Trip Log – Day 101 – Missoula, MT to Plains, MT

Missoula to PlainsAugust 13, 2015 – Haze 100 degrees

Miles Today: 73

Miles to Date: 5,610

States to Date: 21


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Fire Danger: Extreme! I had heard there is often August snow in the mountainous Montana, so I wasn’t expecting the hottest day of my trip here. Then again, ‘unseasonal’ is the only consistent adjective we can apply to weather anywhere these days. Yesterday’s heat hung over early morning, the mercury was already passed 90 when I stopped for a break at 10:30, and the air was brittle and dry all afternoon.

Surly didn’t like the day very much either. First I had a blowout on the decline into Arlee which proved challenging to fix. The air was so hot I never got the tire pressure right, both bike and rider were lethargic. Then I got a wire caught in the same tire. Thankfully, I disengaged it before a second flat.

FullSizeRender-2I have been thinking about the John Steinbeck line that people here love to quote: “I’m in love with Montana. For other states I have admiration, respect, recognition, even some affection. But with Montana it is love. And it’s difficult to analyze love when you’re in it.” I am not in love with Montana, but I am confounded by it. The four cities I’ve visited have each been more interesting and vibrant than I expected. The landscape is breathtaking. But beyond the cities, I have met too many jaundiced people.

Today I got a toxic diatribe about our President in response to my question, from an ice cream vendor no less. As I pedaled away, unsatisfied by a stingy scoop of huckleberry, I realized that nature’s majesty could not counteract the meanness of that man. Why, I wondered, does such an expansive place create such narrow people? The kind of question worth spinnFullSizeRender-1ing for a good twenty miles. Perhaps narrow people seek out the place? Ultimately I realized that Montana is expansive, but it’s not generous. Life is difficult here, for animals and for people. Resources are scattered far and so populations are spread thin. It is a large pie, but not an expanding one, and not a very nourishing one. People truly believe that they must protect what they have – water, land, livestock – by themselves and with extreme measures if necessary. I can appreciate Montana’s beauty, but I just can’t love a place with so many guns and so little goodwill.

FullSizeRenderMy downcast perspective lingered through the long hot afternoon. Five miles from Plains my warmshowers hosts pulled up in their truck. They’d been in Missoula for the day, were looking for me, and insisted on sagging me to their house. The sky was mixed with scattered thunderstorms and fire smoke. They’d already picked up Peter, another cyclist I met during the day. They thought he was me, and invited him for the night. So we were four for a tasty dinner that lifted my spirits but sparked my fatigue. I was in bed before nine, before dark.

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Profile Response: Vicky Mortenson, La Porte, CO

HWWLT Logo on yellowI met Vicky when she called “Hey’ at me from her horse on the side of a steep hill covered with her goats. I had just turned off US 287 onto Owl Canyon Road, a gravel shortcut to a farm north of Fort Collins. “I have the easiest job in the world.” She described how little effort it takes to guide a small herd of goats around their land for about five hours each day. “Only on nice days. They won’t go out in the rain. Then, I feed them hay.”

Vicky and her husband have lived in this area since the 1970’s. She told me where to find the ruts of stagecoaches from the Overland Trail and where Butch Cassidy used to hide his horses. Every few moments a car rumbled along the dusty road and we remained quiet until the sound abated. “They’ll pave this within a year, I bet. There are more and more people here now.”

IMG_2829We commiserated on the joys of aging. “I love being old. I wear whatever I want. I celebrated my 66th birthday last year camping at 12,000 feet. I don’t understand the people in Wal-Mart riding around on scooters. You’ve got to stay active.”

While we chatted all the goats shimmied over the hill. But before Vicky trotted off and I pedaled on she offered perhaps the most honest assessment of how we will live tomorrow I have heard.

How will we live tomorrow?

“That is a good question. I’m a liberal from Roxford, ID – my husband and I do not fit in this landscape. I wish there was a way to get to less fossil fuel and use more wind. But I like my air conditioning. I’ve lived the old way, but I don’t want to go back to that.”

