Trip Log – Day 137 – Cave Junction, OR to Grant’s Pass, OR

Cave Junction to Grant's PassSeptember 19, 2015 – Sun, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 36

Miles to Date: 7,132

States to Date: 24

IMG_4129I woke to lovely fog, had a great breakfast and visit with my host Meadow and rolled onto U.S. 199 before nine for my easy thirty to Grants Pass. I had directions on several good bypass routes – mostly where old 199 branches away from the newer road. Sure enough, the most interesting things happened when I was off the main path.

There is some great ‘hippie’ architecture in Kerby.

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I opted for the road not taken, on the right. Hayes Hill Road had zero traffic and a sweet roller coaster descent for three miles.

Four ladies providing snacks for riders on the Rouge River 100 mile ride gave me full access to their food and drink.

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The Saturday market in Grant’s Pass is the happening place in town. After a writing break, I enjoyed dinner with a warmshowers host who had just finished the River Rouge Ride. Brian had a more difficult riding day than me.

 

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Responses to “How will we live tomorrow?”

How will we live tomorrow?

“We will live together in this wonderful world. We will preserve it for those who will live tomorrow.”

Jeanne Large, Kirkland, WA

Check out Jeanne’s informative comment about preservation of the Oregon Coast

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’ve been a nurse for over thirty years. I’ve been a midwife at Kaiser for 23 years. I love it but I worry that I am complacent because it is so comfortable. How will I know when to move on? What will I move on to?”

Gerri Cullers, nurse midwife, Portland, OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“I think ‘How will we live tomorrow’ is a good question for each of us in that the more we treat others the way Christ treated folks when He last walked our planet, we’ll have little concern as to how the world treats us in the “last days”. The more we are Christ to others, the more he’ll welcome us in His Glory during the last days.”

Terry Nobbe, Disciple of Seventh Day Adventist Church, Portland, OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“Tomorrow there will be no more golf courses.”

Kurt Neugebauer, gym member, Eugene OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“If you want to make God laugh, make plans.”

Katie Berkowitz, St. Paul’s warmshowers cooperative, Crescent City, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_4133“You came along at just the right time. We were just lamenting the state of affairs. Donald Trump is am embarrassment. What if actually became President?

“We live in a beautiful place. The sun rises and sets every day. We will go on.

“The inequalities are too great. I am a teacher in a school where we got a grant so that 100% o the students receive free breakfast and lunch. There are more transient people all the time. The parks fo full of people who live in the campsites. The rangers make them move every fourteen days, and so they go on a circuit from camp to camp. I am sure it is less expensive than a motel, and there are showers, but it’s not the right way to people to have to live. They pan for gold hoping to find a nugget big enough to pay first and last month’s rent to a place through the winter.”

Rouge River 100 Mile Ride support staff, Wilderville, OR 

How will we live tomorrow?

“I want to live life to the max. My most favorite thing is having people around my table for dinner But I still have no idea what I will do when I grow up. I want to keep living with passion.”

Kirk Koenig, extraordinary cook, Eugene OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“We all use our Apple products to communicate by texts and pings. The hospital has all kinds of systems for communicating. But we just use our Apple products.”

Karyn, OR Manager, Eugene OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“Tomorrow will be good.”

Ming, Clerk at The Front Street Inn, Crescent City, OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“God wants to be with us, to help us and heal us but we have to ask Him for His help.”

Quote from pamphlet I received from Pregnancy Crisis Worker, Arlington, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“One day at a time.”

Cliff, army veteran, working second mate on a tuna boat off the coast, Florence, OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“If we stay connected to our hearts, we’ll be free as we are today.”

Johnny, microbus traveller from Canada to California, Florence, OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“The same way I am today. Absolutely.”

Tarea, travelling with Johnny, Florence, OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“We have 350 spotted plover on the Oregon Coast. We used to have 32. For the past two years we have met our target. If we make our ten year target we can begin to relax our restrictions.”

Volunteer for Oregon Department of Wildlife, Florence, OR

 

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’m just working here a few days. Working my way back to Flagstaff.”

Christian, laborer at Something Awesome, Bandon, OR

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Trip Log – Day 136 – Crescent City, CA to Cave Junction, OR

Crescent City to Cave JunctionSeptember 18, 2015 – Sun, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 57

Miles to Date: 7,096

States to Date: 24

Yesterday I tackled a 1200 vertical foot climb over 2-1/2 miles to get to the Lady Bird Johnson Redwood Grove. Today that sprint was replaced by a different challenge – a 3,000-foot rise spread over a steady grade for 35 miles.

