Trip Log – Day 154 – Merced, CA to Ceres, CA

Merced to ModestoOctober 6, 2015 – Sunny, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 38

Miles to Date: 8,133

States to Date: 25

IMG_4494I spent the morning in Merced, a traditional ag town that is being transformed by the newest addition of the University of California system – CA Merced. Merced has a gorgeous courthouse, shady downtown, and I had two separate interviews at Healthy House, a non-profit that bridges Eastern and Western cultures and medicines through work with the Hmong and other immigrant communities.

Cycling makes small changes apparent. It was after two before I began pedaling to Ceres. I noticed the earth is a bit greener, the terrain a tiny bit more varied than yesterday. The canals actually have water. Hmong farmers plant a variety of crops – something rare in this monoculture world.

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Can you guess what this dozer is piling up? Answer in a few days…IMG_4509

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Profile Response: Brian D’Apice, Bike Around America, Sultan, WA

HWWLT Logo on yellowBrian D’Apice is a thirty year old former member of the 82nd Airborne Division who is now bicycling around the perimeter of the United States to raise money for two favorite charities: Pencils of Promise, which builds schools in developing countries, and the National Military Family Association. We are travelling in the same direction with different purposes.

Brian was in tenth grade when 911 occurred. He knew then he wanted to serve in our military. After high school, he enlisted, was deployed n 2004, became a Sergeant, and was deployed again in 2006, the first unit of the Surge.

imgres-1Brian is one of the most well integrated Iraqi war veterans I’ve met. I asked how he managed to circumvent PTSD. “People with PTSD are not in the present. They are trapped in their minds. I had a strong family unit back home. They provided the gravity that kept me grounded. Not all vets have that support, and they can’t leave what happened behind. They are still living then, instead of living now. When I came home, I had to learn to let go of the tough guy thing, but still keep those traits.”

After his service Brian went to York College in Pennsylvania, majored in marketing but also read a lot of spirituality and self-help. “I got involved in meditation. When I am in the moment, I am bullet-proof.”

imgresAfter college, Brian taught English in Thailand, where he encountered Pencils of Promise. He also spent time in Taiwan, Indonesia, and Vietnam. “One morning in Vietnam I woke up and knew I had to do this bike ride. Within half an hour the ride was planned.” Months into his ride, Brian still exudes excitement. As he rides he talks with school groups about his passions. So far, he’s raised $17,000 to support his endeavor and his charities.

How will we live tomorrow?

images“I’d say we won’t. You can’t live tomorrow. You can only live today. Tomorrow is mind-made. It was invented when we made time.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 153 – Madera, CA to Merced, CA

Madera to MercedOctober 5, 2015 – Sunny, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 51

Miles to Date: 8,095

States to Date: 25

IMG_4486Today I was drenched in drought. I zig-zagged through the grid of agricultural roads laid out over the Central Valley. The land is flat, the earth is dust, the orchards grow where there is irrigation. Fields of crops that have low water allocations are ripped up to be replaced by less water intensive crops, or ones that receive a higher state allocation. Apparently, walnuts are out, almonds are in, but that seems to vary according to whom I meet.

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The area is littered with signs about water; either lambasting politicians or beseeching god. No signs acknowledge any personal contributions to the problem, despite the sprinklered lawns in the foreground of the ranch houses.

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The people who live here feel besieged. They provide crops for the entire country and in return we are strangling their water and ruining their way of life. As an observer from beyond, this way of life seems so unnatural, propping it up with more water will only delay the inevitable. We have created a society and economy that will be difficult to shift, but even more difficult to maintain in the future.

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Profile Response: Kinna McMahon and Sally Warrington, Leavenworth, WA

HWWLT Logo on yellowKinna McMahon is a 23-year-old college graduate who lives with Kristin Black in Leavenworth, WA. Sally is their sixtyish neighbor. All three attend the same church. Kinna, Sally and I had a far-reaching discussion of Christianity. I appreciate how they stated their beliefs so clearly, yet listened to my doubts and responded to my queries with such respect.