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Trip Log – Day 100 – Missoula, MT

Ovando to MissoulaAugust 13, 2015 – Sun 90 degrees

Miles Today: 12

Miles to Date: 5,546

States to Date: 21

 FullSizeRender-1Day 100 of my adventure – in the Bicycle Mecca of America! Every touring cyclists knows about Missoula – headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association, freecycles bicycle cooperative and a small city’s worth of bike-centric people, traffic-calming paths, and two-wheeled activities. Surly and I spent the day tootling around and talking to a bunch of people doing great stuff in every quadrant of the social-economic and political scale.

FullSizeRender-4First stop: PEAS Farm, a ten acre vegetable farm, one of 21 local food production efforts run by Garden City Harvest. PEAS combines a unique mix of paid staff, college interns and at-risk high school students to provide fresh food produce to CSA subscribers and for low-income mobile markets. They invited me to join them for a delicious lunch.

IMG_3485Next up: Freescycles community cycle shop. Bob Giordino showed me around their repair area, and ‘parts department’. I used the stop to do a quick once over on Surly, who is in great shape.

FullSizeRender-3Afternoon ice cream break; Adventure Cycle Association, where I ran into other cyclists I have met along the road. I also had meetings with their membership director, one of the founders, and the current CEO to talk about tomorrow.

 

 

FullSizeRenderLast stop: Dress for Success Missoula. One chapter in an international organization that assists women in transition to prepare for job interviews by teaching job getting and interview skills as well as giving them appropriate outfits for interviews and the workplace. Terri Griffith and her staff, all of who are volunteers or in work reentry programs, represent the contributions that women emerging from abuse or prison have to offer.

I rode over to my warmshowers host for the night. Bruce Anderson is perhaps the most prolific warmshowers host in the world; several hundred cyclists a year. His sunroom and living room are giant crash pads and he has an introductory binder to describe protocol. Small crowd tonight – just two of us. Every warmshowers experience is different.

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Profile Response: Haydn Christenson, Fort Collins, CO

HWWLT Logo on yellowWhen Nate Storey of Bright Agrotech suggested I visit Haydn Christenson in Fort Collins, a farmer who uses Zipgrow Towers commercially, I envisioned a hefty guy in his late fifties or sixties in a flannel shirt riding his tractor across his wide spread. Such is our stereotype of a farmer. In reality, Haydn is a young man, a recent Agronomy graduate from Colorado State University, who utilizes four variations of intensive farming to turn ten acres into a viable commercial operation.

IMG_2836Haydn and his fiancé, Lindsey, purchased the ten-acre plat three years ago. They live in the house already on the property, and have added a greenhouse and an opaque grow room, as well as a vegetable garden, production garden and chicken pen. Haydn says, “It was the perfect property: good sun exposure, sloped to the south with a full tree barrier on the north.”

Haydn grew up on a large farm east of this area, commodity crops like wheat and hay. But intensive farming is a different proposition: high profit / high margin products for direct consumption like herbs and tomatoes that Haydn sells direct to local restaurants and Whole Foods. In addition to growing the food, Haydn handles weekly deliveries and marketing. “Last month I talked to fifty restaurants about adding my products, and got one new customer. But I am in line to add two more Whole Foods.” Haydn lost money his first two years in business, is on track to break even this year and hopes to clear a profit next. “In the meantime we have housemates and rent some of our pasture.”

Haydn’s operation can be broken down into four types of farming: irrigated outdoor plants, horizontal greenhouse plants, vertical greenhouse plants, and total environment control, IMG_2840grow room, plants. Each type takes successively more energy to operate, and produces correspondingly more yield. The key is to find the optimal energy/output for each plant he grows.

Haydn grows greens like kale and chard outdoors. They can thrive with the least amount of energy input and require a lot of space.

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The greenhouse is an irrigated, mechanically ventilated space. Half of Haydn’s greenhouse is devoted to flats of lettuce. Lettuce grown horizontally makes large, firm heads ready to harvest on a three-week cycle that continues most of the year. He also has tomatoes and cucumbers in hydroponic pots. His Zipgrow Towers are for herbs, especially basil, and strawberries, which grow very well vertically.

IMG_2842Last year Haydn lost 75% of his basil crop when a pest swept through his greenhouse. He created a second herb area, a grow room, an opaque metal building where he controls light, temperature and water. The results are impressive – much higher yields than the greenhouse. Haydn operates the grow room opposite the solar cycle; running lights all night and keeping it dark all day. But his energy costs are still higher than the greenhouse.