IMG_4104I started my day with a hefty bag of cheese curds from Rumiano, a famous cheese factory in Crescent City.  That fueled my ride from Crescent City through Jedidiah Smith State Park, Hiouchi and Gasquet along the Smith Rive Canyon is a spectacular one, but there is no relief to going up, up, up. I rarely needed my granny gear, but reaching false peak after false peak is a grueling game that gave me plenty of opportunity to witness my false perception of grade. When a 4% rise levels off to a 2% rise, the road appears to go downhill, so why am I still only logging 8 miles per hour?

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All the pain was more than worth it, as the Smith Rive Canyon is a gorgeous place, the weather was perfect, and the traffic as accommodating as a cyclist can expect on such a narrow road.

IMG_4114I stopped in Gasquet where firefighters had set up camp in the local airport. The last two days of rain helped dampen the danger, the fire warnings slipped from ’Extreme’ to ‘High’. The firefighters are an array of National Park Service employees, National Guard, U.S. military, and contract services from all over the country. I talked with a guard from Nebraska and cook from Texas who were both preparing to go home within days.

IMG_4118Beyond Smith Canyon I descended into the Illinois River Valley of Oregon, a place rich in hippie vestiges. At Cave Junction I stayed with my first couchsurfing host (as opposed to warmshowers host). Meadow lives in small conservation cooperative. She invited some of her neighbors for dinner. We enjoyed crispy rice with Portobellos, green beans with almonds, and a robust salad, along with incredible raspberry cobbler, and talk about tomorrow that lasted well into the night.

 

 

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Profile Response: Ken Stull, Ovando, MT

HWWLT Logo on yellow“I grew up blue collar. I knew I couldn’t have everything. I used to date this girl back in Pennsylvania. I’d came home from a date and see the fly fishing book on the coffee table and knew that I’d rather have that than her.”

Ken Stull grew up outside of Wilkes-Barre, PA and came to Montana years ago. “There’s a tradeoff to living in Montana, low wages. But how do you put a price on this view?” We were standing outside the Blackfoot Angler, a general store and fly-fishing boutique that sits next to The Stray Bullet CFullSizeRender-1afe in the tiny town of Ovando. Kathy Schoendoerfer, the self-described Ovando Organizer of Frivolous Affairs, owns the Blackfoot Angler though it seems to operate on good will more than hard cash. Ken keeps an eye on the store, and drifts over to the cafe when a coffee urge comes over him.

Fly-fishing is pure enjoyment of man and creature. “A fly fisherman has the option to release the fish unharmed; the flies almost never dig too deep to harm the fish. Trout swim in crystal clear waters, which often have lots of food sources. They become selective about what they like, which we call the ‘hatch’. Flies try to ‘match the hatch’ so we trick the trout into jumping after what they crave.”

FullSizeRender copy“My parents got sick and I went back to Pennsylvania to care for them. It near killed me to leave Montana, but it turned out to be a good thing. After they passed, I sold the farm, and now I am more independent. I have my dog, she’s my family.”

“I wish we could get people to life in big towers and leave the land untouched. But private property rights govern and everyone wants their piece. Look at Paradise Valley down near Livingston. It is the most beautiful valley on earth, filling up with five acre ranchettes.”

“For many fishermen, the key is to get the fish to jump for the fly; they don’t even care if they snag it. I also like the feel of reeling it in.”

“Henry’s ForkFullSizeRender in Idaho, that’s where you go to get your PhD. in fly fishing. The stream is clear, the hatch abundant, and the trout selective. I’ve never tried it but I heard guys got so frustrated by the fish they threw expensive rods away in disgust. Sure enough, one day a guy came in here and told me he did just that.”

Ken took out a laminated trout book and showed me various types. “Brook trout are the only indigenous species in the East. White men introduced brook trout out here, and rainbow trout back there. Then they brought brown trout from England, which are bigger and take over. The golden trout; that’s the prince. He is difficult to catch but so gorgeous to look at.”

How will we live tomorrow?

FullSizeRender-1 copy“This place will get developed, but not in my lifetime. People need to live places, and eventually they’ll come here.”

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Trip Log – Day 135 – Crescent City, CA to Orick, CA and back again

Crecent City to OrickSeptember 17, 2015 – Sun, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 52

Miles to Date: 7,039

States to Date: 24

Today I basked in the glory of the redwoods. My route was out and back; down the coast to visit Redwoods National Park and then return to Crescent City before heading East tomorrow. Several locals warned against cycling the stretch from Crescent City to Klamath, 22 miles of gorgeous shore with tight curves and zero shoulder. I followed their advice and took the bus ($1.50 each way, half the passengers cyclists) and continued south from there. This turned a 90+ mile day into a 50 mile day, and it was fun to take the curves on 101 at motor speed. I arrived at Klamath at 8:30 a.m. The overnight rain had turned to fog as I crossed the Klamath River.