Sally: “Jesus means everything to me. He has changed my life. I grew up with a lot of sadness. My parents were divorced. I changed high schools a lot. I was sad on the inside but always put on a smile. I grew up in Congregationalist and Methodist churches that were very liberal. At one point during college I took a bottle of sleeping pills. I called out to God. Just then my mother called. She told me to get to the hospital. I was saved. That was God, working through her. Two weeks later a friend invited me to church, where I met Mark, my husband. I went to college and misused my freedom. But God saved me and gave me Mark. We have been married 44 years.”

Kinna: “In college I became Type A. I cried over an A minus. I put on a good face, but I was miserable. I don’t have any memories from those first two years. In junior year, Sally shared that Jesus lived a perfect life so that I didn’t have to. I finished school and had an internship with Ernst and Young. But I also had this idea that I had to go to Costa Rica for a year. I had a good upbringing, everything was good, but something was broken inside. God was telling me to go to Bible School instead of climbing the corporate ladder.

images-1“Costa Rica is a middle class Latin culture. People have enough, and are incredibly happy; a level of happiness we never see in this country. You can’t know your own culture until you spend time in another.”

After Kinna’s year abroad, she returned to graduate school and is completing a master’s thesis on human trafficking in Chelan County, in which Leavenworth is located. “Trafficking does not require relocation. It can happen within a community. The scope of human trafficking is immense. What would it look like to eradicate this in our own community?” Kinna sees trafficking as a barometer for the health of our society. “The reason trafficking is easy in the United States is because our system is broken. One ex-pimp told me, ‘We eat and breath manipulating girls. They are so hungry for love it’s a cinch to get them under our thumb.’”

Kinna sees a direct correlation between her work in trafficking and her faith. “The definition of sin is choosing our way as opposed to God’s way. You have to have a moment when you struggle out of sin. You have to accept a new identity as a saint. Not because you’re perfect, but because God accepts you as you are.”

Sally adds: “Christianity is not about climbing up to God. God comes down to us.”

imagesOf all the Christians I have met, Kinna and Sally were the most open to questions about their faith without being defensive. I asked what it means that The Bible is the inspired word of God? Isn’t all meaningful writing inspired? What makes The Bible different from Shakespeare? Kinna responded, “Writings can be inspired by God, but we believe The Bible is directed by God. It is his Words, channeled through man.”

I also wanted to know, if you believe in Jesus Christ, why is it so important to have others believe in him as well? Why must others believe the same thing you do? Sally said, “We believe that Jesus Christ is real, that he is fact. It’s our duty to share our knowledge with others. It is so good to have a compass.” I pointed out that Sally included the words ‘believe’ and ‘fact’ in the same sentence. If you believe, if you have faith, then Jesus becomes fact. But if you don’t have that initial belief, the ‘fact’ of Jesus as the Son of God, any ore than Kinna or Sally are children of God, doesn’t necessarily follow.

Kinna added, “You are a relativist. You think there are many possible answers. We know there is only one answer.” I asked what she thought of Muslims, who also believe they know the one right answer. Kinna is confident that at the end times, her faith would prove true. “Christianity is not a blind faith. Time and again, The Bible has proven true.”

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_3679“I will go to heaven. My job is to work on earth to serve Jesus and show others His way. As it says in Psalm 40, ‘I waited patiently for the Lord.’ The Lord gave me a new song. I am not scared about tomorrow. I am excited about tomorrow.” – Sally Warrington

“Men want to be respected. Women want to be loved. We have to order our lives to that. Female empowerment often disrespects men. Men are top dogs, but they don’t take that role in a respected way. The protector role is important. They are privileged, and with that privilege comes responsibility.” – Kinna McMahon

 

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Trip Log – Day 152 – Fresno, CA to Madera, CA

Fresno to MaderaOctober 4, 2015 – Sunny, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 38

Miles to Date: 8,044

States to Date: 25

Big news in Fresno: it rained last night! The city is abuzz with the good news, and the temperature dropped twenty degrees. Even a brief midnight thunderstorm is noteworthy.

