Trip Log – Day 180 – Los Angeles, CA

Screen Shot 2015-10-28 at 11.23.31 PMNovember 1, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 25

Miles to Date: 9,313

States to Date: 25

The Getty Center is the Shangri-La of high culture, an Italian hill town of inviting walks and amazing views sliced into precise 5’-0” squares. It’s so thoughtfully conceived you’re never lost, but never dominated by any form or space either. Yes, there are organizing axes and a central atrium. But unless the tour guides point them out, they are references you feel rather than dictums you obey. I spent all day there, took a few tours, wandered aimlessly, and met my niece and her beau there. The beautiful museum objects are well displayed, but it’s the architecture that creates lingering memory. On a warm Sunday afternoon with a light breeze, The Getty Center is perhaps the most prefect place on earth.

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Trip Log – Day 179 – Culver City, CA to Los Angeles, CA

Screen Shot 2015-10-28 at 11.23.31 PMOctober 31, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 22

Miles to Date: 9,288

States to Date: 25

It’s been thirty-five years since I’ve been in LA, so today I caught up with the city’s recent architecture. Downtown is beginning to feel like a real, dense place, although still small considering it’s the center for ten million people. Apartment towers are adding some after-hours life to the streets. The new Ritz-Carlton is the best addition to the skyline. Thomas Moyne’s CalTrans Headquarters is pretty cool, but ultimately just an office block with a very grey exterior. I don’t think it’s so unique as to deserve all the hype it’s received within the architectural community.

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The most notable new buildings reflect LA’s cultural ascendency beyond TV and movies. The LA Museum of Contemporary Art looks as ill-scaled and dated as any 80’s building. Across Grand Avenue the new Broad Museum is better; its simple form and deep skin are a good complement to its more famous neighbor: Frank Gehry’s Disney Concert Hall.

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Disney Hall is a very good, very expensive building. The sweeping forms are less arbitrary than in some Gehry buildings. The interior is full of drama, yet the building’s organization is simple and clear. The overlapping lobbies and stairs must be spectacular when filled with stars on an opening night. The structure required to support these sails in earthquake prone California is incredible, all the better that it’s exposed in many places from the inside. There are many excesses – a small concert space open to the lobbies is rarely used, as is the concrete amphitheater that cuts up the already difficult to access third floor ‘public’ park. We could not visit the concert hall as the LA Philharmonic was practicing, but the tour’s video simulation is very informative. The hall is universally praised as an acoustical and aesthetic success. Like much contemporary architecture, the Disney Hall is full of arbitrary stunts; angles, curves and flashy materials that mean little beyond technical whizz-bang. The forms are dazzling, but lack the shared meaning that prosaic features like portico, gallery, and piano nobile have connoted for centuries. I had to ask someone where to find the entrance. What I suppose ultimately makes the Disney Hall such great architecture is that it’s a perfect reflection of our times; technologically superb yet full of extraneous noise; stimulating and exiting, but exhausting as well.

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IMG_5019The new cathedral, which is cold and hard inside and out, is less successful in every respect. If there is one building form that’s seeped in meaning, it’s the cathedral. But LA tossed aside millennium of church architecture tradition. People enter the building on the sides and filter into an asymmetrical auditorium. Everything is raw concrete and monochromatic light. The most interesting elements are the fabric panels of saints and believers that address the altar. How much more compelling they would have been if, as in cathedrals before, they were made of glass and glowed from within to bridge the spiritual and temporal worlds.

IMG_5015After so much contemporary complexity, I spent a lovely afternoon in the LA Central Public Library, a well proportioned Deco delight.

Two events bookended my downtown LA experience. In the morning I stopped at Pico-Union, a hard-surfaced space where young street artists develop their talent without running afoul of the law. In the late afternoon I cycled through the Hancock Park neighborhood where young trick-or-treaters went door to door. Since it was Saturday in this heavily Jewish neighborhood, there were also dozens of men in black suits with flat brimmed hats walking to synagogue. And I was riding along in garish yellow. I marveled at the cacophony of our costumes: the four-year-old spider man, the bearded gentleman, and the spandex cyclist.

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Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

How will we live tomorrow?

“If we help heal the minds today, we can have a bright tomorrow.”

Wesley Roby, Founder of Bully Prevention, Los Angeles, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“America’s best days are yet to come. Our proudest moments are yet to be. Our most glorious achievements are just ahead.”

