Trip Log – Day 96 – Bozeman MT to Helena MT

Bozeman to HelenaAugust 9, 2015 – Sun 80 degrees

Miles Today: 102

Miles to Date: 5,484

States to Date: 21

If there is such a thing as an easy century, this is it: one hundred miles on a cloudless day with a refreshing breeze. Two long, steady assents between three even longer descents. Along the way I met up with hot air balloons giant American flags, and a Tanzanian cyclist on his way from Fairbanks to Terra del Fuego.

IMG_3397 IMG_3398 IMG_3405

IMG_3400I rode through Manhattan, which actually has a Central Park.

IMG_3411Montana roadsides are littered with white crosses, often more than one per mile, to mark traffic fatalities.  With the speed limit at 70 on even two-lane highways, perhaps the Treasure State should adopt a modified version of New Hampshire’s moniker: Live fast and die.

I cycled past the headwaters of the Missouri and then rode along the majestic river for several hours through the Broadwater Valley. Like my journey, the river is meandering, slow moving, and invites contemplation.

IMG_3409

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Profile Response: Vicky Moore, Kindergarten Teacher, Laramie, WY

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowVicky Moore came west to Laramie 7 years ago and decided to stay. She teaches kindergarten at a local public school, and yoga at a local studio. Vicky’s recently married and decided this summer to take a hiatus from all teaching. “Sometimes you teach from a position of vulnerability, other times within a mask. I was doing the later more. So I decided since I was getting married and going on road trip, I needed to step away from that for now.”

Vicky’s from upstate New York where daily activities included chores like shelling peas. She liked that fundamental connection to the natural world and finds it in Laramie. Although Vicky lives near downtown, she has eight chickens and a garden and appreciates agricultural rhythm in her life. “Chickens are independent but they still need to be fed every day, their coop opened in the morning and closed at night.”

IMG_6842“In college I was 21 going on 35. I started as an education major but hit a plateau when the schooling was boring. I knew teaching would be exciting, but the training was not. My dad, who is a teacher, advised to do something interesting as an undergrad; use the time learning about who you are and people around you in a deliberate way. So I became a Women’s Studies major and waitressed and worked on a farm.” Vicky attended graduate school at Antioch with my cousin Andrew Wood, who teaches sixth grade in Massachusetts.

Vicky loves teaching kindergarten, which is a full day program in Wyoming. The push toward measurable achievement is a challenge, but a number of students attend kindergarten for two years to afford them time developmentally to obtain the skills required. That flexibility allows Vicky to balance the academic pressures. “One of my mother’s said to me, ‘You’re with my children more than I am.’ That is both a privilege and a responsibility.”

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_2796“That’s a big question. The first thing I want to say is ‘with love.’ I was watching my three-year-old last night. He asked, “Do you love anger?” and “What do you fear? “ We exchanged what we are afraid of and came back to ‘What do we love?’ I hope we can live through more understanding, and celebration, of our differences. A healthy habitat is diverse. That applies to humans as well.

“I don’t know if I want to think about the technical aspects of how we will live tomorrow. When I think of the unknown in terms of climate and energy and population I go to a dark place. I don’t know what to do. I compost and raise chickens and do what I can, but I don’t feel like it is enough. I try not to think about the challenges with too much fear because it closes me down. Humans have had challenges before; I have to believe we can get through those challenges. If I close down and get shut off, that won’t help at all.

“My sister is really into technology and talks about the time when cell phones are obsolete and we have small implants in our ears to communicate with one another. My reaction is to push it away, but that is not helpful. Technology, religion they are all blind. I want to deepen our technology but I hope that there is an equal partnership in the earth and the habitats and the eco-systems. How can the progression of technology serve the planet?”

 

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 95 – Livingston, MT to Bozeman, MT

Livingsotn to BozemanAugust 8, 2015 – Rain, 65 degrees

Miles Today: 30

Miles to Date: 5,382

States to Date: 21

Today was short on miles and long on mental conundrums. Yesterday afternoon I was in downtown Livingston on a sunny afternoon enjoying the vibe of skinny young people serving up local food, creating art, and taping Bernie Sanders posters in storefront windows. This morning I pedaled to the truck stop on the outskirts of town for breakfast before climbing Bozeman Pass. I settled into a platter of giant pancakes, crispy bacon and sunny side eggs; a fly on the wall with big ears. All around me heavyset guys in big hats and booming voices complained and slandered with discomforting assurance. “Who elects these fools in Washington?” “Hillary is a crook, she should be in jail, not the White House.” “Obama hates Jews, at least he does one thing right.” “The Japs are about to invade Australia.” “My gun license prohibits buying guns out of state. Why the hell is that?”

Screen Shot 2015-08-08 at 2.24.45 PM

For the first time on my trip, I shied away from joining a conversation and asking my question. The two loudest old men eventually shuffled out to a vintage Lincoln and sped down the highway. I engaged with two women who came in later, personable even as they said Obama is the antichrist and we are entering the end of times. For them, every sign that people of the world are coming together is proof that the end is upon us.

