Trip Log – Day 206 – McNeal, AZ to Portal, AZ

McNeal to PortalJanuary 20, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 77

Miles to Date: 10,579

States to Date: 26

Today was a banner day for cycle touring. The weather was perfect for my long ride from McNeal to Portal, via Douglas, but I enjoyed many long, gentle descents and had the wind was at my back most of the day.

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I explored the town of Douglas, whose declining downtown is anchored by the Gadsen Hotel, named for the Ambassador to Mexico who added this area to the United States as part of the Gadsen Purchase of 1854. Douglas enjoyed a heyday as a smelting town for the nearby Bisbee copper mines, and has many vintage early twentieth century houses to mark that period of prosperity.

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The climb up Guadalupe Pass is a gentle six to eight miles along Arizona 80, followed by many more miles of gentle descents to the New Mexico border. I met a pari of heavy loaded cyclists heading the other direction and I stopped at the Geronimo Obelisk, commemorating the 1886 end of the Indian Wars. I pedaled over the state line to Rodeo, NM where I took a break at the cafe before veering back into Arizona to stay with my Portal host.

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With several more long days on the horizon it’s nice to fantasize that every long distance day could be this easy, but that’s unrealistic. Better to savor this one day gift of easy cycling.

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Profile Response: Matthew Cazalas, Spring Valley, CA

HWWLT Logo on yellowI made a note in the margins of my notebook, “Matt is my kindred father.” In truth, he’s only a few years older than me, which makes him my kindred older brother. Either way, his story is my story, a few years further along. I am still in the midst of my bicycle adventure. He has completed his, which gives him the perspective of hindsight.

Matt divorced in 1991, a few years before I did. He diverted his career while his two children were growing up. Ditto. Once they were established he embarked on a bicycle odyssey. He travelled for three years, over 30,000 miles throughout the United States. “The bike is like a magic wand. It brings out the best in people. It opens doors to people’s houses and their minds.” I started with a route defined by social and economic hotspots. He began with an itinerary of landscapes. “I set out with expectations, but what I didn’t expect was the amazing vignettes. It’s really about the people. Everyone has their own story. Every morning I couldn’t wait to get going. I knew something remarkable would happen.”

imagesMatt’s trip was longer than mine, and didn’t have the 48-state structure. “I never went to New Jersey. Nothing drew me there.” Toward the end of his journey his sister Michelle asked him to move to San Diego and help her run the medical practice she’d bought. Matt returned to full-time work; he lives in her big house. “I felt so transformed by my trip, I wanted to know if I could ever reintegrate into mainstream life. Eventually I did. I forgot the feeling of a warm shower after a long day and just how good cold water can feel on my face. Now I get bent out of shape when my Starbucks is late. Everything fades.”

How will we live tomorrow?

Screen Shot 2015-12-20 at 9.29.49 AM“It depends on where you want to focus your thoughts, on social, environmental, political, or economic issues. We have so many ills. Consider economic misallocations; they are getting worse Consider the environment. If you choose the rosy outlook, people are depending on tech to work our way out of this. But we are ruining the oceans, depleting the forests and poisoning our land.

“I think it is tough to be an optimist. I am an advocate for gun control. Look at Sandy Hook. That should be an event to create change. But it didn’t. That’s what makes me think the future will be bleaker. We keep putting things off. There is no political system or legal system. Money runs everything.

“When you’re touring you don’t see the news everyday. You’re focused on your ride, your climb. That’s your world. But in reality, the world sucks.

“It’s going to take some Messiah to come along and get people’s attention. Who can do it? Gandhi couldn’t; presidents can’t. It has to be a religious person that changes people’s minds. But I haven’t given up hope.”

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Trip Log – Day 205 –Bisbee, AZ to McNeal, AZ

Bisbee to McNealJanuary 19, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 27

Miles to Date: 10,502

States to Date: 26

Today I was a tourist! Spent the entire morning hanging out at the Copper Queen Hotel then emerged to explore Bisbee. I spent a few hours touring the galleries and great Western storefront architecture. I partcularly enjoyed Jason Kihl’s work at Metalmorphosis Gallery and talking with Vincent Wicks who stirred things up a bit at his new Vincente’s Fine Art Gallery with his show, Men… Nude, Naked and Undressed.

