what is this thing I’ve been doing for four months? I call it adventure. Others call it a journey, a tour, an odyssey, a pilgrimage, an escapade and a stunt. Whatever it is, I am still inspired by what I see and who I meet.

 

My blog, www.howwillwelivetomorrow.com has gotten so full of great ideas from people coast to coast that some have complained it’s too cumbersome navigate. In order to make it easier, I’ve made some change that I hope will help.

Navigation Tips:

Screen Shot 2015-09-20 at 12.43.17 PMUse ‘Category’ button to separate the Trip Blogs (for cycling fiends) from the Responses (for policy wonks).

Use the Search bar to zero in on a specific date, place, or person. All posts have a geographical location in their title to help people find posts by region.

Hit the ‘Follow’ button to receive an email every time I post a new entry.

 

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I have added two new Titles to the Home Page.

 ‘What Interests You’ reveals links to the most popular posts sorted by content. Want to read different viewpoints about energy or arts and culture? Want to relive the days I had bicycle mishaps or witnessed extraordinary beauty? Start there.

‘Media’ lists online articles about my trip.

 

Fall Plans:

Screen Shot 2015-09-20 at 12.50.59 PMOver the next two months I will be traveling through California, Nevada and Arizona before returning to Massachusetts for the holidays. Wherever I stop, I plan resume my journey in January.

I always appreciate suggestions of places to go and people to meet. But even more, I like people who respond to my question. If I haven’t heard from you, I hope to soon.

I wish all my readers an autumn rich in energy and wellbeing.

 

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