Ronald Reagan, President of the United States 1981-1989, Simi Valley, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“When I was a kid I mowed lawns, now adults do that. Then I delivered newspapers. Now adults do that and they can barely make a living at it. I worked in a restaurant and then a liquor store. Now adults do all of that. How are kids going to learn about work? What’s going to happen when we have even more people and fewer jobs?”

Bill Korn, father of three children in their 20’s, Santa Maria, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Not very well if we don’t change our ways today.”

Linda Lang, Docent, Old Mission Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I am in the world to change the world.”

Quote by Kathe Kollwitz, on a T-shirt at Getty Villa, Santa Monica, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“As life long learners. I’m trying to learn French and Italian online now.”

Angelika Christensen, mother, Thousand Oaks, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I am an optimist. I believe we will live better. The world will come together. Technology will improve our lives.”

Linda Bentson, Docent, Old Mission Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Prosperous.”

Steve Gallandti, Traveling Businessman, Santa Barbara, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Live life to the fullest and don’t let the bad stuff get you down.”

Shirlee, cashier at Staff of Life, Santa Cruz, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I want to live in a an Eichler house, but I won’t be able to afford it. I will downsize to a trailer or a bus.”

Liz, Eichler homeowner, Thousand Oaks, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I would like people to be more connected to their environment. Especially if you move. You have to take cues from where you are. I grew up on a New England farm and spent time in England. I like the sense of place there. I’ve been her thirty-five years. You don’t get that here.”

Dexter, Emmy-winning animator, Thousand Oaks, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I have a lifetime of summers ahead of me. There’s not a place I don’t want to see.”

Amy, schoolteacher who travels every summer, Sacramento, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“Simply. We have so much that makes life easy. We communicate easier. We will travel easier.”

Beverly Chrisman, Docent at Ronald Reagan Presidential Library, Simi Valley, CA

How will we live tomorrow?

“In harmony. There is not enough harmony and we need more.”

Wim, Volunteer at Getty Villa, Santa Monica, CA

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Trip Log – Day 178 – Studio City, CA to Culver City, CA

Screen Shot 2015-10-28 at 11.23.31 PMOctober 30, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 51

Miles to Date: 9,226

States to Date: 25

Hard to imagine a better start to a day than waking with the California sun streaming through the window of a hillside home with a great view. I said goodbye to my excellent hosts Diane and Alan and headed over a short pass to Hollywood. The Hollywood Bowl, Sidewalk of Stars, Graumen’s Chinese Theater. It’s so easy to see sites on a bike, especially before most people in LA are even up for the day.

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IMG_4991I wove through west LA to Venice Boulevard; six lanes (plus a bike path!) straight to the beach, then wound along the famous beach path through Santa Monica to the Getty Villa. Riding my bicycle dampens my interest in opulence, but the Getty Villa is pretty fabulous. The recreated Roman villa is stunning. Boston-based architect Machado and Silvetti’s extensive ancillary structures are also very good. The architectural tour guide made illustrative connections between opulent, status-conscience first century Rome and opulent, status-conscience twenty-first century California. I am not a connoisseur of early art, so didn’t spend too much time amidst the marbles, bronzes, and ceramics. But, the vistas are breathtaking, the proportions satisfying, and the terrazzo and tile floors are the most spectacular I’ve ever seen.

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IMG_4994It took awhile to get out of there. (The Getty shuttle system is a mess. Why don’t they put in a sidewalk and let people who walk, ride bike sand come by bus walk the sort distance up the hill? LA car snobbery at its peak.) I had a 3 p.m. interview on Wilshire, so couldn’t loiter on the beach. The ride back into town was worth it because Lisa Arungua of the LA Public Health Department was one of the most interesting people I’ve talked with to date. We could have talked for hours, but I had to bow out at 5 p.m. because I needed to get to Culver City before dark. As serendipity would have it, I passed one of Lisa’s public service billboards on my way.

IMG_5005I try not to ride at night, but in LA I need to be doubly careful. LA’s reputation as a bad cycling town is fully deserved. Within my first 24 hours here no fewer than six cars pulled U-turns and come close to me at the curb. They look for other cars, but not for bicycles.

Then there are the parked cars. Most streets allow parallel parking. What’s unusual in LA is how many people park and then remain in the driver’s seat. Don’t ask me what they’re doing there. Maybe they live in them. As a cyclist I have to monitor moving cars on my left and potential doors opening on my right. When fully one-third of the parked cars have people in them, doors open into the bike lane all the time.

Finally, there are very few bike lanes compared to other cities. Cars – fancy ones with loud engines and expensive finishes – have no time for the likes of me. As I result, I was pretty happy that I had to traverse Venice Blvd three times today. It has by far the best bike lane I’ve seen in this city.