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IMG_5498I left town around three for the mostly downhill ride to McNeal. I stayed with father/son warmshowers hosts who live in a rural Quaker community in the gorgeous Sulpher Spring Valley.

 

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Profile Response: Michael Williams, Carlsbad, CA

HWWLT Logo on yellowWhat do you look for when buying a house? Good schools? Picturesque views? Granite counters? Off-Street parking? When Michael Williams, former Treasurer of the City of Colton, was looking for a place to retire he reviewed a city’s financial statements, evaluated the number of potholes, and made sure the library was open every day, all signs of fiscal health. “Living in an economically sound place gets more important as we age. If I have heart pains, I want to know the ambulance will come.”

Michael was a child of the 60’s. “I saw Jimi Hendrix live.” In 1970 he decided to go into law enforcement, so enlisted in the Marines. He was stationed in Okinawa during the Vietnam War and received a service medal without ever steeping foot in Vietnam. “It was fun. Where I was, nobody got hurt.” Back home he failed the back exam for the LAPD so worked as a community college police officer and bought a house on the GI Bill. Michael exposed a local employee engaged in fraud, which led him to become an expert in employee theft. As Treasurer of Colton, Michael fired a guy who later turned out to be a financial manipulator. He became a local fiscal hero and was reelected treasurer until he decided to hang up his hat. Michael’s never been unemployed. Now, on the cusp of retirement, he’s a partner in a small consulting firm that manages issuing municipal bonds. “I can work anywhere with an Internet connection.”

imgresFour years ago, Michael and his wife bought a townhouse in Carlsbad, a city with well paved streets, long library hours and a balanced spreadsheet. Their transition to full retirement is gradual – Michael still enjoys his work, and his wife spends most weeks tending her 96-year-old mother near Colton – but well planned. “I’ve led a charmed life. My children will not have such good things.”

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_5129“I have some plans for after I quit working. I’m seeing a lot of problems with younger men. I’m hearing a common theme that many boys don’t have a father in their home. I would like to do mentoring of some sort. I am sure all men want to work and contribute to society. But there are so many men who have no support. Society says we have to be tough and self-reliant. Without a college degree, there aren’t good jobs, not like how it was when I got out of high school. Women seem to be doing better than guys these days; it’s tough on guys.”

 

 

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Trip Log – Day 204 – Benson, AZ to Bisbee, AZ

Benson to BisbeeJanuary 18, 2016 – Cloudy, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 51

Miles to Date: 10,475

States to Date: 26

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I woke to frost after ten hours of solid sleep, climbed out of my cozy motorhome and witnessed a glorious dawn. After a delicious breakfast with my hosts, I hit the road under full sun and a rising thermometer.

images-2Fifteen summers ago I traveled Arizona Route 80 in a motor home with my two grammar school age children and their cousin. We watched the staged gunfights in Tombstone’s OK Corral and toured Bisbee’s Copper Mine. Memories of that trip line my passage now. Tombstone without a ten-year-old boy seems more gimmicky than I recalled. But the landscape, at my much slower speed, seems more majestic.

By noon, the sun gave over to clouds. Beyond Tombstone, the broad plains with distant mountains begin to close in. The road undulates through hills and valleys, and up a gorgeous canyon. The north side of the canyon, which faces south, is red, rocky desert. The south side, in constant shade, is littered with deep green pines and an underlay of snow. At the road’s crest, near 6,000 feet, the road shifts to the shady side, Instantly, I was cold.

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IMG_5482Most people would say I’m frugal. Some might use less accommodating adjectives to describe my relationship to money. I like to think I’m judicious but know when to splurge on something truly dazzling. One glance at Bisbee’s mountainside Historic District convinced me it was worth staying at the Copper Queen Hotel, a nineteenth century eclectic Spanish painted lady where, at one time, true painted ladies plied their trade. The receptionist’s upturned curls and flower in one ear was the perfect period touch: classy, not touristy. The saloon, velvet sofas, pin-stripe wallpaper and creaky floors felt authentic. Apparently three ghosts inhabit the place. I think they have good taste.

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Profile Response: Kevin Lee, Fullerton, CA

HWWLT Logo on yellow“The mind is like a knife. I can kill with it or butter bread with it. It’s not the knife’s fault what I do with it.”

