Trip Log – Day 392 – Tallahassee FL to Mayo FL

to-mayoDecember 15, 2016 – Sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 79

Miles to Date: 20,522

States to Date: 48

You know you’ve been doing this a long time when fifty miles just isn’t enough.

img_8871I planned to ride to Perry, fifty miles from East Tallahassee. But the day was so fine. I arrived at noon, ate a big lunch, and realized Perry’s one of those in-between places – big enough for chain retail to squash local charm, too small for any notable attractions. So, I pedaled on to Mayo, small enough to wield lots of quirks. Cindy’s RV Park and Motel is a wonderful 50’s era joint run by a chain smoking guy from the Bronx who’s been in Florida so long, snow has melted into nothing but a bad dream.

img_8872Although California has the most auspicious trees in protected areas: redwoods, sequoias; I give Florida the prize for spectacular trees everywhere. I am dazzled by the logging pines, miles of tall, thin trunks planted in grids that cause the light to shimmer as I cycle by. They are countered by the live oak, massive meandering hulks that claim huge shadows of real estate. The forests are so varied; riding in the country here feels as diverse as cycling through most cities.

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Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

HWWLT Logo on yellowHow will we live tomorrow?

“My idea is a macro-micro house, comfortable for one or two people. It’s a large space with a loft. It minimizes footprint and maximizes usable space. About 600 square feet. It’s a small thing that contains all the conveniences you need.”

Ben, tiny house dweller, Newbern AL

“350 square feet is fine for me, but not for everyone. I don’t have a washing machine or a dishwasher. I am my own dishwasher.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“Seven. That’s my canned answer to everything.”

Dorian LaCaze, middle school dancer, Russellville AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“I find myself frequently asking that question. We were watching About Time.” It made me think of my life and what I’m doing. I’m 23 and there are so many things I want to do, but I don’t do them. I don’t know how I will live tomorrow, but I am open to the possibilities.”

Jasmine Remy, hospitality major, Russellville AR

How will we live tomorrow?

“Thankfully.”

Dixon Wise, fireside sitter, Jackson MS

How will we live tomorrow?

“How will we live tomorrow?  Perhaps how ‘should’ we live tomorrow? (please excuse the shift in question).. 

Smaller.  

Kinder.  

More accepting of our differences.  

More celebratory in our diversity. 

Closer to the land. 

More respectful.

More content with what we have.

Happier.

Less fearful…”

Miles Ford, sustainable builder, Seattle WA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Not very well if we don’t change our ways. I am very frightened for our children and our children’s children. That’s me on a personal basis.”

Teresa, National Park Service, Selma AL

How will we live tomorrow?

“It’s an intimidating question. I hope we all live with best intentions. I want us to lead our lives by seeing the connections between us.”

Abby, WOOFer, Marion Junction AL

How will we live tomorrow?

“It’s all here in this book, All the Wild that Remains. David Gessner compares Edward Abbey and Wallace Stegner. That pretty much covers it.”

Ray, intellectual who explained Edward Abbey and Wallace Stegner to me, Seaside FL

How will we live tomorrow?

“I don’t want to give a smart-ass answer cause I think there’s a lot to think about.

“If we don’t ignore it, with yesterday’s guidance.”

Joel, Best Buy clerk, Montgomery AL

How will we live tomorrow?

“I think things will get much better once Trump is in office, if the people will get behind him.”

Jerry, retired veteran, DeFuniak Springs, FL

How will we live tomorrow?

“Man, that is too far.”

Trey, Winn-Dixie cashier, Panama City Beach FL

How will we live tomorrow?

“Better than today. I want to learn from what I discovered today to make tomorrow better.”

Meg, receptionist, DeFuniak Springs, FL

How will we live tomorrow?

“By the Power of Love.”

Joe, with Huey Lewis playing in the background, Panama City Beach FL

How will we live tomorrow?

“I want to live in Costa Rica and go fishing and live in a hammock.”

Joe, other Joe’s dad, Panama City Beach FL

How will we live tomorrow?

