Trip Log – Day 106 –Spokane, WA to Wilbur, WA

Spokane to WilburAugust 19, 2015 – Hazy, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 66

Miles to Date: 5,900

States to Date: 22

 IMG_3589Every few weeks I forget the rule than fifty miles before noon is easier than thirty miles after noon, and have to learn that lesson all over again. It was hard to leave Ryan and Sabina and their other warmshowers guest Al. We had a great breakfast conversation and it was pushing nine by the time I left. How hard could 66 miles be?

 

 IMG_3595The first ones were easy, across the Spokane River and rising up along the Centennial Trail. Cool shady mornings even make climbing pleasurable.

By the time I reached the plateau, about ten miles along US 2, the sun was high, the fire smoke made a brown band in the sky and I knew it would be hot. But the road surface was good. Beyond Quest Casino and Wal-Mart, Fairchild Air Force Base and McDonald’s, the land became an immense, undulating blanket of tawny wheat; as if the past six weeks of mountains disappeared and I was back in the Dakota’s. I spun fast, in keeping with the gigantic scale, until the wind imitated the Dakota’s as well, bearing straight at me with no relent.

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I was famished by lunch, and disappointed when Davenport’s Safeway was the dinkiest possible store: no prepared foods or place to sit down. Still, I can always put together a good lunch in a grocery store. A dozen tired guys in white pick-ups with flames on their T-shirts came in as well: fire crews on break.

Beyond Davenport the road was recently paved with rough aggregate safety engineers must love for the friction, and cyclists abhor for the same reason. I jostled on an oily goo of tiny pebbles for twenty miles. Everything vibrated, my bike, my hands, my head. It was an interminable MRI test. No matter how much I savored the scenery, which had turned to sagebrush, or was thankful for no of rain, or no fire, I could not forget the bumpy shoulder. Finally, I came to Cresston, where I promised myself a break. But Cresston’s a shell town; nothing left. Until I passed a roadside chapel that was open and cool and let my jangled nerves approach equilibrium.

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The road wasn’t all that much better for the last ten miles, but my spirits were. I found the energy to pump hard up the hills, and brace Surly against the cross winds. Every flag stood straight out from its pole. The Willows Motel in Wilbur is much nicer than I would expect from such a sleepy place. I found adequate eats at their local grocery and was simply happy not to be vibrating anymore.

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Profile Response: Alana Wilson, Boulder, CO

HWWLT Logo on yellowAlana Wilson is a member of the Chrysalis, coop, a sixteen member cooperative living group in downtown Boulder. Except not right now. This summer, Chrysalis is sharing a fraternity house with their sister coop, Masala, while both of their houses are being renovated. Alana is a PhD student in Hydrology with a special focus on frozen water environments (studying the variation of snow melt vs. glacier melt in High Asia). Unlike many graduate students, Alana is deeply involved in her local community, both Chrysalis and Boulder. She is informed and active in local issues, particularly when it comes to housing, which is a complex, lightning rod issue in Boulder.

Boulder, home of University of Colorado main campus, has a reputation as an uber progressive community, yet not all progressive experiments yield the desired results. Boulder has a strict ‘no growth’ ring around its core in order to curb sprawl. This is desirable, in theory, yet results in inflated real estate prices of existing homes and triggers up to 60,000 people each day commuting by car to Boulder because housing near jobs is both expensive and rare. The environmental benefits of the ‘no growth’ ring are more than offset by the fossil fuels required to enable all that commuting.

IMG_2881Boulder also has strict limitations on household size, a feature common in college towns; no more than four unrelated adults in the downtown core, three in the rest of the city. This inhibits shared living situations, which offer high density, more economical, and more sustainable living. Boulder has three city-sanctioned cooperatives (Chrysalis and Masala are two). A recent proposal to allow legal cooperatives for older people seeking to live in community could not even get to a City Council vote. The interests of private homeowners here, like everywhere else in the U.S., are strong.

