Trip Log – Day 233 – Houston, TX

to HoustonFebruary 16, 2016 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 16

Miles to Date: 11,852

States to Date: 28

I rose with the sun and pedaled to the campus of Rice University, which ranks as one of the most attractive campuses of my trip. Boston architect Ralph Adams Cram came to Houston to design the campus over a hundred years ago. He developed an axial plan and eclectic Mediterranean style for the buildings such in polychrome and fantasy. He also lined the walks with live oaks which, although apparently not native to this area, have become signature landscape features.

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The campus continued to develop along strict lines except for one sad addition, a 1940’s library that bisects the quad. Fortunately, Rice built two superb structures in the early 2000’s to mitigate the mess. Near the backside of the unfortunate library they built The Pavilion, a crisp white and glass space for hanging out. The simple form creates an airy indoor area, covered outdoor spaces, and extensive gardens. Though small in footprint, it manages to mask the library. At the far end of the long space Rice terminated the quad with a respectable School of Music Building, in the traditional Rice style, and then set James Terrill’s Skyspace in front of it, an echo the Pavilion’s taut whiteness. The two modernist elements are the exclamation points that make the entire ensemble coherent.

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IMG_6079I enjoyed a trio of fascinating conversations. Ron Sass, Fellow for Climate Change at the Baker Institute and Rice Professor Emeritus met me at The Pavilion to talk about energy from the global to the molecular. I pedaled over to City Hall to meet Lisa Lin, Houston’s Sustainability Manager. Finally I walked across the plaza to the imposing One Shell Place to talk with Lyman Paden, attorney and partner at Baker Bott as well as an old high school friend who’s savvy to the comings and goings of his adopted hometown.

Then I cycled to the other side of town and stayed with a bartender and his girlfriend who prefer their unpretentious Mexican neighborhood to Houston’s hipster precincts.

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Profile Response: Claire and Bob Rogers, Tucson, AZ

HWWLT Logo on yellow“This is a throw away house. We are here for the community, not the place.” That’s Bob Rogers’ description of the 400 square foot Park Model he and his wife Claire purchased, used, for $4500 in 2004. At the time, lot rental in Far Horizons RV Park was $2500 per year, which included the covered patio/carport and storage shed. Now, rent is twice that and newer models sell for $50,000 or more. When Claire and Bob decide to sell, they’ll have to move the unit. “The management won’t let you sell old models that stay here. We’ll get $3500 from someone who wants to use it for scrap or a poor family will park it outside of town.”

 

Claire and Bob used to live in a conventional house outside of Seattle. “We had a fabulous 2500 square foot house with a view of the San Juan Mountains. We traded it for this. We haven’t missed it.”

IMG_5459They find it easy to conserve resources living in a small space within a larger community. For instance, they use the community building showers, which are more generous than the one in their Park Model. As a result, they don’t need to run the hot water heater in their unit. When they need water to wash dishes, they warm a pitcher in the microwave.

Claire and Bob met at an Audubon meeting in 1987; Bob was 42, Claire 22. “Claire said she was saving up to go to Africa. I thought, ‘I’m going with her.’” It took Bob awhile to woo her, but they went to Africa together and have been together ever since. Claire is an adventurous soul who loves to sweat and sleep outside. “So many men have told me, ‘you re the luckiest man in the world.’ I know that.”

Bob was a teacher for one year. Otherwise he worked in sales and as an independent photographer. Claire is a freelance writer who writes nature and science articles for Desert Leaf. She’s never had a conventional job.

IMG_5452Claire and Bob leave their Park Model whenever they want. They travel all over the world, usually by bicycle – 44,000 miles on their tandem to date. For Bob’s 70th birthday, they cycled the highest road in the world, over 18,000 high in Tibet. Bob relayed the story of a woman they came upon in Tibet. Her cow had two broken legs. “In our country we would pray to Jesus to heal it or shoot the cow to put it out of its misery. In Tibet, the woman sat before the cow, fed it precious grass, and sang Buddhists chants to ease its passage to death.”

“I couldn’t have done the traveling I’ve done without Claire. We meet solo bicycle travelers who are riding 100 miles a day. It’s just them and the bike. That is too isolating for me.”

The couple is not sure where their next tip will be. Bob’s father is getting old and may need more care, so they are staying close by for now.

How will we live tomorrow?

“We live our life today the way we hope to live tomorrow. Simpler, smaller. We live well with less footprint and less money.

“There’s a conflict between cycling and flying to where we cycle. I haven’t reconciled it. I just believe that there is such value in getting to know the people of the world the way we do on our bike.