IMG_4473I chatted with the young parishioners from St. Joachim Church who were manning the Sunday morning shift at the Planned Parenthood protest that has been going on for weeks. They were more interested in having pictures taken than discussing abortion.

Note to people seeking business opportunities: do not start an elevator repair business in Fresno. There are no multiple story buildings beyond the ten-block downtown. Even office parks are single story structures. It is the most horizontal city I have ever seen. No terrain, all low slung roofs and possibly more square feet of blacktop per person than anywhere on the face of the earth. There’s a parallel road along each major arterial street. What is that for?

IMG_4475 IMG_4476Mexican food is my favorite – I eat it everywhere I can. Today I hit the jackpot: Taqueria Carniceria El Charrito on West Ave has the best Mexican food I’ve eaten to date. It takes a tough stomach to appreciate a burrito supreme at 10 a.m. on a Sunday morning, but I was up to the task. As is always the case, price is inversely proportionate to taste. This huge burrito plus two Mexican buns (I already ate the cornbread pie before I snapped the photo) cost $6.40.

The ride to Madera through the Central Valley was easy yet fascinating. The canals, one so full of water, are empty. Beyond each irrigated trees or rape vine, the dirt is dusty sand. Grapes are laid out on south facing parchment to dry into raisins.

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I stayed with a wonderful family in Madera with two engaging children. Spending time with children always reminds me of the fun I had when mine were little.

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Trip Log – Day 151 – Fresno, CA

Midpoine to FresnoOctober 3, 2015 – Sunny, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 25

Miles to Date: 8,006

States to Date: 25

I woke this morning in a midcentury mirage. My warmshowers hosts live in an 1800 square foot ranch on an ample lot in the middle of this sprawling city. It was built in 1955, the year I was born, and has held its charms. I roused feeling light and expansive as the sectional sofa I slept upon and the fig tree beyond the patio doors. We enjoyed fresh fruit and yogurt with coffee for breakfast. The raisins were especially good – Fresno’s fame.

IMG_4457If the point of my trip is to observe a broad slice of American life, I can’t spend all my time in the Yosemite’s and Portland’s of the world. So, I decided to spend the day in Fresno. I began riding up and down Van Ness, Fresno’s classy residential district. Whoever decided to bring water to the desert was a lifestyle genius. It’s so pleasant to be among lush vegetation without any humidity. On a bright Saturday morning, affluent couples strolled beneath giant shade trees, next to green lawns and flowers. All so verdant, all so unsustainable.

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I pedaled downtown. There are a few ornate theaters and hotel blocks from the 20’s and 30’s, but Fresno boomed during the 1950’s and 60’s, so there are blocks of over scaled government buildings sitting large courtyards surrounded by seas of parking. The only crowd was a throng of men, mostly homeless, waiting to get into the library when it opened at ten. I interviewed a Pawn Shop manager about tomorrow, and continued my tour.

After a tasty lunch in a local tacqueria, I cruised by Cal State Fresno and spent the afternoon writing in the local Mcdonald’s, which also meant talking with laborers and attorneys and mothers. McDonald’s is our collective living room.

imgresI spent the evening with a cool couchsurfing host. Surge is the son of Mexican farm workers, a high school world history teacher in a overwhelmingly Hispanic high school, and a world traveller. He lives in the Tower neighborhood, Fresno’s hipster district. We strolled Olive Street and ate at a Mediterranean restaurant. We learned the limits of Fresno’s cool: they served falafel on tortillas.

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Trip Log – Day 150 – Midpines, CA to Fresno, CA

Midpoine to FresnoOctober 2, 2015 – Sunny, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 77

Miles to Date: 7,981

States to Date: 25

Today I sing an ode to Surly, my phenomenal bicycle. I started the day in the mountains. Google suggested a route of local roads that shaved five miles, and 3,000 vertical feet, off the highway route. Ever leery of dirt roads I vetted the route with the manager of the hostel. She explained that the roads were paved but advised against them since they had no shoulder. She was right in that the roads had no shoulder, or even a yellow line. But since no cars overtook me in over 25 miles, road width was not a problem.