Yet there are curious ways in ways in which Boulder supports its coops. They are considered affordable housing, and as such, qualify for certain advantages. The Chrysalis renovations are being funded through the city from a fund supported by developer contributions in lieu of providing a minimum 20% affordable component in new developments. As low income housing, the coops also receive food from Boulder Food Rescue, an innovative program that collects viable, though unsellable, food from local markets and distributes it to the community. I arrived just after the Saturday shipment from Whole Foods arrived. The kitchen overflowed with out-of-date pastries, slightly blemished fruit, and more fired chicken than this mostly-vegetarian group would ever eat. Coop members sorted through the goodies, and then gave much of them away to other neighbors.

IMG_2877Which leads to the fact that Alana and other Coop members don’t live as they do just to prickle the city. They want to live in community. Coop members devote time to cook and clean, but also to meet regularly, to take workshops in communication and conflict resolution. Living in a community is their choice, and they invest time and energy to make their groups vital.

Alana has lived at Chrysalis for three years. With a turnover rate close to 30% a year, she is a senior member. The mix is pretty even men and women, and the group’s first mom with two children is moving in this fall. When an opening occurs, there are typically twenty applicants who want the spot. The demand for cooperative living in Boulder far exceeds supply.

IMG_2879Alana thrives on living in community, but sees limitations due to legal restrictions that promote nuclear family housing over other models. As coop members age they want an ownership share in real estate, but group home ownership of more than three people is not allowed in Boulder.

How will we live tomorrow?

“We need more options for how people live. Living in community is more sustainable by any measure, and for many, is a preferred way to life.”

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Trip Log – Day 105– Coeur d’Alene, ID to Spokane, WA

Couer d'Alene to SpokaneAugust 18, 2015 – Hazy, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 52

Miles to Date: 5,834

States to Date: 22

 IMG_3555My nephew Joey has an early job, so I was on the road shortly after six, revisited Coeur d’Alene’s lakefront in the early morning light, and was on the Centennial Bike Trail before the morning commute. Centennial is one of the best trails I’ve been on: great pavement, generous width, and terrific views along the Spokane River. The river’s water level changed dramatically along the route. A series of markers explained how the Prairie Aquifer feeds the river and vice versa, as the relative height of the aquifer and the river change along the route.

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IMG_3570By eight the sky turned hazy and smoke from the region’s fires masked the sun. By the time I arrived in Spokane, this railroad hub was shrouded in pollution. I meandered through Spokane’s industrial east side to visit Self Storage of Spokane. I’ve seen so many storage facilities across the country I wanted to investigate how they figure into tomorrow. The manager gave me a terrific interview and different perspectives on who rents storage facilities and why.

East Spokane includes miles of pawnshops and used car lots on streets not well suited to bicycles. Eventually I made my way to the University district (Gonzaga, the perennial NCAA basketball contender is in Spokane) and landed downtown, where I found a cool Mexican restaurant for a satisfying lunch.

IMG_3586Downtown Spokane is all about fun – it’s easy to see why the city hosted a World Expo back in 1974. There’s a carousel along the rive, an amusement park on the island that held the Expo, and cable cars that traverse across the spectacular Spokane Falls and under the impressive Monroe Street bridge.

 

IMG_3579 IMG_3580I took a writing break at the Spokane Library, where I had a study carrel with a view o the falls as well as the not-too-distant fires. I am so impressed by the libraries in this country. Cites have invested so much in them over the past twenty years and in town after town I enjoy seeing how well used.

My warmshowers hosts, Ryan and Sabine, live a few miles out of downtown in a quaint 1920’s bungalow. They set a high standard for friendliness and amenities, including fresh garden salad with our al fresca pasta dinner. Such thoughtful people make me feel good about tomorrow.

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Profile Response: Phil Bratty of Simply Bulk, Longmont, CO

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowLongmont, Colorado’s shady main street prompted me to dawdle on a hot summer Saturday afternoon. As I glimpsed the passing storefronts, Simply Bulk caught my eye. I stopped to check out this simple yet elegant store that sells a wide range of food and health products in bulk.