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The mountains lay before my like Shangri-La as I began the six-mile trek up 101 and the Drury Road bypass through Prairie Creek State Park.

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Redwood forests remind me of Hong Kong; impossibly tall structures hovering above a cacophony of ground level activity. I am constantly torn between looking skyward or exploring the dense fauna at eye level. The trees stand so independent, yet so close; a community of solitary objects. In fact, redwoods have shallow, wide root systems and no taproot. Their foundations are intertwined. They hold each other up. Like us, they are less independent than they appear.

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IMG_4078Of course I had to stop at the sign that read, ‘Big Tree’. It is among the grandest: 1500 years old; more than 300 feet tall; over 21 feet in diameter. The base circumference is 68 feet. This tree was one of the triggers that propelled the Redwood preservation movement in the early twentieth century when a local tried to cut it down and polish the stump into an outdoor dance floor.

 

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IMG_4082The descent along Drury Road was one of my most pleasant glides all trip. I rolled along at 12 miles per hour with minimal pealing for miles until I arrived Elk Meadow, where a big guy was grazing near the edge of the road.

 

The State of California began preserving Redwoods over one hundred years ago, but Redwoods Naitonal Park wasn’t formed until 1968. Lady Bird Johnson was an advocate for the park, so I wanted to see the grove named in her honor. Most redwoods are nestled between the sea and the hills, where they catch the most fog. But Lady Bird Johnson Grove is on a ridge. The redwoods are less dense, but the variety of other plants is greater. Unfortunately, it is also a steep climb: 1200 vertical feet in less than three miles. It was worth the effort, and I had a nice break walking my bike along the 1-1/2 mile trail.

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IMG_4093I am still mesmerized by how these behemoths fall – there seems so little room for them to land. But when they land across a path, the Park Service just cuts a slice through for us to pass.

IMG_4094I white-knuckle braked my way down from Lady Bird Johnson Grove, pedaled through Orick and stopped for lunch at the beach, where I met the sweetest couple from West Virginia.

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The ride back to Klamath was easy. The post-storm winds were mostly at my back though the sky was blue. I hiked a few more redwood trails, and took a parting photograph from the Klamath River Bridge. Within seven hours the morning fog lifted, the sun shined, and the late day clouds were setting in.

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Profile Response: Tim Holmes, Helena, MT

HWWLT Logo on yellowTim Holmes is the only person I’ve taken money from on this trip. One blue dollar. I tried to turn it down, but he wouldn’t let me. “It’s real US currency. We aren’t allowed to deface our money. This isn’t defaced. It’s just blue. You can still read everything on it. You can still see the watermarks.” Tim creates blue money and distributes it with a story. “Wealth is created by nature and human creativity. Money represents wealth, but so much of our wealth is tainted. Blue bills are based on a clean world; they’re used for clean purposes. When you accept a blue bill, you acknowledge that you’ll use it for clean purposes. When you give it someone, they accept the bill with that understanding.”

imagesI took the dollar. A few days later, I gave it to a waitress in Ovando and explained its meaning. She seemed to understand. No other blue bills have crossed my path. But Tim’s blue bill made me conscious of whom I gave it to and why. I remember that waitress above all others because I chose to give her my blue bill. The blue bill was a dollar. But because it made me see money differently, it was also art.

In many ways, Tim is a conventional artist. He’s created thousands of beautiful drawings and shapes evocative sculptures. He’s also had a good share of artistic fame. Tim Holmes was the first American artist to be exhibited at The Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia. He created the statuette that the United Nations gives to its ‘Woman of the Year.’ He’s worked with Jimmy Carter and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. His art is on display all over the world. Which frees him from pursuing fame. “I don’t have a PR machine anymore. I had success early in my career; that success enables my obscurity. Now I can work for my muse.”

images-2Tim showed me a recent sculpture, inspired by the Fujiyama disaster. Two metal figures are connected at their feet. They can be twisted and turned in over 40 variations, yet they never quite stand on their own. “I look at a situation and try to illuminate it from the inside out. I want to come with a compelling question that the viewer cannot let go.”