IMG_4440Unfortunately, she was incorrect about pavement. Over fifty miles on county roads, about ten miles were gravel. But Surly handled the ruts, soft patches, and skull-shattering serrations shaped by pick-ups with her usual dependability.

 

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IMG_4446I discovered a new phenomenon: people living in trailers with a small utility building on their property.  Permanent pace for water and power, movable for people.

 

 

IMG_4449I traveled from mountains to foothills to rugged chaparral; one of the most beautiful rides of my trip. I had a good lunch break at the Raymond General Store, and then continued through ever-gentler hills, ever less vegetation. Twenty-five miles outside of Fresno I joined Highway 41, and was glad I didn’t take that busy road the entire route.

IMG_4450The most challenging cycling is always getting into and out of major cities, but Fresno set a new standard for confusion. When 41 turned into a freeway, I was diverted onto Business 41. A few turns, no markings, and I was heading west on Avenue 9 in the company of inpatient drivers. I about faced. A river separated me from the city. My map showed Avenue 9 crossing under the freeway where an old bridge spanned the water, but the road did not exist. Instead, there’s a new children’s hospital. At the far end of campus I spotted a bike path. I needed to get on that! Unfortunately a tall fence divided me from my desire. Eventually, I accessed the bike path by cutting through the hospital’s helipad. Against the rules, for sure; possibly against some law, but it got me onto the path, over the bridge, and into Fresno.

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I saw my first olive trees, which are a beautiful silvery green. Across the road a huge development was under construction. If we don’t have enough water to grow crops, we can pave the groves.

IMG_4456South of the river, everything was sun and palm trees. Fresno is my first place with a Southern California vibe: wide streets, big cars, harsh sun and expansive ranch houses that march on for miles. A new variation on the American Dream, and so very appealing.

 

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Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

HWWLT Logo on yellowHow will we live tomorrow?

“I’m just living the dream.”

Shade, contractor for high climbing work on bridges and towers, home base: Mammouth, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I like this proverb: Take it easy. Drink plenty of water. Go in peace.”

Art Rollo, pick-up truck driver, Janesville, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Capital is celebrated over creativity. The capitalist elite is the new aristocracy. Religion is the means of subjugating the masses. The societies that have broken away, like Scandinavia, demonstrate that rational decisions create strong societies. The obsession with religion in this country is dragging us down.”

Nicholas Kazan, author of Under the Juggernaut of History and Religion, Reno, NV

How will we live tomorrow?

“I took your question in a political sense. I don’t know how we’ll live when one or our two political parties is intent on bringing us to war over and over again.

The Cuban Missile Crisis was the single most frightening even of my childhood. It was the first time I saw adults frightened. Now, war is constant.”

Bryan, gay activist, Plains MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“I will live like it’s my last day on earth. I am going through cancer treatment.”

Laurie, manager, Yosemite Bug, Midpines, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“We don’t know what we are doing. We don’t care who we kill and what we kill. It’s just about the almighty dollar.”

Kevin, pancake maker, Plains MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“I think it will be better. I’m optimistic.”

Rick Kane, Retired Air Force Engineer, Gardiner, NV

How will we live tomorrow?

“I want to work in local agriculture. I want to be part of the seed swap to archive plant varieties and spread heirloom seeds.”

Peter, cross-country cyclist, Plains MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully with more respect for the earth and its people.”

Melanie Thornton, warmshowers host, Wenatchee, WA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Technology will solve our problems. It creates problems, but it solves them.”

Matt Jackson, computer programmer, Wenatchee, WA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Day by day. I keep my carbon footprint to a minimum.”

Katie Berkowitz, St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, Crescent City, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Having just hiked the John Muir Trail, I had time to ruminate. I am going to spend more time to focus inward.”

Lee Cothern, Healthcare IT, Yosemite, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Tomorrow I am working from eight to four.”

Barona Niguel, Guatemalan immigrant, housekeeper at The Atlantis, Reno, NV

Barona cleans sixty rooms per shift – eight minutes per room.