According to the USDA, 8.5% of the money we spend on food is for packaging. Add the recycling or waste disposal costs on top of that, and our penchant to put things in ever more custom containers has both an economic and environmental cost.

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Phil Bratty opened Simply Bulk 5-½ years ago, after working in the natural foods business with Wild Oats. The idea is simple, but the ramifications for how we live, and how we waste, are great.

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How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_2867“From my perspective, we are what we eat. When it comes to health and wellness that is where we start. Modern medicine treats symptoms rather than starting with the fundamental person.”

 

 

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Trip Log – Day 104 – Sandpoint, ID to Coeur d’Alene, ID

Sandpoint to Coeur d'AleneAugust 17, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 55

Miles to Date: 5,782

States to Date: 21

I meandered through Sandpoint on my way out of town, and visited the beach I missed yesterday. The distant mountains were silhouetted in the morning light.

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The first ten miles toward Coeur ‘d’Alene is a good ride along a bike path along the lake. The next thirty miles were less fun. US 95 turns away from the water, has a variable shoulder, and heavy traffic. Ten miles outside of Coeur d’Alene I was able to shift to a local road, and resume a pleasant ride.

IMG_3548I did pass an awesome logging facility with this huge overhead crane that loaded logs onto rail cars. Giant sprinklers spewed water fifty feet high to keep the logs moist in this area rampant with fires.

I arrived at Coeur d’Alene just after noon. After last Friday’s blowout, I had called ahead and made an appointment at a local bike shop to have my ride overhauled. I settled into a corner of the shop while the mechanic performed magic on my trusty steed. Every bike shop amazes me in how they respond to long distance cyclists. I was happy to be on the road within two hours. They were happy to have a customer so easy to upsell. I replaced my punctured tire, rear bearings, front derailleur, chain, and brake pads. I can’t skimp on Surly.

 imgresI spent the rest of the afternoon cruising beautiful Coeur d’Alene and writing in their gorgeous library at a table overlooking the lake. Then I pedaled up French Gulch to visit my nephew Joey, whom I had not seen in ten years, and his wife Amanda, whom I’d never met. We had a great evening catching up in their cool and remote-feeling cabin only three miles from downtown.

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Profile Response: Brian Janonis, Fort Collins, CO

HWWLT Logo on yellowBrian Janonis is the not the kind of guy who sits around and chats. When I asked if I could talk with him about tomorrow he said, “Sure. The City Planning Department is having a citizen walk through the proposed development district north of downtown. Let’s do that.” So, after riding 70 miles I walked three more with Brian and fifteen other keen citizens of Fort Collins on a sweltering afternoon through streets that required a long view of tomorrow to envision as vibrant urban spaces. But Brian and our companions did not consider reimagining their city a matter of ‘if’, simply a question of ‘when’.

imagesBrian is a native of New York who moved to Colorado and never looked back. He’s an engineer who worked for the City of Fort Collins, eventually becoming Director of Utilities. He loves technology, the west, and Fort Collins. He retired a few years ago, but is so involved with various civic projects he scoffed at the idea that he would relocate, or even travel at length beyond Fort Collins.

images-1Brian is justifiably proud of Fort Collins’ many initiatives to become a more sustainable place. The city has its own utility company, and started a decentralized generation program that allows individuals to feed their unused solar power back into the grid, a common sticking point in making domestic solar feasible. The city also buys up property in the ever-expanding flood plain to create green/recreational areas; Fort Collins did not require federal assistance after last year’s devastating floods. The city has invested in alternative fuel vehicles, and is building a refueling station. This afternoon, we walked an underutilized industrial area north of downtown that borders the flood plain. The city envisions this as the logical extension of Fort Collins’ vital commercial core.

IMG_2848Brian attributes Fort Collins’ success in creating innovative programs to transparency. “Fort Collins has just as many ‘small government’ proponents as any Western town. But when you show people what we want to do, and why, and then do it well, they support improvements. The citizens trust us and pass our bond issues.” Today’s walk is one example of that transparency. Another is City Works 101, a six-week program that explains different aspects of city government to individuals who participate. “There’s a reason why Fort Collins is on the Smithsonian’s List of Innovative Cities.”