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I asked Haydn how he managed to keep his customers in produce when he was hit by a crop loss. “I am not Whole Foods’ only supplier, or even their main supplier. They are happy to get whatever I can produce, and advertise their local connection. But they have large-scale suppliers from California to make sure they never run out of basil.”

Haydn will continue to refine what he grows where. Over time, he plans to take over the pasture he rents out and use his full ten acres for intensive farming. “A 6,000 square foot greenhouse is the minimum a farmer needs to make a living. I would like to have a separate one just for tomatoes. I need to clear $120,000 per acre per year to make this operation profitable.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“Our food supply is getting more local all the time. We have a long way to go, but we’ve come far. Whole Foods has changed the entire supermarket business. Go into a King’s Sooper today. It looks a lot like a Whole Foods, it has organic produce and local produce. Ten years ago, there was none of that.”

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Trip Log – Day 99 –Ovanda MT to Missoula, MT

Ovando to MissoulaAugust 12, 2015 – Sun 90 degrees

Miles Today: 57

Miles to Date: 5,534

States to Date: 21

Any day that starts in Ovanda is a good day. I woke in my shepherd’s wagon with more energy than it takes to keep a few sheep in line, ate a stupendous breakfast at The Stray Bullet, downed two cups of their savory coffee, had an introductory lesson into fly fishing as a metaphor for life, and was still on the road before nine. True, I was headed into a storm but that hardly seemed to matter.

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The storm proved short lived, the sun came out, and the ride into Missoula through the Blackfoot Valley was just one gentle downslope after another. The lumber mill town of Bonner had delightful rows of worker’s cottages all painted with matching trim with a row of street trees. So simple and elegant – why has contemporary architecture forgotten the power of repetitive pattern in its quest to make every building distinctive?

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I got flummoxed when I had to ride along I-90 for the last five miles. Yikes – no shoulders at the bridges. I still managed to find Missoula’s famous deli, Worden’s, in time for a late lunch. I spent the afteimagesrnoon in my fourth cool, trendy, Montana city, arranged interviews about tomorrow for tomorrow, and pedaled to my warmshowers host for summer veggie lasagna, local beer, and banana bread so full of chocolate chips it should have been called a brownie.

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Profile Response: Nate Storey, Bright Agrotech, Laramie, WY

HWWLT Logo on yellowNate Storey is growing food in recycled plastic in midair. He developed the idea as a Phd. agronomist at University of Wyoming and has grown the concept into a sixteen-person firm. Bright Agrotech manufactures Zipgrow Towers, a system that enables food production virtually anywhere and offers unlimited landscape possibilities.

 

Here’s how Zipgrow Towers work. Take a 4” PVC tube, four feet long, with a half-inch slot removed from the middle of one face. Fill the void with a loose arrangement of filaments (think Brillo pad mesh of recycled plastic). Set the tube, alongside others, in a horizontal top and bottom track. Run a drip hose along the top track, drizzle water down the tube to the bottom track, collect it and pump it back up in a continuous cycle. Insert the roots of seedlings into the filament with the leaves hanging beyond the slot in the tube. Let the sun shine, the water trickle down, and the plants grow.

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There are a few fine points, like adding nutrients to the water cycle, but the basic system is so simple only a savvy PhD. could conceive it.

IMG_2803Nate and I met, and were Youtubed, outside the Altitude Chophouse, a restaurant in downtown Laramie whose south facing brick wall has been turned into a garden for basil and other greens; food so local it’s literally grown a few feet from where its consumed. The thermal mass of the brick wall and sidewalk actually expand the growing season in chilly Laramie.

The Altitude wall is a positive display of Zipgrow’s potential, but Nate envisions many other, and larger, applications. “Wheat is not economical, but herbs and greens thrive.” Zipgrow is also finding interesting niches in landscape design. The largest application to date, the feature wall of the US Pavilion at the Milan Expo 2105, integrates both applications by growing food arranged to create patterns of color and texture.

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How will we live tomorrow?