How will we live tomorrow?

“Same way.”

Lee Miles, tour bus driver, Yosemite, CA

“This is my last trip I’ve been doing it for 32 years. Time to quit.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“We will live tomorrow better than today.”

Mark, IT Consultant form Des Moines, IA in Yosemite, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Here is my definition of a dream job. Number one: I get to wear shorts. Number two: when I go away work does not pile up while I am gone.”

Kirk Koenig, University of Oregon staff, Eugene OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“I have a high degree of respect for personal privacy. I see technology as a threat.”

Rob, Shakespeare scholar, Wenatchee, WA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Not very well until we stop using petroleum and shift to hydrogen.”

Mike Sharp, dog owner, Janesville, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“The quick answer is easy. I don’t think much about it. The smart ass answer is same as today only different.”

Bob Quilitch, psychologist, Reno, NV

IMG_4323How will we live tomorrow?

“I will live tomorrow smiling and living in the present.”

Anna Gabriella Palotai, opening her first salon, Midtown Curls, Reno, NV

How will we live tomorrow?

“That’s a hard question… Abby will give a better answer than me… It’s way too early to think about that, we’ve been on since 5:30…I will say that Nevada is great. You can do things here you can’t do in other places.”

Kalee, Abby, and Liz, waitresses at Red Hut, Carson City, NV

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully we will all get along.”

Jimmy Little, Owner of Virginia Creek Lodge, Bridgeport, CA

 

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Trip Log – Day 147 – Carson City, NV to Bridgeport, CA

Carson City to BridgeportSeptember 29, 2015 – Overcast, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 88

Miles to Date: 7,766

States to Date: 25

 ‘The usual’ at Red Hut Cafe in Carson City is the definitive carb load: a pair of sunny side fried eggs with hashbrowns plus biscuits with gravy. After that fuel, I was ready to roll back into California, along the eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas.

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The best way to appreciate mountains on a bicycle is to glide beside them rather than pedal through them. Today I got my preferred arrangement at the start and end of my day. Carson Valley is broad and flat, with dynamic mountains rising to the west. The shoulder on US 395 is good, so I focused to my left and hardly noticed all the traffic on the busy road.

IMG_4351Minton is a cute town with a vintage gas station. In true Nevada fashion, it’s been renovated into a casino.

On my first rise of the day I stopped to shift from morning windbreaker mode to daytime sunblock mode when I ran into two senior citizens in a cruiser marked ‘Volunteer’. Turns out Douglas County has a full crew of retired police (or wannabe police) who volunteer to patrol the area, check on vacationer’s houses, and investigate suspicious VIN’s. Don and Nancy looked very official and clearly enjoyed keeping Nevada safe. Before I continued on, a local cyclist came upon me and recommended I stop at Walker Burger for lunch.

IMG_4357After that break, and anticipating a good burger, the ride over the ridge and into Antelope Valley was a breeze. Topaz Lake, on the Nevada/California border is spectacular. I’ve decided a cyclist can smuggle any kind of vegetable into California: today was my third pass through border inspection and I got a ritual wave through. I’d logged over 50 miles when I got to Walker Burger; I was hungry. Unfortunately, it’s closed on Tuesday. That left a general store with fewer choices than a 7-11. I opted for a favorite fallback when I need energy, calories, protein and hydration: a quart of chocolate milk plus a banana and a donut. It’s weird, but it covers all the bases.

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My improvised lunch did the trick. I climbed eighteen miles through a steep canyon, across sage-covered hills, and between jagged peaks before I crossed Devil’s Gate Pass and sailed twelve miles down to Bridgeport. Once again, I was treated to majestic mountains on my left as I rode along a verdant, level meadow.

IMG_4369My tent cabin at Virginia Creek Lodge was love at first sight. Why don’t other places have these? Super cute, affordable, clean, and functional. I settled in and enjoyed a good shower at the camp building. On my way to dinner, the sky shed the day’s grey clouds and glowed in the sunset. The lodge restaurant is quite good: I finally got that burger I’d craved all day.

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