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“Look at this house. It’s made of aluminum and foam. Another house would be more energy efficient, but we’ll never use enough energy to operate this house to offset the embodied energy it would take to build a new one.” – Bob

“We started on our first trip around the US in 1995-1996. I am wondering how things have changed in twenty years. I am happy that there are still good people out these. We still treat our near neighbors badly; that’s true throughout the world. We travelled through Azerbaijan to Georgia to Turkey. Each country focuses on how different they are from each other. Marking our differences makes us seem more different than we are.

“We have to step back from the edge, but we all have to do it together.” – Claire

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Trip Log – Day 232 – The Woodlands, TX to Houston, TX

to HoustonFebruary 15, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 44

Miles to Date: 11,836

States to Date: 28

Riding through the exurbs of any American city is the least enjoyable part of my journey. Pedaling forty-four miles into Houston, the fifth largest metropolitan area, fastest growing among the top twenty, and notoriously ill willed toward cyclists, was simply a chore.

In order to gauge my progress across this featureless landscape littered with attention grabbing signage, I decided to stop at every five-mile interval and photograph whatever I saw at that point; a game we played in graduate school photography class. Can you find patterns in this urban cacophony?

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Five miles

10

Ten miles

15

Fifteen miles

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Twenty miles

25

Twenty-five miles

30

Thirty miles

35

Thirty-five miles

40

Forty miles

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Profile Response: Ken Shrensel, Manager of Far Horizons, Tucson, AZ

HWWLT Logo on yellowKen Shrensel spent most of his career in hotel management. Six years ago he saw an ad to manage Far Horizons RV Park, applied, and got the job. “I’ve only spent one night of my life in an RV, but I thought it would be less stressful than running a hotel. I like it. It’s less corporate.”

Far Horizons RV Park opened over forty years ago. The park has 514 sites for motor homes, trailers, and ‘Park Models’, mini-mobile homes up to 400 square feet that are movable in theory, but in fact are quite secure. “We have up to 1000 residents in the winter, since most are couples, but only about 150 people live here in summer.” In winter, the staff grows to twenty people, three or four focus on activities for the residents, all of whom are 55 or older. “We have one family with a grandfather, father and grandson; and the grandson is over fifty-five. That means the grandfather is pretty old.”

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People rent sites by the night, week, or month ($43 / $245 / $700 per RV in high season). Park models pay about $5000 a year for their plot, which includes a concrete patio, a metal storage shed, and a set of wooden steps to access the dwelling. Most park models are permanent; they enclose the apron beneath the unit and add a shed roof to create a carport.

IMG_5455Far Horizons is a top shelf RV park. The activities building includes a large community room for lectures and dances, arts and crafts studios, a large pool, outdoor kitchen and laundry/ shower facilities, all of which augment the tiny private spaces found in Patio Models.

I ask Ken how Far Horizons has changed. “It used to be more RV’s, now there are many more Patio Models. We have more young people, closer to age 55. They are more active. Our activities reflect that. Recently we added pickleball, zumba, and an outdoor fitness area.”

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_5451“We will downsize. The days of the McMansion are ending. I live in a 1500 square foot house. It’s easier to inhabit than a larger house; easier to maintain. The tiny house movement is gaining traction.”

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Profile Response: Carol Veilleux and Eulee Yang; Tucson, AZ

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowThe paths and intersections of Eulee Yang’s and Carol Veilleux’s lives illustrate that we cannot know what experiences will prove defining at the moment they occur. Rather, if we remain open to whatever life offers, the people and places that resonate with us find their way into the fabric of our lives; sometimes many years later.

Carol loved cycling in her native Maine. In 1974 she embarked on a coast-to-coast trip. “This was before long distance cycling was popular. People thought I was crazy.” After reaching the West Coast, Carol came through Tucson. She immediately liked the place, though she continued on and didn’t return for many years.

imagesA friend cajoled Eulee into riding the weeklong Cycle Oregon. Eulee enjoyed riding, but was disturbed by the imbalance between men and women, both in the saddle and in camp. She started Luna Tours, a company that organized women’s cycling rides. “Luna Tours was not about proving anything. It was about coming together and travelling at our own pace.” Eulee became a bicycle enthusiast until she suffered a concussion in an accident nine years ago that resulted in chronic balance issues.