“I try to live frugally. I try to conserve. I try to keep a low carbon footprint. Eventually I think we’re all going to have to do that. We can’t keep driving SUV’s all over town as we continue to burn fuel as we do.

I’d like to think that people don’t live to keep up with their neighbors. When I lived in LA that was the mindset, but I don’t agree that is everywhere.

“We cannot live in fear. I don’t have a TV. I don’t watch news. It changes our mindset about other people.”

Martin Oldfield, retired civil engineer, Seacrest FL

How will we live tomorrow?

“One of the reasons our country is so substantial, so much more economically successful than the rest of the world are our private property rights. If Trump will remain faithful to what he says and appoints Constitutionalists to the Court, we will see property rights bolstered and our economy will boom.

“There is nothing more suspicious than a ‘do gooder.’ Remember Reagan’s nine most dubious words, ‘I am from the government; I am here to help.””

Jake, studied law, Panama City Beach FL

 

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Trip Log – Day 391 – Tallahassee FL

to-tallahaseeDecember 14, 2016 – Rain, 65 degrees

Miles Today: 17

Miles to Date: 20,443

States to Date: 48

Sometimes the stars align even when clouds obscure them.

Before I started this journey I pinpointed Tallahassee in the hopes of meeting Kate & Andy Grosmaire and Julie & Michael McBride, four people whom I knew only through a January 2013 NY Times article about restorative justice.

In the past year I have not only become fearless in asking my question, I have also learned one can ask for anything, and if you ask with respect you just might get what you want. A few days ago I blind messaged Kate and Andy’s Facebook pages, explained my trip and that I would like to talk with them about tomorrow. This morning I woke to an invitation for dinner with both couples, so shifted my plans by a day.

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As good fortune would allow, it proved a perfect day to layover in this state capital and college town. Tom got some last push repairs at University Cycles, a terrific bike shop and I enjoyed barbeque at Jim and Milts.

imagesThough it rained most of the day, the skies were dry by late afternoon when I pedaled through Florida State University, where the football stadium of this National Championship ACC powerhouse dwarfs any other building on campus.

 

Miccosukee Road is one of the five ‘canopy greenways’ in the Tallahassee area. The road is preserved narrow to maintain the incredible overhead trees. Fortunately, vehicles were very accommodating to this bicyclist.

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Trip Log – Day 390 – Apalachicola FL to Tallahassee FL

to-tallahaseeDecember 13, 2016 – Fog & sun, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 88

Miles to Date: 20,426

States to Date: 48

Day breaks late on the western edge of the Eastern Time Zone. A foggy morning trickled into hazy noon. I rode for hours past phantom grey shapes suspended between land and sea. The towering pines were the sentinel anchors in a world where land and sea, horizon and sky coalesced into atmospheric soup.

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Profile Response: Jan and Paul Bradburn, Clovis NM

HWWLT Logo on yellowJan and Paul Bradburn are business people. They met in New York City in 1986 when Paul worked on Wall Street and Jan was at Fidelity. They owned the international franchise for Subway and TCBY for Ireland and ran those stores in Kilkerry.

When Jan’s mother got ill in her native Clovis, Jan returned to care for her. She got involved with the Workforce Training Center to educate and train unskilled workers. The Ireland business turned unsatisfying; they sold out. Paul came to Clovis, sight unseen, to live permanently. “This is not the place I would choose to live, but it grows on you. The people are so good.”

imagesJan’s work led to teaching at the local community college. Paul got an MBA at Eastern New Mexico State; he was offered a teaching position upon graduation. “What’s incredible about my journey is that I thought I was a big deal on Wall Street, then in running companies, but I’m happiest the past twelve years teaching.”

Jan shifted to teach at ENMS as well. She’s developed a course in ‘Social Economics’ to explore the economic implications of what people really care about: healthcare, sports, the environment, education. She’s also a fan of the dual-enrollment system that allows high school students to take college level courses, for credit, for free, while still in high school. “Students can get up to 45 hours of general education credits before they arrive on campus. That is a big savings.”