Although Tim’s artistic success came through drawing and sculpture, he’s always been a multifaceted artist. Tim’s father was the Pastor of St. Paul’s Methodist Church in Helena. His sister Krys is Director of the Myrna Loy Center, his brother Steve is an artist in Massachusetts. “I come from an accomplished, remarkable family, all working for a better world.” Tim and Steve were half of the Montana Logging and Ballet Company, a political satire and musical group, for over twenty-five years. My Helena warmshowers host played their CD, which is gorgeous stuff.

images-4Beyond making and distributing blue bills, Tim is excited about another non-traditional art project, one that dovetails with my own quest to question people. Tim provides drawings to his friend Garrett Garrels, who gives them to individuals he meets in his journeys. The two collaborated on a book, Random Gifts of Art, a collection of Tim’s drawings and Garrett’s stories of giving them away. They distribute the book for free and ask people to pass it along.

Tim and Garrett are looking for ways to expand on their random gifts of art project by creating a performance piece to tour around the world. They want to move beyond thinking of art as a precious commodity. “The point is to spark creative generosity; to create an avenue of generosity within a capitalist system.”

How will we live tomorrow?

images-1“I have books on that.

“We have to design a future that will serve us all. If we use our imagination we can create a world that works for everybody. We can’t just do what we’ve been doing. So the next time we build a nuclear plant, if we do, we understand the parameters that nature will subsume human plans.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 134 – Crescent City, CA

 

Gold Beach to Crescent CitySeptember 16, 2015 – Rain, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 18

Miles to Date: 6,987

States to Date: 24

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I woke to rain, a light spattering on my roof that grew in intensity throughout the morning. I had planned to go to Trinidad – 70 miles along the coast. But nothing gelled. I didn’t get a warmshowers host or other accommodation. Besides, my host told me the redwoods three miles away in Jedediah Smith State Park were as magnificent as any. I didn’t realize that Redwoods National Park is actually a series of parks, and the redwoods north of Crescent City are as grand as any. So, instead of enduring a wet cycling day, I spent the morning enjoying my cozy cabin and pedaled out after noon, when the showers turned to a trickle.

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Seeing redwood trees was one of a handful of natural sites I wanted to encounter on my trip. The tallest living things on earth do not disappoint. They are immense and majestic. I snapped picture after picture in vain; it’s impossible to capture their character in a frame. I finally added my bicycle just to get some scale. I was also amazed by the ones that had fallen over. They are so big and so close, it’s hard to believe they find a place to lie flat, but they do.

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I rode into Crescent City proper, which is an interesting town in an abstract way. It gets more tsunamis than any city on the west Coast; the entire downtown was wiped out in 1964. Given the quality of architecture in the 1960’, what was built in its place is pretty banal. What is interesting is the system of jetties they’ve built to protect the harbor and their advance warning system.

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IMG_4064Although the forecast called for more rain, the skies brightened, so I went out to the jetties and toured town before finding a nice motel for the night. There are few tourists here mid-week with bad weather, so I got a room with a water view. Pretty classy for me.

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Profile Response: Ed Bender, followthemoney.org, Helena, MT

HWWLT Logo on yellowEd Bender moved to Helena twenty-five years ago as a journalist working on water rights. He became interested in campaign financing and started assembling campaign finance data from every state. His efforts grew into followthemoney.org, a non-profit that organizes and disseminates data about political campaign expenditures. In 2015, followthemoney won a MacArthur Award for Creative and Effective institutions.

Each state has its own system of campaign finance reporting. Followthemoney organizes the $3 billion we spend on elections into a free database that illustrates which individuals and organizations are funding what candidates and initiatives. “It’s all interesting to me, but that’s just me.”

images-2Ed gave me a demonstration of how people can navigate their website. One can find direct contributions to electoral candidates, money given to committees, and for specific legislation. “Our next step is to connect contributors to lobbyists. Companies spend six to ten times more money on lobbyists than they do on contributions.” Including lobbyists will link all political monies to their power implications.

images-1Followthemoney has API’s (Application Program Interface), algorithms that illustrate relationship between money and influence. “When our citizenry is more well versed, they will be able to create their own API’s, to find out what they want. The idea of accountability is important. As a reporter, I can go into this data and make a story, many stories.”

“Our biggest problems are: awareness, people have to know this data is available; care, people have to think that it’s important; and bandwidth, we have to give people the capability to analyze the data according to their need. We’re just doing the bandwidth, the easy stuff.”

imagesFollowthemoney continues to refine their data. They are working to connect donations to voting patterns and demographics. “Big data houses already do this. We’re doing it for the public. If you get to ask the questions, you pretty much get the answers you want, or you get to table the issue.” That skews our system in the direction of those with money and influence.

How will we live tomorrow?

Ed Bender“We’re going to be driven by technology and data. I won’t say that is all good. In some ways it’s really sorry.