 

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Trip Log – Day 177 – Thousand Oaks, CA to Studio City, CA

Screen Shot 2015-10-28 at 11.23.31 PMOctober 29, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 46

Miles to Date: 9,175

States to Date: 25

The Ronald Reagan Library is the first Presidential Library I have visited on my trip, and it’s inspired me to pedal to more. So-called Presidential Libraries are a modern invention. Part library, mostly museum, and total spin, every president of my lifetime is enshrined in a monument of his greatness. The Ronald Reagan Library conformed to my expectations in many respects. It’s a reproduction California Mission structure on a gorgeous site. The docents I met were all middle-aged, tan, well coiffed Californians; Reagan’s most popular demographic. But I was surprised at the size and diversity of the visitors. The place was packed on an October Thursday morning with a broader array of diversity than I expected. In the 35 years since he was elected our country’s politics have shifted so far right, that Reagan is now a centrist, and sometimes even a liberal hero.

imgresHis actions are presented in sync with current tastes. Displays about how he stood down free speech advocates during campus unrest while governor of California also stress how much he increased funding for education. Descriptions of his environmental achievements fail to mention how James Watt, his Secretary of Interior, dismantled the environmental movement. But more important than how the curators tweak the message to popular taste, the Ronald Reagan Library illustrates how events, often beyond the control of the President, shape his legacy. Reagan got a huge boost when the Iran hostages were freed on Inauguration Day. Then, 71 days later, he was shot and survived, and the United States had our first bionic president. The guy was sharp and he was a great communicator, but he was lucky how events conformed to his message. Under Reagan, Americans could really believe we are a special people.

imgres-1The building is well organized and sited, but the museum itself is terrible: cramped, cluttered and chaotic. I came to dead ends several times. The Air Force One Pavilion, however, is terrific. It’s great fun to stroll through the plane that served eleven Presidents. The control panel where the nuclear codes and black box were kept was eerily like the ones I witnessed in North Dakota’s Missile Alert Facility.

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Simi Valley is not all that close to LA. I cycled many miles up and over Santa Susana Pass, against Santa Ana headwinds, before I landed in the San Fernando Valley. Fortunately, I had a nice bike path along the dedicated Orange Way bus line for over ten miles. However, the last five miles, along Ventura Boulevard at rush hour, were dicey. I have never seen so many stores that cater to the beautiful body. Want a gym? Massage? Cosmetics? Mud bath? Pilates? Tummy tuck? Laser hair removal? Fat freeze? Aroma therapy? Yoga? Herbal elixir? It’s all on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City, TV Capital of America.

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Trip Log – Day 176 – Santa Barbara, CA to Thousand Oaks, CA

Screen Shot 2015-10-28 at 11.23.10 PMOctober 28, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 70

Miles to Date: 9,129

States to Date: 25

IMG_4962The bike path south along the Pacific Coast Highway is well marked and worth hopping back and forth across US 101 in order to enjoy the times the path hugs the ocean. Along one four-mile stretch the route stretches along a seawall where wave overspray refreshes riders. In another section I rode tight to RV’s set up along the shore. I felt like a voyeur checking out the middle-aged people lounging on their chairs, smoking and staring out to sea. Seemed boring to me, but relaxing is not my forte.

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imagesThe path dissipates in Ventura, so I traveled though the center of this pop legend town. It’s got a good vibe, but more second hand shops per strip of storefront than any town in America. All signs of bike path disappeared east of town. It took some time to find my way to Oxnard, but once I did, I sailed east past the flat farmland with a strong tailwind. Going eighteen miles an hour without having to pedal is like being on an amusement ride!

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All good things must pass, and eventually I had to climb Potrero Road, a few miles of very steep grade that bought me to Thousand Oaks, an affluent bedroom city.

Serendipity took me past a development of Eichler houses, one of the few developers that built Modernist residences. I met several people in the well-preserved development, each of whom loved their iconic home. Note how the mailbox matches the front door. Modernists are cool control freaks.

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Profile Response: Sean Andreas, The Circus Project, Portland, OR

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowHomeless people are, by definition, unhinged from their roots. They drift in seemingly random ways, but come together in places that accommodate them with benign weather, supportive services, or community acceptance. Portland, Oregon, a place where those three attributes come together, is a haven for homeless people. Every person I talked with in that city, regardless of economic or social standing, felt a responsibility toward street people and supported services to help them move to more stable conditions. Thousands of homeless people sleep on Portland streets every night; hundreds of them are youth.