Last year, Paul had a large tumor removed from his brain: a twelve-hour operation, followed by another to thwart a hemorrhage. His recovery is excellent, but his memory has gaps. He stopped classroom teaching but still teaches online classes. Jan has also shifted to teaching only online.

images-1Paul explained the differences between teaching online versus in person. “I prefer to teach face-to-face. Business is about the numbers. If you don’t know the numbers you can’t control the business. Teaching math online, the students only get the book. Now, ENMS is offering combination classes where I go into a studio and record a lecture. Students can attend live in person, or watch real-time, or watch later. Some classes, like global business, are better suited to online application.”

The Internet not only allow ENMS students more options about how to learn, it enables people like Jan and Paul, both past age 65, to keep involved in their work at a level better suited to aging. They have converted the formal living room of their home to a work office and online teach at their own time and pace. Paul’s brain surgery has changed his habits; he’s become a regular afternoon napper. Working online allows him to accommodate that change. “When you’re young, sleep is your enemy. As you age, you embrace it.”

How will we live tomorrow?

screen-shot-2016-11-25-at-4-52-59-pm“With naps.” – Jan

“I am just proud to stand up and be here. What I’ll do tomorrow is what I did today.” – Paul

“Our goal is to teach better business and better ethics.” – Jan

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Trip Log – Day 389 – Panama City FL to Apalachicola FL

to-apalachicolaDecember 12, 2016 – Everything but snow, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 62

Miles to Date: 20,338

States to Date: 48

 Woke before dawn and gulped Adam’s instant coffee before heading out at first light to get to Apalachicola by two where I had a conversation scheduled. The weather had turned warm and still. The first few miles were so fine.

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Then, as happens when schedule intrudes, everything changed: clouds rolled in; the wind shifted to every direction; rain came down. It reached worrisome proportions just as I reached the apex of the

DuPont Bridge pickled alongside morning traffic to Tyndall AFB. When I reached the bottom of the bridge there was nowhere to go. The bike path ended, the traffic was swift. I stood in the downpour for a few minutes to assess options. There was a parallel access road on the other side of the divided highway, within the base proper. At a hiccup in the traffic I dashed across and mounted Tom past the ‘Warning – No Access’ sign. I decided that if I got stopped for trespassing in the rain on government land I would throw myself on the mercy of our benevolent military. Fortunately, no such histrionics were required, though I’m sure there is video footage of a soaking wet guy with yellow saddlebags pedaling across high security property.

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My service road turned into a sidewalk, then a cracked sidewalk, and then no sidewalk. By that time I had passed the main gates to Tyndall, so traffic was light. I trundled my bike back across US 98, which once again had the nice shoulder I value on Florida highways.

Oops, then I got a flat. A teeny tiny shard of metal. Very tricky to extract, but I did it.

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By ten I was sailing again. The rain dissipated and I made good time. I skipped the six-mile extension that hugged the coast, stayed on US 98 and savored its fresh blacktop. I reached Apalachicola before 2 p.m.

I first came to Apalachicola about seven years ago, when our firm won a project to design a new critical access hospital in this small town. The new hospital is still only a concept and the CEO is a new man, but Mike Cooper granted me an hour to talk about rural healthcare and tomorrow.

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By three the sun was bright, the air warm and I explored the Oyster Capital of the World, meandering through downtown and out to Papa Joe’s where I once enjoyed the best oysters ever on picnic tables overlooking sea grass and fishing boats. Oh, no! Closed!

img_8803Turns out Papa Joe’s only moved. The new place is not nearly so authentic, but the raw oysters are still the best in the world. I topped them off with a Po’ Boy, fries and a Yuengling because, well, after riding sixty miles, raw oysters are mighty tasty but not all that filling. The combo though, is a complete winner.