“The focus of the first fifteen years of this organization has been collecting and logging data. The objective of the next fifteen years is to make sense of it. We can ask questions like, ‘Are term limits good, are campaign contribution limits good, and how do matching funds affect influence?’ We can track the revolving doors of regulated industries like prisons, utilities, and the stock exchange.

“We are approaching this to be an enabler. After Watergate we implemented a series of reforms that were actually pretty good. We have whittled away at them, but they could be strengthened again.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 133 –Gold Beach, OR to Crescent City, CA

Gold Beach to Crescent CitySeptember 15, 2015 – Overcast, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 65

Miles to Date: 6,969

States to Date: 24 

IMG_4049California! I rolled over the line in late afternoon and entered The Golden State – home to one in nine Americans, each of whom is increasingly thirsty. As I entered, fires raged in the State after a long, dry summer. But I brought with me the forecast of rain, a forecast heralded like a newborn over the past few days. If the word California means anything, it means hope. It’s where we head when we need a fresh start. Everyone here is hoping these rains will do some good, to extinguish fires in the short-term and quench thirst in the long.

imagesPaul Hempel and Bruce Newman sent me off from Gold Beach with a huge breakfast. The ride along the Oregon coast was beautiful, though the wind turned into my face as the weather shifted. Much of the Oregon coast is preserved, with well-marked viewpoints along the way. I stopped to enjoy many of the diversions.

IMG_4048-1I took a break at the Brookings Library and continued on to California. I crossed the border and passed the requisite agricultural station. Immediately, there was much more development. More oceanfront houses, more farms, more places stacked on the hills. I turned off US 101 just beyond Smith River, passed the forbidding Pelican Bay Prison, and arrived at my warmshowers hosts.

IMG_4050Hope and Dave live on a two-acre orchard with a small house, shed building, and cottage out back. Dave had just finished installing batt insulation from the outside of the west wall. He asked me to help hold a 4×8 sheet of plywood at the corner. I suggested that the insulation would be ruined if the rain forecast proved true, so we spent an hour getting all the sheathing in place. It felt good to work for my supper of homegrown squash soup and thick, fresh bread. The simplest and most satisfying meal of my trip, topped it off with dark chocolate cocoanut patties for dessert.

IMG_4051After dinner I tucked into the back cottage, two charming rustic rooms with a comfy bed.

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Featured Response: Busy Mother, Everywhere USA

HWWLT Logo on yellowI received this response from the mother of three young boys who asked to remain unidentified due security issues surrounding her family’s work. Although I prefer people to identify themselves, in this case anonymity actually strengthens her response.

We all create idealized scenarios. Reality never measures up, and so we grapple with the disappointment of a less satisfying reality. Since the author is not some ‘other person’ but could be any of us, the dichotomy between our fantasies and realities become universal.

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The author also addresses a prevalent challenge nested within my question. About 25% of people respond in the first person singular without even acknowledging they’ve changed the question. This woman accepts her ‘I’ starting point and enlarges it to ‘we’.

Whoever you are, I appreciate your response.

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’ve been thinking about your question – I have to laugh at myself because I keep thinking of me first but when I think it through it comes back around to “we” :).

“How Will We Live Tomorrow?” I hope we will live tomorrow with balance, respect, positive outlook and hope. I am often annoyed with myself that I so often envision what the next day will bring and imagine an idealistic family setting – my kids getting up, having breakfast, having conversation with me, saying goodbye before school, coming home, doing their homework without whining and playing until Dad gets home.

imgres-2My ultimate family night is the thought of the five of us sitting at dinner and talking about whatever, but no one is getting annoyed because table manners are sloppy or a brother is too close or whatever. Afterwards we all work together to clean up and get ready for the next day before having time for a game, story or Lego building. This almost never happens and yet I imagine it almost everyday and work hard to get a schedule down that would allow for this. Personally I realize I need to find balance in recognizing that we are a busy family and we all do the best we can each day. And while I think my kids are growing up to respect those around them it is increasingly hard in this society to model that when they see such disrespect for elders and officials around them. But having the positive outlook that I have (or try to have) I choose to continue imagining this scenario for my family in the hope we will have more days like that as our kids get older.

“Putting this in the context of “we” I think we have the potential to do great things if more of us found balance between working hard, doing the best for our families and having fun rather than bickering and complaining about what we don’t have; respecting those around us even if they don’t agree with you 100% since most people are just trying to do what they believe to be right; approaching things with a positive outlook that would help resolve issues and hoping that whenever our children grow up they can share similar visions of just trying to have a simple family day.”

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