How will we live tomorrow?

imgres“On another planet. We’ve got a long way to go before we can live in a sustainable way. We’re not going to last forever on this earth. Our goal has to be to prolong life on this planet as long as we can.”

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Trip Log – Day 103 – Noxon, MT to Sandpoint, ID

Noxon to SandpointAugust 16, 2015 – Sun and haze, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 53

Miles to Date: 5,727

States to Date: 21 

I was happy to discover a coffee spot a few miles beyond Noxon this morning. I chucked to myself when a guy half my age with twice my waist told me cycling was unhealthy in this smoky air and that trucks would run me off the road. I checked delivering a reciprocal comment about what his XXL microwaved burger from Quick Stop was doing to his health. My New England penchant to keep unsolicited advice to myself is a good trait in a country where people dole out opinions as fact and expect thanks in return.

IMG_3534For the next fifteen miles smoke laden air infiltrated my lungs, but the hour of exercise it took to get me out of Montana will probably not kill me. Idaho brought brighter skies and cleaner air, though the summer haze lingered.

 

 

 IMG_3540Lake Pend Oreille is a spectacular place; New Hampshire’s Lake Winnipesaukee on a grander scale. It’s the last remnant of the ancient Lake Missoula, part of the Western Interior Sea that included the Bonneville Sea in Utah and the ancient ocean through Eastern Colorado. I pedaled along the eastern shore to arrive at Sandpoint by noon thanks to crossing into Pacific Daylight Time.

I enjoyed the afternoon in Sandpoint and a fun dinner with my warmshowers – a family with four lively children.

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Featured Response: Laura Petrosillo, Expatriate, San Francisco, CA

HWWLT Logo on yellowI met Laura Petrosillo, a French citizen living and working in San Francisco, in the Visitors Center in Yellowstone Park. We were both sitting out an afternoon thunderstorm. Laura and her boyfriend Olivier invited me to dinner that evening. The next day I headed north while these European lovers of all things American headed to Cody, Wyoming, home of Wild Bill Hitchcock.

unnamed-1This week, Laura sent me a response to my question. The first of what may be many to focus on an issue very close to the surface of the West: water.

 

 

 

How will we live tomorrow?

unnamed“One thing I think we we’ll be fighting for in the next couple years is potable water. In appearance, it looks like we will always have access to drinking water but I am worried that one day it will become a luxury and we could end up in a water conflict. In California, with the impressive drought, we are starting to be more conscious about this resource, stickers for saving water started to appear in public restrooms for example. Some people are evolving and changing their habits. Sadly other people just don’t care. Worldwide, we will have to change our habits. Hopefully this evolution will be smooth and governments and organizations will help in good ways.”

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Trip Log – Day 102 – Plains, MT to Noxon, MT

Plains to NoxonAugust 15, 2015 – Cloudy, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 64

Miles to Date: 5,674

States to Date: 21

An uncharacteristic morning for the West; thick clouds spanned the horizon. Hard to tell which were passing moisture and which were entrapped smoke from the fires all around us. The air smelled of cinders and tasted of soot.
FullSizeRender-9Coming off the hillside where my warmshowers hosts live I came upon several signs: I Control My Own. An Internet search didn’t reveal what these signs were protecting, but in Montana, it could be most any form of private property.

 

 

 

FullSizeRender-8In time, streaks of sun began to filter across the mountains. I could only imagine how glorious the Clark Fork Valley would be in full sunlight.

 

 

 

 

FullSizeRender-4I appreciate that Montana was the first state to install historical markers along highways (1938). They are uniformly interesting and informative.

 

 

FullSizeRender-3However, I am less convinced that every little shack with a coffee pot is brewing Espresso.