Obviously, what these youth need is circus.

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That may be a cheeky statement, but in fact, circus performing has been the path out of homeless for many Portland youth thanks to The Circus Project, a non-profit group founded by Jenn Cohen to train youth, in particular homeless youth, in the circus arts. Seeing Steve Oplin’s film about this unusual organization prompted me to visit The Circus Project in their warehouse facility on the edge of downtown Portland.

IMG_3885Sean Andreas, who started volunteering at The Circus Project three years ago and became Program Director last year, toured me through the high, open space the company moved into in April. Several young women swayed on ropes and rings on a weekday afternoon. Since moving into its own space, the Circus Project offers more classes and programs. The balance of fee paying and scholarship students keeps the organization viable. Beyond specific classes, The Circus Project has drop-in hours that are particularly useful to homeless youth. “Portland has a romanticism among the homeless. We have a tight core, good public transportation, and Portlanders are kind.”

imagesThe Circus Project performs four major shows a year at the Alberta Rose and Echo Theaters in Portland – two of the larger performing arts venues in the city. “Circus studios have been thriving in Canada and Europe for years. Now they are beginning to open in the United States.” The Circus Project offers opportunities for people of means to learn circus arts. But it also offers homeless youth an opportunity to get off the streets and onto the stage.

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_3878“Fitter. I would hope one of the goals of The Circus Project is to eliminate the barrier between those so have and those who don’t. Performing arts are a way for the homeless to have a voice.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 175 – Santa Barbara, CA

Lompoc to Santa BarbaraOctober 27, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 20

Miles to Date: 9,059

States to Date: 25

Santa Barbara is paradise. The weather is perfect, the architecture stunning, the people thin and rich. That is, once you overlook the street people who have commandeered the best spots on the beach and all the parks. Even they seem pretty content to lounge in the lovely sea breeze.

imgresI had an early morning interview with the city engineer responsible for overseeing the newly refurbished desalinization plant. Santa Barbara’s water woes are serious. Despite impressive conservation, they are siphoning the dregs out of their reservoirs. But, because this plant will come online and supply about 70% of Santa Barbara’s water needs, with the potential of meeting 100% of current demand, there’s a sense that the water issue is manageable, as long as you’re copasetic with processing sea water.

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I spent the rest of the day playing tourist: the waterfront, the Mission, the beautiful shopping arcades, the elegant library. In late afternoon I visited the farmer’s market.

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I’d spent a week trying to connect with my brother-in-law Matt, a long-time Santa Barbarian and neat guy, but plans never gelled. So, I found myself in paradise without a place to lay my head for the night. I could, of course, join the many other middle-aged homeless guys with bikes along the beach. But fate has been more generous to me than to them, so I figured I could cough up the cost of a motel.

images-1In the meantime a local cyclist invited me for a beer at Figueroa Mountain Brewery in the funk district. I arrived early, snagged a spot at a community table, and before long was chatting with a personable IT wannabe explorer and a trio of Bakersfield guys on a business trip to the coast. When the men with expense accounts heard my story they insisted on buying me beer and dinner, Eventually, I met the cyclist, and her friends, as well as folks at other tables. When time came to disband Kerry, the IT guy, offered me the floor of his apartment three blocks away. Way more fun than a motel.

 

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Profile Response: Tyler Termeer, Executive Director Cascade Aids Project, Portland, OR

HWWLT Logo on yellowA positive HIV test changes a person’s life. Too often for the worse. But sometimes it’s a wake-up call to action that has tremendous positive effect. Tyler Termeer was a college junior studying stagecraft when his HIV diagnosis compelled him to move into non-profit work. He has been an advocate of HIV awareness and services as well as a representative for living well with HIV for over a decade. A year ago he moved to Portland with his partner and their two children to become Executive Director of the Cascade AIDS Project (CAP). “This is a transformative time in HIV work. People with access to care and support live longer. I feel great and have been fortunate to work for amazing organizations.”

imagesCAP is one of the oldest HIV organizations in the country; thirty years old this year. It began with a group of men and women sitting around a living room trying to figure out how to advocate for their friends who were dying. “Now, it’s grown up. We’ve gone from a staff of two to a six million dollar organization with a staff of 55. But the backbone of our organization is still our 600 volunteers.” CAP has evolved as people with HIV live longer. Beyond medical treatment, people need housing assistance, employment, and educational services. CAP augments its direct services by networking with other community organizations on behalf of people with HIV. “We don’t own or operate housing. We err on the side of what we know. We work with developers and advocate for affordable housing.”