Kevin was raised in a Baptist family. Two weeks after high school graduation, his sweetheart was killed in an automobile accident. As a young man he realized that religion offered emotional satisfaction but didn’t answer the basic questions: who are we? Where are we going? Why are we here? In his 30’s, Kevin spent three years circling the globe. He met Mother Teresa, spent three weeks with the Dali Lama, talked with scientists, physicists, and yard workers, and performed the 10-day Vippassana Mediation three times. “I’ve been questing ever since.”

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Kevin’s 56 now, a single man and partner in a food consulting firm that guides Korean companies to create industrialized food products. “One of our clients wanted to make an Oreo-type cookie. We couldn’t reproduce Oreo’s; that would be illegal. We found two of the original Oreo inventors, brought them to Korea and within three weeks created a commercial quality cookie.”

images-5Evers since his three-year trek, Kevin’s continued to explore. He scuba-dived all seven continents and took up underwater photography. “Photography was my means of sharing scuba diving and the underwater world with my family and friends.” He began to photograph Opisthobranches, tiny marine gastropods barely visible to the naked eye. “I focus on anatomical accuracy. I can spend thirty minutes on a subject, to get a particular view.” Kevin is now the world’s leading photographer of these mollusks. “Not a month goes by that a scientist doesn’t use one of my images in a publication.” In 2013, the Adventure Club of Los Angeles named Kevin ‘Adventurer of the Year’.

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Kevin’s fascination with a creature so small and difficult to observe is all part of his search for greater meaning. “The ability to think is the human’s sole advantage over other animals.” There’s a reverie, a perspective that comes while seeking and documenting this tiny animal deep in the sea. “America is a huge country, but it’s full of insular people. There’s more to life than comfort and security. Scuba diving in Antarctica was very difficult, but the experience outweighs the inconvenience. The happiest folks I’ve even seen are barefoot peasants in Nepal. I guess it all comes down to values.”

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How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_5088“It’s hard to answer the question without a timeframe. In two to three billion years the sun will flash into a super nova and cook the earth. The question is, will we as a species survive until than?

“When the religious blinders came off I jumped head first into philosophy. That took me into a three-year journey of backpacking to explore what do people want in life? We have universal core traits. We all want the same thing; security, creative outlets, connections to family.

“The mind is our differentiating tool and also our biggest downfall.

“I am a hopeful agnostic. If we kick the bucket and there’s nothing, that would be okay. But it would be nice if there was something more. I have a bookshelf on philosophy and another on physics. I bridge that divide. It’s actually not a divide. Everything comes from stardust.

“It all goes back fourteen billion years to the Big Bang. What happened before that? Scientists tell us that the universe is expanding and will expand forever, but what comes after that?

“For a long time I wanted to be a minister, but ultimately I couldn’t rationalize the disconnect with science. Transubstantiation? That makes spiritual sense but no physical sense. Christians need to be ‘children of Christ’, blind believers. Religion offers us a lot: socialization, comfort, economic strength; it moderates negative behavior. There are positive functions to religion. But it does not correlate with reality. I am looking for the comfort that my mind can rationalize.”

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Trip Log – Day 203 – Tucson, AZ to Benson, AZ

Tucson to BensonJanuary 17, 2016 – Sunny, 65 degrees

Miles Today: 50

Miles to Date: 10,424

States to Date: 26

In keeping with Tucson’s sociability, my hosts Claire and Bob rode me out of town along The Loop, the city’s elaborate system of cycle paths. Beyond Tucson and Vail, Marsh Station Road proved to be one of the most striking stretches of desert terrain on my journey.

IMG_5461The mountains around Phoenix and Tucson are very different from what I am used to in the East or the Rockies. They pop out of the Sonoran Desert without any directional orientation. Bob explained the area is called ‘Sky Islands’ because each mountain cluster has a discrete ecology and microclimates vary as elevations rise. Certain plant and animal species are unique to one grouping because the plains between are too wide for species to mingle.