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Profile Response: Theresa McCulla and Brian Goldstein, Albuquerque NM

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowTheresa McCulla and Brian Goldstein met as undergraduates at Harvard where each developed academic expertise in niche studies of American history. Brian is an architectural historian who focuses on the social and economic implications of what we build. His research on the history of urban development in Harlem in the late 20th century was recently published as The Roots of Urban Renaissance. Theresa is a doctoral student in American Studies who researches the food culture of New Orleans.

zHow a Cincinnati boy and Virginia girl who studied New York City and New Orleans from Cambridge, MA wound up in Albuquerque is representative of academia’s geographic pinball. Brian is in the third year of a tenure-tract position at University of New Mexico. Their personal ‘tomorrow’ will follow the complex path of many dual-academic couples that try to find one place for both of them to pursue their passion. But their responses to my question transcend their particular situation.

How will we live tomorrow?

screen-shot-2016-11-25-at-4-43-12-pm“One thing historians note is that we tend to think cyclically. Humans are improving all the time. We downplay the present and reminisce about the past. I hope tomorrow will be better, but we will continue to be shortsighted. It is hard for people to long-term plan. But when someone is in pain we are apolitical. We lend a hand. The lesson of history is that we’re always improving, and always getting worse.” – Brian

“I have two thoughts. At the big scale we are going to experience the effects of climate change. We are seeing that with catastrophic storms but also when certain fish are no longer on the menu. The second is related to the election. It is highlighting fundamental differences. The America of the future is going to look very different than it has, and that is good.” – Theresa

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Trip Log – Day 388 – Seaside FL to Panama City FL

to-panama-cityDecember 10, 2016 – Sun and clouds, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 31

Miles to Date: 20,276

States to Date: 48

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Daybreak was overcast but the sun made itself known throughout the day, sometimes at a distance, sometimes with a direct shine. I took a morning walk on the beach in Seacrest, the highest portion of dunes along the panhandle.

img_8759The bike path on Scenic Route 30A follows a steady stretch down the socio-economic ladder of summer fun from affluent Seaside to tacky Panama City Beach. New Urbanism is eclipsed by drunken consumerism in beach shops that hawk 25,000 bathing suits for $1 each and happy hours that run from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. I suppose if you drink that much you don’t know what time is it anyway.

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After a long writing break I rode into Panama City proper and met my wonderful host Adam who prepared me a fine meal, played his hand crafted didgeridoo, shared the marvels of the universe.

imagesThen Adam took me to Ms. Newby’s his favorite bar. In true Panama City Beach style, it is open from 7 a.m. until 4 a.m. Adam explained that a few customers just loiter on the beach for those three hours and then return to start their day with a fresh beer. You gotta love this country.

 

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Profile Response: CB, Santa FE NM

 

HWWLT Logo on yellow“We have an absolute way to measure a person’s consumption: How much do you spend? The correlation is pretty perfect. I like that I live inexpensively. Living on public land for free is very low impact on our environment.”

I met CB, and his friends Randy and Barb, on a large tract south of Santa Fe where a longtime friend of Randy’s lets the trio park their RV’s for extended periods. The three itinerant RV dwellers each occupy their own trailer but usually camp near each other. Sometimes they share meals. Often they make music. They consider themselves a band. “A band is a group of people that is small enough not to have a leader.”

img_7713CB began trailer life at 9:09 a.m. on September 9, 2009 when he pulled his used 2007 Airstream away from the house he sold in Atlanta. Aside from two daughters, whom he sees often in his travels, CB never mentioned any aspect of his past life. His focus is on current mode.

CB explained his rig: solar-panels on his truck for electricity; propane for the refrigerator, stove, and heater; a 39 gallon fresh water tank that recycles grey water and then black water. “As soon as you get off the grid, you realize that conservation is key.” CB is an electronics junkie. “If it doesn’t take space on my hard disc, plug into the wall, or use batteries, I probably don’t want it.” Still, he uses less than 1 kwH of power a day, about thirty cents worth.

 

Randy, Barb, and CB’s life is a grand scale board game; an ongoing search for places that provide warm climate, good scenery, solar, and Internet access. “There are only three places that are sure to be warm in mid-January: South Florida, South Texas, and Arizona/Southern California. Of those, only Arizona and the California desert have public lands where we can camp.”

img_7715The band often camp on National Forest land, where people can camp for up to fourteen days straight before they have to move. “There is no value in thwarting the law. It’s pretty generous. If people flaunt the law, they might make more regulations, such as registering where we park.”