Carol and Eulee met in San Francisco in the 1980’s. Carol laughs as she says, “We felt a connection, but we were with other partners, so we went our own ways.” Ten years passed before they met again; at which time each was single. They have been together ever since.

imgres-2Eulee and Carol lived in Bozeman MT and were involved in the Buddhist community there. The person who owned the Buddhist Center property needed to sell it, so they purchased it to ensure the center’s continuance and lived there for several years. However, the after effects of Eulee’s concussion as well as Carol’s increasing back problems from an accident, exacerbated giving birth to their son Eli, forced them to reconsider living in such a harsh place. They moved to Tucson, a welcome place in Carol’s memory, and return to Bozeman every summer.

imgresTucson has proved positive for their family. Eli recently graduated high school and is taking a gap year in Guatemala before starting college. Eulee and Carol have taken advantage of a range of Eastern and Western medicine to address their medical conditions. Eulee, a physician, is fascinated by neuroplasticity. The day we met, she was deep into Norman Doidge’s The Brain that Changes Itself. After eighteen years, Carol has stopped taking any narcotics for back pain. Her path to being medication-free included prolotherapy, meditation, spiritual practice, pain treatment, acupuncture, and herbal treatments by the Tibetan Doctor Dickey. “The pain / pleasure circuits are the same pathways. If you can find pleasure through the pain, that can reduce pain.”

Carol has a high opinion of Tibetan medical traditions. She told a story of two Tibetan men studying to be doctors. A patient came with a chronic condition. He was poor, and paid for treatments with fresh baked bread. The students had two different herbal remedies available, one treated the symptoms, the other alleviated the disease. One of the students loved the bread, so he gave the patient the palliative herbs, rather than the curative ones. The patient would be comfortable but also continue to bring bread. The other student insisted timgres-1he patient be given the curative herbs. The student who dispensed only the palliative was let go from his studies. “To be a doctor in Tibet, one needs a Karmic connection. The best Tibetan doctors are so humble. They are about alleviating all suffering. They don’t want to add to it.”

The story is simple, and obvious. Yet within our own medical system, how often is treatment skewed to benefit the parties who make money.

It’s been more than forty years since Carol first came to Tucson. She came and left, met Eulee and went separate ways, united, built a life together, raised a son, suffered parallel conditions and found ways through their pain. Back in Tucson.

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_5445“Western religion looks at the differences rather than the similarities. The Tibetan Lama will tell you that every path is a good path. I hope the East and West can meet on spiritual ground. Can we make our connections based on our commonalities rather than on aggression?” – Carol

“I pray that we can all live in peace and harmony with our families and friends. I hope that can spread to the entire world. I think that is not a pipe dream. We are all the same. Your happiness and my happiness is the same. We act like there is a finite amount of happiness. But there is infinite happiness.” – Eulee

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Trip Log – Day 231 – College Station TX to The Woodlands, TX


to The WoodlandsFebruary 14, 2016
– Cloudy, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 75

Miles to Date: 11,792

States to Date: 28

My cycling Sunday began with a carb fest at my motel: oatmeal, raisin bran, sweet buns, and a machine that poops out pancakes. I definitely prefer the flip waffle maker, but I gave the pancakes a try. That breakfast fueled me over fifty miles through low-lying swamp,; cattle, goat and Brahmin ranches, rolling hills, and East Texas forests beneath dramatic clouds.

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Screen Shot 2016-02-15 at 12.45.24 PMAbout fifty miles north of Houston I came up against exurban development. The prices of custom built home advertisements illustrated that this is pretty high rent part of the metropolis. But I still found plenty of down home Texas. I took a break among a group of guys with loud, revved muscle cars, mostly Mustangs. They drag raced down a Farm-to-Market road. I was surprised they were spinning cars along public pavement on a Sunday afternoon, though I appreciated that they picked a length of super smooth blacktop. I imagine their fun ended soon after I passed, as the Sheriff I saw heading their way after I left was zooming their way mighty fast.

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I approached The Woodlands in time for a writing break, where I encountered my first open carry cowboy in Texas. His piece was rather modest, but a McDonald’s doesn’t require the same firepower as a saloon.

imagesThe Woodlands is a 1970’s era planned community that emphasizes the natural environment to the point of confusion. It’s also huge. For almost ten miles, loblolly pines dominate every winding road and serpentine bike path. Commercial signs are tiny, houses and apartments are hidden. I got where I needed to be by luck more than compass. Everything in this parcel of former swamp looks pretty much the same.

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Trip Log – Day 230 – College Station TX

to College StationFebruary 13, 2016 – Cloudy, 65 degrees

Miles Today: 16

Miles to Date: 11,717

States to Date: 28

To understand the pivotal relationship that College Station TX has played in my life requires suspension of rational thought and action. Are you game?