IMG_5463When Marsh Station Road joined I-10 for the ten-mile stint into Benson my practice of checking on anyone stopped by the side of the road proved beneficial. I passed an aging pick-up stranded on the shoulder. “Everything good, here/” The woman of the couple explained the truck overheated. “Do you have any water?” Turns out I did, and gave it to them. Nice to know a cyclist can help a motorist in distress.

 

I got to Benson in time for a few writing hours in the local McDonald’s, which proved to be a friendly place. I chatted with well-tanned winter visitors, an elderly woman helping her much older father sip his fountain drink, and a grandmother struggling between an infant in a high chair and a toddler insistent on sitting at a high-top. A guy with longish hair and maybe threIMG_5462e teeth told me that the local St. Vincent de Paul’s Society put up folks who are stranded. I thought about the couple in the pick-up, but then realized he was referring to me. Less than a week back on the road, and I must already be looking scruffy.

I stayed with a quiet man who lives on a spread outside of town and offers his motor home to touring cyclists. The night sky over the San Pedro River was rich in stars.

 

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Profile Response: Lee Peterson, Port of Long Beach, Long Beach, CA

HWWLT Logo on yellowEveryday, everyday objects travel halfway around our world. Dental floss, ballpoint pens, yo-yo’s are made in Asia and shipped here. Sometimes items crisscross multiple times. Wood pulp is shipped to Japan, turned into paper and shipped back here. Silicon Valley computer chips are shipped to China, assembled into computers, and shipped back to Silicon Valley. All of this movement is predicated on the same two things that drive every business: money and time. As long as Asia’s labor + shipping costs remain lower than ours, manufacturing and assembly will utilize long distance transport. And today, as in millennia past, shipping is the cheapest way to transport a lot of stuff.

imgres-4Everything about the Port of Long Beach is gigantic. Over 3,000 acres of piers jut into the Pacific Ocean at the end of the Los Angeles River; 31 miles of engineered coastline. Two thousand vessels dock annually at 62 berths scattered among 24 terminals. More than 68 gantry cranes unload goods. Pier T, the busiest crude oil terminal in California, empties tankers into pipelines direct to a half dozen SoCal refineries.

Close to a million containers are unloaded and loaded at the Port of Long Beach every year. The six container terminals handle 70% of the port’s cargo. It takes five to six days to unload a 14,000 container ship, the largest on the sea today. Every container has an RFID code that describes where it’s been, where it’s going, and what’s inside. Data that customs officials and transit companies need to know. Almost a third of those containers go directly from ship to railcar. Even more are loaded directly on to trucks. Very few containers ever touch the ground. Container ships only get bigger. Next year, the first 18,000 unit ships will arrive. More than four football fields long. Fifty times longer than Long Beach’s pride, the Queen Mary, container ships are the largest man-made objects on earth.

imgres-2The Port of Long Beach is the second largest port in the United States. The only thing bigger is the Port of Los Angeles, right next door. The contiguous pair dwarfs any port on either coast. At 76 feet of water depth, LA/LB are the deepest US ports; they came to dominate the market in the 1970’s when they embraced container shipping.

imgres-1Lee Peterson, Communications Director, toured me through the port. At first, he focused on the bicycle projects – an expanded bike lane to link cyclists to a community fishing pier and dedicated bike lanes on a new bridge. I was glad the port cared about making this industrial area bike friendly, but more amazed by the numbers – again gigantic – that Lee quoted. The replacement bridge over the back channel: $1.5 billion. The upcharge for bike lanes: $50 million.

Although I’m on a bike, I was more interested in port’s core mission: moving stuff. It’s all goes back to money and time. It takes a freighter ten to fourteen days along the northern route to get from China to Long Beach. Along the way, it passes ports in Canada and Oakland. But total time to market is shorter from LA/LB because the ground interface is better: trains depart from this port every day to every corner of our country. Goods shipped to Long Beach and railroaded to the East Coat arrive more than a week faster than goods shipped to an East Coast port. Vendors shave off days from manufacturing to market. “Everything is perishable. Fashion is perishable now.”

imagesThere are, of course faster ways to get things from China to the US, but air cargo is much, much more expensive. “Airfreight is only 3% of the market.” It costs $1200 to $1600 to ship a standard container, 8’-0” wide x 8’-6” high x 40’ long, across the Pacific; and less than half that to ship the container back. “We have to send all the containers back, but on the return trip, only about half of them are full.”