 

FullSizeRender-2I stopped for lunch at the Trout Creek Huckleberry Festival. I find a festival most every weekend, and they are all pretty much the same: lines of craft booths; an alley of food vendors; kiddie rides and a performance stage. The variation (in this case a plethora of products made from huckleberry and art created by chain saws or made from chain saw parts) is insignificant compared to the similarities. Festivals are no place to talk about tomorrow. They are full of people in groups, enjoying each other and their neighbors. Hardly conducive to the conversations my question triggers. Still, I devoured excellent fajitas and a giant bowl of huckleberry ice cream before moving on.

IMG_3532Just outside of town I met a woman cleaning up from her yard sale and we had a terrific interchange. Nothing restores my spirits more than a positive interaction. Besides, the sun came out and the mountains shimmered all the way to Noxon. The Noxon Motel is as basic as can be, yet perfectly clean and neat. I had several hours of solitude until my recent travel companion, Peter, showed up around nine to crash in my room. He’s a nice young man from New Jersey I met three days ago. We’re on the same route. We don’t cycle together – every cyclist has his own rhythm. Still, we’ve landed in the same place the last two nights. Whether that will continue, only the road can tell.

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Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

How will we live tomorrow?

“We have four children in their 20’s. They help us see another path, one about balancing work with living.”

Julie Robitaille, Middle School Principal, Missoula, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“That’s a deep question, a philosophical question. We can say how we’d like to live tomorrow, but having the motivation and determination to make it happen, that’s another thing.”

Ian, Pizza Professional, Pizza Village Inn, Helena, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“There is shift in the world about who will make money. It’s not about your college training; it’s your creative capacity. In this program, you teach in groups. Parents and method coaches encourage students and counter the long-term challenges to playing. I teach families. They interact and support each other. They build confidence and character. Simply Music has made such an impact on me. It stimulates my mind and keeps my brain active. I want to bring that to others.”

Julie Fallon, Simply Music teacher, Bountiful, UT

How will we live tomorrow?

“The same as today. With an open mind.”

Josh Alberti, Tanzanian cyclist from Fairbanks, AL to Tierra del Fuego

How will we live tomorrow?

“I believe people are hard-wired to want to give back. Veterans are a can-do group. When they come home to ‘can’t-do’ it tears them apart.”

Mark Annis, Social Worker, HUD-VASH Program, Helena, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“We are going to be a dichotic society. If the next generation looses their connectivity they will be screwed. We don’t learn form success. We learn from our failures. We can’t go back 50 years. It is a time we revel in but we can’t go back and we wouldn’t be happy there anymore anyway.”

JP Molloit, Cyclist at the top of MacDonald Pass, Helena, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“I was raised to be an overachiever. I have taken your question – five words – and found five words that fit: Trying; Learning; Sharing; Caring; Living.”

Dawn Bridges, warmshowers host extraordinaire, Helena, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“I choose not to worry about tomorrow. Money goes into retirement and that’s the best you can do. We try to have fun at least once a week. Once a day would be better, but there’s work.”

Charlene Spangler, vacationer broken down along Highway 141, Helmville, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“The same I do today.”

Sherry, waitress at The Stray Bullet, Ovando, MT

“I strayed here from Great Falls and Lincoln and just stayed.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“I think we’re going to hold on to electricity. We’ve only had it for 150 years, but we act like it’s been around forever. Will we sacrifice everything to keep the lights on?.”

Vince Caristo, Transportation Planner, Bloomington, IN

How will we live tomorrow?

“We were not made to sit all day to make money. We were made to move.”

Alyssa Wojciechowski, Stand-up worker, Portland, OR

How will we live tomorrow?

“That’s the war I want to fight. I want to work in small-scale agriculture.”

Peter Haarkleu, cross-country cyclist, Morristown, NJ

How will we live tomorrow?

“If we can survive Obama for the next 13 or 14 months, we’ll be doing pretty good. That (expletive) is the worst thing that ever happened to our country.”

Dave, Owner of The Ice Cream Station, Dixon, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“The same as today.”

Marlene Richardson, yard sale hostess, Noxon, MT

 

 

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