Screen Shot 2016-02-13 at 7.56.51 PMBefore I was born, before my parents were married, before my father fought in World War II, Mickey Fallon was a fresh recruit, a wannabe gunner. The army sent him to College Station for a few weeks training. He was enthralled by Aggieland.

My father went on 52 bombing missions over Germany, returned to his construction roots rather than get a GI Bill education, married a beautiful though incompatible woman, and banged out a bunch of kids. I am number four.

imgresThrough my youth, my seat at our kitchen table in Toms River, New Jersey, was crammed against the wall beneath a gigantic map of the United States. A thumbtack marked College Station, Texas. The taller I grew, the closer I got to Texas A&M.

 

My father, despite his own disinterest in college, wanted all of his sons to be Aggies. My oldest brother was accepted and joined the Corps of Cadets. Number Two didn’t have the grades, but my dad arranged for him to go to a Texas junior college that might serve as a feeder. By the time my sister went to a state school in nearby Nacogdoches, there were more Fallon kids in Texas then not. Dad put the pressure on mom to make the move to the Lone Star State. He almost simages-3ucceeded. Mom agreed to leave New Jersey but refused to suffer the Texas heat. So, my parents negotiated a latitudinal meeting point along the 100th meridian, which is how they wound up moving my little brother and me to Norman, Oklahoma in 1973. If you find logic in this process, welcome to my family.

My oldest brother dropped out of the Corps, and then out of A&M completely. My next brother never completed junior college. My sister escaped Texas by marrying her high school sweetheart. Still married 45 years later, she made a good choice.

images-1My father never found his stride in Oklahoma. His business faltered. My mother went to work. She gained confidence. His dream dwindled. I never even applied to Texas A&M. Instead I returned back East, among the elites my father disdained.

Eventfully my parents divorced. Dad returned to New Jersey and married a young woman who made him very happy. Meanwhile all the other people he displaced stayed in Oklahoma or migrated further West.

IMG_6029Today was Aggieland Day at Texas A&M. I spent the morning in Memorial Union surrounded by eager high school students exploring this spirited place. It was easy to see what my father wanted for us. Texas A&M is a place of individual excellence and collective strength; bursting with pride of purpose.

One could discount my father’s dream as a failure; none of his sons are Aggies. But that sprawling map on the wall of my childhood kitchen was my first introduction to the breadth of this amazing country. It triggered the idea that the United States could, and should, be explored. So here I am, seventy-five years after my father came to College Station, enthralled by the Aggies.

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Profile Response: Lucia Esparza, Tucson AZ

HWWLT Logo on yellowLucia Esparza might be called an accidental citizen. Her mother, from Sonora Mexico, took a temporary job wrapping holiday gifts at a department store in Nogales AZ over fifty years ago. One thing led to another, and she wound up working there most of her life. She never married or even mentioned Lucia’s father. She worked as a saleswoman, raised her daughter, and instilled in Lucia the importance of education. Although Lucia is a US citizen by birth, she has a strong Mexican identity and often visits her extended family in Sonora. “If my children don’t wind up in Tucson, I may retire to Sonora. Life is different in Mexico. You’re not isolated like here.”

After spending time with Lucia and witnessing her commitment to her children, I doubt she will wind up in Sonora. Rather, she seems more likely to follow her children where life leads them. When her oldest son Marcos took a bicycle trip from Portland, OR to LA before college, Lucia was worried about his route, his safety… everything. She told him, “If you don’t have a plan, I’ll follow you the entire way.” Needless to say, that motivated Marcos to develop a suitable plan. The generous hospitality that Marcos received on his trip induced Lucia to host long distance cyclists.

IMG_5439Lucia’s educational path was not straight, but it is comprehensive. Amidst getting married and having three children, she earned a pair of college degrees which led to working in a cell immunology lab, becoming a research nurse, being a floor nursing in a burn unit, and administering Tucson’s poison control program. Then she went back to school again. Now, Lucia is a Nurse Practitioner with a specialty in geriatric care.

Lucia’s focus on education translated to her children, who all attended BASIS Tucson, the first BASIS Charter School in Arizona. Marcos graduated from MIT last June; he works with a start-up developing solar powered wells for developing countries. Daughter Sofia is at Northeastern Arizona University, and sixth grader Nico is juggles academics, soccer, and boy scouts in addition to being lead singer in a fledgling boy band. He does a righteous rendition of Coldplay’s ‘Paradise’.

search-2 search search-1Lucia recently remodeled her house. She ripped out the carpets, stained and polished the concrete floors, painted the walls in saturated blues, mango, and rust. Many of the vibrant walls are covered with photos of children, family, and friends. “I don’t really need all this space, but I have a lot of guests.” That’s an understatement. During the short time I spent with Lucia, seven people stopped by to visit, share food, tell stories, and laugh. Lucia’s children may be leaving, but her house is very full.