CAP operated with interim directors for three years until Tyler took the reigns, pivotal years in HIV care due to the Affordable Care Act. One of Tymer’s first initiatives was to develop a five point strategic plan.

images“How do we diversify our income stream from a 70/30-government/donor split? Our biggest traditional fundraiser, the AIDS Walk, has been supplanted by the largest art auction in the Northwest. We are also evaluating the vale of charging for some of our services.

“We want to strengthen organizational partnerships within the community.

“We must address health equity in the community. Access to care is much lower for economically disadvantaged, people of color, youth, and homeless people.

“We want to elevate CAPS leadership capabilities.

images-1“Finally, we have to remain relevant as a traditional AIDS organization. Is the term AIDS limiting in this period of integrated services? Does it inhibit our ability to work with women, youth and people of color? Has the group grown too large to be considered a project? Should CAP open a federally designated health center? How can it serve Portland’s growing homeless youth, when it currently only offers services to people over eighteen? The demographic of the visible LGBTQ community in Portland is still mostly white men, but there are all these other people with HIV.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“It’s an interesting question for any AIDS service organization right now. We are living in an era where we have learned so much about the epidemic that people are living long and managed lives. People who have access and use medication are 96% less likely to transmit. People who are virally suppressed are less likely to transmit. Our challenge is to create an environment where people will stay on track with their care.

imgres“The challenge is thinking about how far we have come and take a moment of pause to stop and think about what do we do, how well are we doing it, and have we really completed our mission?

“CAP is a medium to large organization; we do not think we should ‘go’ yet. We need to grow and change, but that growth has to have integrity with our original mission. We want to be here thirty years from now. We are purchasing a building; we are looking at an increased scope of services. We want to expand what we offer our existing population.

“I hope if we find a cure or a vaccine, we will still be living as an organization that makes sure people have access to vaccines or cures and that we exist as a historical organization that tells the story of the HIV epidemic.

“How do we get to the point when HIV segregation isn’t necessary? We should be there now. We have so many people whose cohort of conditions is more complicated than HIV. But there is still a stigma with HIV that doesn’t exist with other chronic diseases. Until that changes, we will need specialized services.

Nationally we have about 40,000 new infections per year. That remains stable. But the cascade of care is troubling. 25% of people are unaware of their status. Of the remaining 75%, not all are in care. Fewer follow all of their care procedures. Only 25% of people living with HIV have a suppressed virus. We have to do better than that.”

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Trip Log – Day 174 –Santa Maria, CA to Santa Barbara, CA

Lompoc to Santa BarbaraOctober 26, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 67

Miles to Date: 9,039

States to Date: 25

Rule number one of bicycle touring: always listen to knowledgeable locals. My host last night, Bill Korn, gave me detailed directions on back roads from Santa Maria to Santa Barbara that proved to be challenging, beautiful, and worth following.

IMG_4931Faxon Canyon Road follows a valley rather than a traditional canyon. The valley floor has all sorts of agriculture, with sculptural hills rising on either side. I was intrigued by yet another method of efficient harvesting; a twin tractor setup that that included picking and packing in one movable process. I could not figure out what the laborers were harvesting – maybe broccoli?

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IMG_4939As I climbed higher the fields gave over to vineyards. I had been warmed that Los Olivos, midway along my route, was a tony wine tasting town, but I wasn’t prepared for the disdain every set of eyes shot my way. The chicken panini at Corner House Coffee House was the most expensive and worst sandwich of my trip, served with a side of attitude. The Internet didn’t work (what coffee house doesn’t have superb Internet?) but the leggy staff couldn’t care less when I mentioned it. I longed for a tacqueria. Mexicanos in hairnets standing behind a steam table are so much nicer than gorgeous California girls who don’t give the time of day to a grey haired guy in a garish cycling shirt.

IMG_4936I was happy to shake the dust of Los Olivos from my feet, even if it meant cycling through the hottest part of a very hot, cloudless day. The grass along the road is beyond brown. It’s translucent stubble waiting to spark.

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IMG_4944There’s a pittance of water in Lake Cachuma. The surface of the reservoir is well below the lowest discharge gate. A big green hose siphons water through the dam, an inelegant solution to a problem the dam designers never considered.

 

 

IMG_4945Before the big climb over San Marcos Pass, I ducked onto Stagecoach Road, a wonderful meandering path up and up and up. I passed under the giant bridge of Route 154, and eventually wound up higher. My legs were plenty tired when I finally reached the big descent into idyllic Santa Barbara.

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