A person is not allowed to live full-time in a National Park or National Forest; you must have a permanent address. CB uses his sister’s home address. “We are not on vacation. We are not needing to see the sites. We are at home with movement.” They had been in Santa Fe for over two weeks during the Albuquerque balloon fest, but never managed to get down there this year.

CB lives the way he does by choice, the fact that it’s more sustainable than most Americans’ lives is a secondary benefit. “If you are willing to live on few resources, you are doing everyone a favor.”

CB’s teaching himself the bass. He plays along with Garage Band, at peace in his small space. Are there any downsides to his nomadic Airstream life? “The biggest complication is the whole girlfriend thing.”

How will we live tomorrow?

 img_7717“I believe we live at the peak of civilization and it’s downhill from here. There is one issue, overpopulation, that transgresses all others. From an anthropological perspective, say a million years, what we have is ridiculously fragile. Something will go wrong, probably triggered by humans. There are too many people, too much poverty, too few resources.

“There is this personal connection with having children, thus so many people. There is nothing greener a person can do than have no children. If there were one billion people on this planet we wouldn’t have global warming. Sustainability can be achieved either from way fewer people or a much lower standard of living. If everyone lived like we do in the United States, we’d use five times as many resources. Our continued prosperity depends on their continued poverty. Everything comes from that.

“The major, room temperature, progresses in science have been discovered. The 21st century will not have the same advances. It is irresponsible to continue to believe that technology will solve our problems.

“It irks me how religious people create a special perspective. It comes from the perspective that the world is made for us. If we come from that perspective, we are done.

“I can construct positive scenarios for the future, but they are not realistic.”

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Trip Log – Day 387 – Andalusia AL to Seaside FL

to-seasideDecember 10, 2016 – Sun, 50 degrees

Miles Today: 98

Miles to Date: 20,245

States to Date: 48

 img_8727Florida!! State #48!!

I couldn’t decide if I was happier to get to my 48th state or get the heck out of Alabama, a state whose sweet demeanor and excellent food is blunted by lousy shoulders and motorists who ignore cyclists at every turn. Either way, it was a great day to head south and escape colder temperatures.

When I passed Lakewood – the highest elevation in Florida at a whopping 345 feet above sea level – I realized my days of climbing are fully behind me.

img_8731DeFuniak Springs was founded as a Winter Chautauqua and has a lovely round lake surrounded by cottages and the impressive meetinghouse. The town is also famous for McLain’s buffet restaurant, a welcome break for a hungry cyclist on a long day.

As soon as I passed south of I-10 travel turned super smooth. US 331 is still under construction, but most of it is fresh blacktop with a dedicated bike lane. I reached the beach by 3 p.m. and then tootled down Scenic 30A along a very nice bike path, mostly empty on a December afternoon.

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I spent some time in Seaside, a 1980’s era planned community often credited for spurring the term ‘New Urbanism.’ low-rise, high density, mixed use. Everything old becomes new. Seaside Florida is really not that different from Seaside NJ, and virtually identical to the nineteenth century Ocean Grove NJ, except that the Florida version is polished and tony.

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Still, I do not want to sell Seaside short. The development dates from 1981 and signals a departure from the isolated oceanfront towers typical of Florida beaches in the 1960’s and 70’s. Seaside doesn’t seem so innovative today in large part because so much that has come after emulates it. Yet, as I pedaled through adjacent communities modeled on Seaside’s success, none of them achieve Seaside’s level of planning, architecture or community. Seaside really slows the car down; it puts pedestrians and cyclists on par with the vehicles. It is too upscale and resort-like to be a realistic town, but the scale is very good. Later communities, sometimes gated, almost all with more private space, copy Seaside’s bric-a-brac vocabulary but miss the main point – which is to celebrate connecting with others rather than maximizing the private view.

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