“We started this business because we believe in better ways to do food production. I see people connected to their food, for consumers to make more of their own food.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 98 – Helena MT to Ovanda MT

Helena to OvandoAugust 11, 2015 – Sun 90 degrees

Miles Today: 78

Miles to Date: 5,577

States to Date: 21

I rolled out of Helena by 8:30 a.m. for my climb over the Continental Divide – for my fifth time! Riding conditions were excellent, so MacDonald Pass, at 6200 feet, was not nearly so difficult as other assaults across the Divide. Still, the 3,000 feet rise over 16 miles was a good workout.

FullSizeRender-2On the downside I stopped for two guys hunched over the open hood of their semi. They were Beevis and Butthead characters with goofy grins, one was tall and skinny, the other squat and fat. The short guy stood with a blown hose in his hands apparently baffled at what to do. I offered a bicycle tube to squeeze over the hole, but he declined. Further on, while on a cold drink break, they eased their massive truck into the station and filled the radiator with gallons of water. I headed north on Montana 141 so never saw them again, but I imagine they didn’t get as far as I did.

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Highway 141 is a gorgeous road through a huge valley. Parts are lush with farms, other sections dramatically barren. At 52 miles I found a rare patch of shade along an unnamed reservoir and took a writing break. An empty pickup tied to a boat stood in the pull-off. As I was getting ready to leave, another pickup pulled in. Turns out a couple just starting their vacation broke down, returned to Helena, and borrowed another pickup. They transferred all their stuff, including the boat, to their new ride while waiting for the tow truck from Helena to retrieve the broken vehicle. They were remarkably cheerful given their difficult start. Ten miles later, they gave me a happy honk, beginning their vacation in a borrowed pickup. I was reminded how easy it is for me if Surly needs attention. She fits easy into any Samaritan’s vehicle.

The remainder of the ride was pleasant, though the scent of dead skunk and charred timber polluted the fresh mountain air. Smoke from active fires rose in the distance.

FullSizeRender-4Ovando is the most unique town I’ve stayed in during my journey: population 75; one roadside restaurant; and a collection of eclectic shops at an irregular square that used to be the center of town. An enterprising woman has converted a sheep wagon, a tipi and the old jail into cyclist sleeping digs for $5 per night. I decided to enjoy a full dinner before turning into a nomad shepherd.

imagesTrixi’s is a long, narrow building whose fake wood paneled walls are covered with real elk and moose heads. There are ten seats at the bar, eight slot machines, six tables, three video arcade games, a foosball table and one pool table. The waitress, Ovando born and bred, chatted me up as she shuffled three tables together. This region suffered a dry winter and spring, so the summer fires are severe. An extended family was evacuated from the blaze I saw, and was coming in for dinner. Turned out to be the woman who arranged my lodging; we met like old acquaintances. She and her family were in party spirits; confident the fire wasn’t a serious danger.

The world is immense, full of glories and dangers. Our machines fail us, our climate turns forests to tinder, but each mishap creates opportunities to meet interesting people.

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Profile Response: Crossfit 7220 Laramie WY

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowWhat’s a guy to do who’s taking a rest day from cycling? Crossfit!

I contacted Mike Dorssom, Owner of Crossfit 7220, to find out more about the Crossfit phenomenon and how it will get us in shape for tomorrow. He invited me to meet three of his trainers: Nicole, Gretchen and Lindsey, who explained the unique characteristics of Crossfit training and challenged me to attend a workout. I couldn’t refuse the opportunity to knock myself out at 7,220 feet above sea level.

IMG_2807Crossfit 7220 is a big, open space with apparatus around the edges. Along the east wall is a set of steel frames, on the opposite side a grid of steel columns and rings is like a giant jungle gym. Hand weights, medicine balls, rowing machines, and other contraptions are stacked in corners. It reminded me of a circus tent. When I arrived, a solo man was performing a series of exercises with various contraptions. Some were traditional stretches and weight work, others I did not recognize.

Crossfit is both highly structured and completely individualized. Every day a unique workout is posted on the whiteboard. Classes are scheduled throughout the day. People of all ages and fitness levels follow the same workout, modified to their level. Alternatively, members can came anytime and do the workout alone. Each day’s workout focuses on a few muscles groups. Over the course of a week or so, every body part gets taxed and strengthened.