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_5431“The younger generation is going to save us. I take care of World War II and early Vietnam era people. They saved the world and then ruined everything. My generation is too late to make change, but my children are so tuned into the environment and each other. They are going to pull us out of this.”

 

 

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Trip Log – Day 229 – Rockdale, TX to College Station TX

to College StationFebruary 12, 2016 – Sunny, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 57

Miles to Date: 11,701

States to Date: 28

 I am deep in the heart of Texas. The land pulses with Lone Star pride, rolling with richness and strength. I pedaled twenty-five miles to Caldwell along picturesque FM 908, stopped for a delicious lunch at a Czech bakery, and continued on to College Station.

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IMG_6021I arrived at Texas A&M in time to visit the George Bush Presidential Library, number four along my presidential library route. I had been warned that the Bush library was a snoozer, and it is. There was little drama in George Bush’s life and there is none in his library. Why it is located at Texas A&M is a mystery – the man had no formal ties to this place. But he was hell bent on denying his East Coast roots. The opening line of the orientation film is, “There is a misconception that we were from the East Coast.” It’s an odd denial for a man born in Massachusetts, educated at Andover and Yale, whose father was a Senator from Connecticut. But if Presidential Libraries are about anything, they are about shaping a message for posterity. In the United States, we are unhindered by being ‘from’ the place we are born. We choose where we are from. Fixing his legacy in marble at Texas A&M is a logical extension of George Bush’s choice to be from Texas.

IMG_6022Texas A&M is a sprawling campus renowned for its Corps of Cadets, the original 12th man. Although the Corps is a minority of the student body, its presence permeates the place. On a Friday afternoon, I witnessed cadets running rucksack, marching in front of Kyle Stadium, and drilling on the Quad. The Memorial Union proclaims, ‘Loyalty’, ‘Integrity’, ‘Respect’ over each entrance. The Corps owns this place.

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Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

How will we live tomorrow?

“I get up every day for my dog.”

Susan Massa, Trader Joe’s customer, Austin, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“Tomorrow is Aggieland Saturday. My day is mandated.

Cadet Faukhaber, student, College Station, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“By the Word of God. We are on a fifth trumpet right now. The Antichrist is the sixth, God comes on the seventh.”

JC, cashier, H-E-B, Del Rio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“This is Texas. I am a democrat with a gun.”

Susan Negly, Jungian Psychologist, San Antonio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“I am fortunate to have a job today. Tomorrow I will live in the Word of the Lord.”

Israel, chicken roaster, H-E-B, Del Rio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“Peace can only come as a byproduct of universal enlightenment.”

Ian Young, quoting Nicolai Tesla, Del Rio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“Peacefully would be a nice thought.”

Lisa, ultramarathon support staff, Del Rio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“We’re used to living the same routine. We treat tomorrow like another day. But it might not always be the case. Someday tomorrow is going to be different, or it might not come at all.”

Valerie, San Antonio General Store, San Antonio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“As best we can.”

Michael, Days Inn desk clerk, San Antonio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“According to the book, How the Rich are Destroying the World, we must immediately change our methods of distribution and transportation. I would add construction. We need to build Pablo Solieri’s Arocsanti. Otherwise environmental destruction will occur on a change we cannot imagine. More people will die than in World War II.”

Rick Backer, guy with lamb chop sideburns, Austin, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“What are we going to do today?”

Patricia, San Antonio Arts Foundation, San Antonio, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“I am living only for today… Human beings were not meant just to pay bills and die. I’m not going to do it any more… I want to spend a year with no shoes on… I wake up every morning with zero dollars and go to bed with zero dollars, but I in between I live well… I’m 34 but I feel like I’m five… Start with a good intention and it will always take care of you and your own needs in the end… Everything is so cool… For thirty-four years I never really lived… Now I am.”

David, hitchhiking and freight training from Tampa to California, and eventually Guatemala, Austin, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“For each other.”

Eddie, hitchhiker from West Coast, Austin, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“I try not to think about tomorrow.”

Adam, clerk at Whataburger, Austin, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“You’re asking me? I will be enthusiastic.”

Emily, George Bush Library, College Station, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“I will work to make the world a better place.”

Manuel, George Bush Library, College Station, TX

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’m sure everyone you talk to thinks they are right.”

Randy Atkins, Round Rock ISD, Austin TX

 

 

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