Screen Shot 2015-12-25 at 5.16.12 PMContainer shipping tripled through the 1990’s, and port volume peaked in 2007. “The recession made us reassess our projections.” Shipping has steadily increased; 2015 volume will approach 2007 levels. However, the port has no expansion plans. Instead, it will upgrade to accommodate larger ships, incorporate more efficient loading systems, and introduce energy reductions. “By 2030 we’ll handle twice the volume we do today using less energy.”

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_5081“Our idea of the port of the future is to get to zero emissions – be total electric. Rail can be electrified, trucks can be electrified; our newest terminals will be all electric. Then we want to create electricity. We are studying how to generate power on site. The Middle Harbor Rejuvenation project, $1.3 billion, is a ten-year project that will increase capacity and reduce energy.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 202 – Tucson, AZ

Screen Shot 2016-01-14 at 8.56.09 PMJanuary 16, 2016 – Sunny, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 23

Miles to Date: 10,374

States to Date: 26

IMG_5426 Tucson is a very social place; at least for this itinerant cyclist. My wonderful host Lucia took me on a sunrise hike up Tumamoc Hill where we took in the desert and worked up an appetite for breakfast burritos with her childhood friend Zaida.

 

 

IMG_5441After a cycling tour through downtown, The Presdio, the funky Fourth Street District (where Surly discovered her own bar) and the University of Arizona, I made my way to the Northeast part of town for lunch with Carol and Eulee, two friends of my Boston friend Perry whom I can now count as friends of my own.

 

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In late afternoon I pedaled to Far Horizons where I stayed with Claire and Bob Rogers, a pair of intrepid cyclists who have logged over 40,000 all around the world, including cycling the Himalayas! Between trips, they home base at this 55+ RV Park. Fortunately, it was Saturday dance night. Over a hundred seniors gathered in the club house for line dances, swing, tango, waltzes and even a couple of polkas. Given the ratio of widows to single men, I had a pretty full dance card all night.

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Profile Response: Bill Bruns, Long Beach, CA

HWWLT Logo on yellowThe broad outline of Bill Bruns’ life doesn’t describe a radical adventurer. Bill worked as a postal carrier and invested his supplemental income in rental properties until he became retirement eligible. lives in a tidy one-bedroom condominium overlooking a golf course in Long Beach. Bill’s had two long-term boyfriends, but mostly he’s been single. A few times a year Bill vacation trades his desirable condo with someone from another exotic locale. That’s how he’s stayed all over Europe and Asia for free. Bill began playing tennis in high school and at age 58, he still plays every day. Tennis and travel describe his life.

There are two hiccups to this prudent tale. First: how we met. Bill contacted me online several years ago and proved interesting enough to maintain a long distance cyber relationship. He has other virtual friends who, like me, turned into real friends when the opportunity to meet in person arrived.

imagesSecond, Bill changed his tennis game. This may not seem major to the rest of us, but for a man to change his playing style after over forty years is radical. At 55, Bill took a lesson from tennis pro Kirk Wilson. “This guy explained how to place a post and exactly how to raise an elbow like I’d never heard before.” Bill decided to abandon everything he knew and study under Kirk, a process that involved physics and psychology. “When you play a match, everything you need to know is on the other side of the net.”

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For a year or more, Bill’s game slipped. “My friends all thought I was crazy to change my game at my age.” But Bill’s changes have made real improvements. “I used to beat one of my regular partners 6-4. Now I beat him 6-0. I know my game is even going to get better.”

I am a lousy tennis player. But I am big fan of people who are never to old to reach out and meet new people, and take the risk to change their game.

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_5071“I have bits and pieces of things.

“It worries me that we have become so germ conscious. Our ancestors developed immunity because they could stand up to things. Now we have a generation who sanitizes its hands. I worry we are growing weaker when for years we had been growing stronger.

“I worry about exercise. Are we going to become blobs? Will we not need our bodies anymore?

“I worry about the earth. We are putting stuff in it that’s not natural: nuclear waste, carcinogens.

“Corporations are becoming the bane of society. They are creating a really bad world.

“I am happy that almost all people are good. In my travels I meet all kinds of people, and they are all good. The hope lies there.”

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