Every Crossfit workout stresses three characteristics: constant variation; functional movement; and high intensity. Each 50-minute class follows a pattern. Start with a warm up focused on mobility. Add dynamic activities that mirror movements we use in daily life. Build up to the workout of the day. Go all out for an eighteen-minute sequence of exercises performing AMRAP – as many reps as possible. Close out the session with a cool down.

IMG_2805Crossfit, which was developed in the early 2000’s, has a boot camp energy and enthusiasm. There are hundreds of workout sequences; the most popular ones are named for fallen veterans. Although each Crossfit gym is individually owned, on certain days of the year all Crossfit gyms do the same sequence in honor of revered veterans. The Murphy Workout is a favorite among all three trainers.

There is also a focus on nutrition. Food is fuel, eat enough of the right stuff and your fitness, your strength, your endurance will improve. Crossfit 7720 has presentations for members about optimal eating and challenges that tie performance objectives to nutritional improvements.

IMG_2808I returned later that afternoon for a workout, the gym truly was a circus. About eighteen of us stood in a large circle: men and women, young and old, fit and less so. Our leader led us through stretches, easy at first, but they grew challenging fast. When he had us walk across the gym in deep lunges, both forward and backward, I fell behind everyone else. No one minded, the rest of the group cheered the newbie on. I was felt good, though winded, when we began the eighteen-minute workout: 22 snap presses (squat down and pick up a dumbbell from the floor, rise up and snatch it overhead, eleven times with each arm) followed by 11 push-ups (which you can do on the floor, with your feet raised for more challenge, or your arms raised for less) followed by 22 Russian twists (lay on the floor, lift your torso and your legs, shift a medicine ball from your left side to your right). The instructor used a 35-pound weight for his snatches. I looked at the size of his biceps and selected a 15-pound dumbbell for myself, a 12-pound medicine ball for my twists.

Ready, set go. They pumped up the music, set the scoreboard-size time clock to count down from 18, and everyone went wild. So did I, at least at first. Set number one, all good. Second set, my push-ups started to sag. Third set, I retreated to the cross bar near the wall to make my pushups easier. Fourth set, my sides burned in my Russian twists. Fifth set…whoa, was I going slow. Finally, I finished my sixth set, the buzzer rang and cool down began.

IMG_2806I never get sore from cycling anymore, even when I do centuries. The muscles I need for pedaling are conditioned, and the rest of me, well, not so much. My abdominals, my shoulders, my triceps, were sore for days after my sojourn into Crossfit. I’m in pretty good shape, but Crossfit is a whole other level.

 

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_2809“Healthier, more thriving. What I do in the gym makes me better for any change in my life.” – Gretchen

“Everyone has their own lens of competition. Crossfit brings out the best aspects of ourselves.” – Lindsey

“We are ready for anything because we are training every aspect of our physical condition. We are better equipped for physical and mental challenges.” – Nicole

 

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Trip Log – Day 97 – Helena MT

Bozeman to HelenaAugust 10, 2015 – Sun 90 degrees

Miles Today: 15

Miles to Date: 5,499

States to Date: 21

Helena is a delightful town; I had a perfect rest day here. I started with an early morning spin through town – checked out Last Chance Gulch, downtown and the capital. I was fascinated by how the Helena’s founding purpose – gold discovered in Last Chance Gulch, shaped the capital into an unusual urban form. Unlike agricultural communities, which dwell in valleys, or railroad towns, which are linear, everything in Helena presses up against the north face of Mount Helena. The ‘center’ or town isn’t in the center at all; it is at the far south end of a community that continues o to grow north. The original, irregular, grid, which represents development from 1864 until after World War II is full of interesting architecture, significant Victorian mansions, lovely bungalows, and lots of shade trees. The sprawl is limited to the north and east, which makes it less dominating.

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After a filling lunch of pizza buffet, I met with Krys Holmes, Executive Director of the Myrna Loy Center. She connected me with Edwin Bender of followthemoney.org and Tim Holmes, a renowned artist who’s embarked on a project of giving his drawings away to random strangers as a means to spur connection.

FullSizeRender-1It was after six by the time I pedaled out to my warmshowers host. Dawn Bridges is a phenomenal host. She and her husband Scott gave me a room with a view of the western valley, a private bath with a view of Helena climbing the hill, laundry, a great meal that included fresh garden vegetables, and terrific conversation. We didn’t rise from the table until after eleven.

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Profile Response: Matthew Shepard, Laramie, WY

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowThe principal reason I came to Laramie, and stayed two days, was a young man I never met, a man of slight stature, born prematurely and died prematurely. Matthew Shepard would be 38 years old now. He could marry the person of his choice, even in Wyoming. But he never got that chance.

 

When Aaron McKinney and Russell Henderson murdered Matthew Shepard in 1998, I’d been out as a gay man for five years. Yet I was no more comfortable in my skin since that realization shattered the world I’d contrived. On the surface, my coming out was easy. No prejudice at work or my children’s school, certainly no personal violence. Still, after an initial burst of gayphoria, being gay was discomforting as being straight. Instead of pretending my sexuality away, I tossed it an ambiguous shrug. Even today, I don’t consider gay a defining characteristic. I’m a father, an architect, a writer, a cyclist, a yogi, and a curious wanderer who happens to be gay. Yet every key juncture of my personal life: my childhood isolation, who I married, why I had children, how my marriage dissolved, and why I’ve never attempted another relationship; are intrinsic to the fact that I’m gay and my inability to embrace that identity.

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As a result, my gayness manifests in tangential ways. One of the first pushpins I stuck in the map of this trip was Laramie. I wanted to see where Matthew Shepard lived and where he died. I wanted to see the Fireside Lounge where he met his murderers. I wanted to see the fence that Aaron McKinney and Russell Henderson tied him to and left him to bleed. It was important to me to seek out the spirit whose identify is forever bound to this gruesome act against gay men.

Laramie barely acknowledges the most famous event in its history, although the town is the central figure of The Laramie Project, the most frequently produced play in the world, and a widely distributed film. Laramie’s only official marker is a bench outside the Arts and Sciences Building on the University of Wyoming main quad. It faces a building entrance that reads: Prepare for Complete Living. The Fireside Lounge has had a face lift and several name changes. The street names leading to the beating site have been changed. ‘Private Property’ signs warn seekers away from the actual spot. Still, I made my way as far as legally allowed during the sunny interlude of a stormy afternoon. I had pedaled far with the certainty that Matthew Shepard had something to tell me.

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The most disquieting aspect of where Matthew Shepard was beaten and left is how public it is: within a collection of houses on five-acre lots, some built before 1998. People lived within earshot of what happened. Did no one hear? Eighteen hours passed before Matthew was found, a full turn of daylight. Did no one see?

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It is not a comfortable place: scrawny plants; gravel; a few utility stumps. Nothing invites a person to contemplate the underbelly of human behavior that raged here. I stood for some time trying to conjure meaning. Which meant, of course, that no meaning came. In time, a deer walked over the rise between two houses, crossed the road and stopped to graze. A second one joined her. Less than a hundred feet separated us. At one point the second deer picked up her head and looked right at me. I wanted her to communicate meaning, but the only truth she relayed is that these deer are very accustomed to people.

IMG_2819Eventually, both deer left, and so did I. A quarter mile down the gravel road to town a Leonard Cohen song sprung into my head, a song I’ve known for years. Yet in that moment it acquired completely new meaning. I’ve always identified with the man, the beggar leaning on his crutch. Wanting little, he could never be hurt or disappointed. Now I realized we are supposed to identify with the woman in the door. We have to go out and demand what we want. We may not get it, we may be disappointed, but we have to try.

We’ll never know what Matthew asked for the night he died. I believe he asked for more than was customarily gotten in his place and time. Asking for more got him killed. Yet, the savagery of Matthew’s death woke us all. Tragedies force us to question what is right from what is wrong. Matthew Shepard’s brutal death made it forever wrong to beat up on faggots.

Since Matthew Shepard died, the rest of us have received more. Not more than we deserve, just more than we had. In 1998 no one could predict how fully gay people live in 2015. Matthew’s death is an unquantifiable but significant factor in the world turning to our favor. I can integrate being gay into my life, or not, however I choose. Thanks to Matthew Shepard, and so many other martyrs and activists, I am free to ask for whatever I want.

How will we live tomorrow?

Bird on a Wire

 

 

 

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