For 23 miles in the rain my legs pumped as my mind wondered how to make sense of my truck stop experience. I want to find reason and value in every person I meet, but I just don’t understand people who thrive in obstinacy and faultfinding.

images-1The rain cleared. Bozeman was celebrating its Sweet Peas Festival. Hundreds of people lined Main Street for the parade and then trekked to the parks to see art, hear music and eat international food. It was exactly as the truck stop patrons predicted: the world coming together. Yet it seemed less like the end of times than very good times. I took a break in Bozeman’s gorgeous new library, a place to come together if ever there was one. The building has large windows that overlooked the park and festival. The world is so much more positive than my breakfast companions allow.

imgres images

I don’t want to dismiss people whose primary occupation is maligning and complaining, but since they never offer solutions, I can’t figure out what they want. I almost hope they find satisfaction naysaying; otherwise they’d be mighty unhappy. Regardless, common ground is difficult to find.

I have been in two Montana cities that strike an interesting mix of tradition and progress. In between I found an isolated truck stop where people cock sure of everything wrong congregate. I like to think they will be welcome back to the center of things if they ever realize that living together in peace is something we should embrace rather than fear.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

How will we live tomorrow?

“How we live tomorrow is anchored in the past. We have to understand the past to make the present and future better. As for the big picture, global warming, I am concerned but don’t have the answers. We have to be aware of our resources and utilize them well. And we have to have compassion. That is the key. To care for each other.”

Mitch Bradley, Owner of Heebs, locally owned market, Bozeman, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“Do what you love and love what you do.”

Joan, retired national park employee, Livingston, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“God’s laws are created to give us order and create family. Our sprits love God’s laws and His plans. But we occupy these carnal bodies. Our bodies want to experience everything. They are free of our spirits. But how will we harness our bodies to support and enhance our spirits?.”

Julie Fallon, Member of LDS Church, Bountiful, UT

How will we live tomorrow?

“I just came back from a nine day retreat. People in other countries are way ahead of us in energy work. Tomorrow will be about working with our own energy, not knives and sticks.”

Sherry Thurston, retired teacher, Rapid City, SD

How will we live tomorrow?

“Gas equals Time.”

Anthony Reisse Jenkins, online follower

How will we live tomorrow?

“Global warming is real. Up in British Columbia, which is rain forest, you can pick up moss and crumble it in your hand. It’s that dry. You used to walk on it and it cushioned your feet. When that happens, there is something wrong.”

Eric Grant, handyman, Livingston, MT

How will we live tomorrow?

“Are we even going to be here tomorrow?”

Brin, retired Special Education Teacher, Phoenix, AZ

How will we live tomorrow?

“We are getting ready for our tribal festival this week.”

Raymond, Sage Hill Travel Stop and Casino, Shoshone Tribe, Blackfoot, ID

How will we live tomorrow?

“I don’t know how we are going to live tomorrow. There are people who simply don’t believe this climate is getting warmer.”

JoAnne, Stop’n’Shop, Firth, ID

How will we live tomorrow?

“It’s hard. I’ve been in exercise physiology. We are getting rid of the programs in the schools, but we need them anyway.”

Brent, Student at BYU-Idaho, Rexford, ID

How will we live tomorrow?

“I moved to Jackson from Mexico City when I was seven. I am 21 now. I love living here, but it has become so expensive. I have lived in Victor for the past eight years, where I get a four-bedroom house for just over $1000 a month. A two-bedroom in Jackson rents for $2000 a month. A local photographer, Anne Muller, has started a group called Awareness to raise consciousness about the problem. When a new hotel opened, a large group of long-term residents was displaced. This is a huge issue in Jackson.”

Montherrat Brinal, Great Harvest Bread Company, Jackson, WY

How will we live tomorrow?

“Someone once told me to remember the past, live for today, and plan for the future. How the future turns out depends on what we do today.”

Willard, Teton County worker, Jackson, WY

Willard was applying pesticide to an invasive weed species in Grand Teton National Park

How will we live tomorrow?

“Technology. That’s what it’s all about.”

Sean, Yellowstone National Park Visitor, Gettysburg, PA

How will we live tomorrow?

“It’s not about money. It’s about the treasure of the experience along the way.”

Tom Wann, cyclist, Cheyenne, WY

How will we live tomorrow?

“I hope we are less destructive.”

Mike Oswald, author of Your Guide to the National Parks, Yellowstone, WY

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully, simpler.”

Lisa, Librarian, Livingston, MT

 

Posted in Responses | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 94 – Gardiner, MT to Livingston, MT

Jackson to YellowstoneAugust 7, 2015 – Sun, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 57

Miles to Date: 5,352

States to Date: 21

IMG_3373Today was a dream cycle touring day. I woke without an alarm, enjoyed eggs and English muffins with my warmshowers host, and stopped by the Gardiner Market for a few supplies. So many of my Boston friends have been commenting on the hot, humid weather back home, I couldn’t help but document the perfect morning temperature here.

Fifty-five miles along the Yellowstone River to Livingston. The first twenty miles on US 89 descended a meandering canyon. I really loved the vertical rock formations on Devil’s Slide. The next thirty miles followed East River Road, a lightly travelled byway through aptly named Paradise Valley. Throughout the valley, the particular yellow that gives the region its name shows through on the bluffs. The two roads joined for the final descent into Livingston.

IMG_3374 IMG_3384 IMG_3377 IMG_3386

IMG_3390After navigating the usual ugliness where US 89 meets I-90, I cycled north to downtown Livingston, a hip little city with lots of galleries, coffee shops and boutiques. I wonder who frequents these places, but they all seem to thrive. I had an exquisite lunch at Chadz, topped off by a cinnamon bun at the Bodega Bakery. Downtown goes on siesta about three, so I took at writing break at the library; a classic Carnegie building with a truly pleasant addition.

I pedaled to the outside of town to my warmshowers host. We had a bit of miscommunication, and Eric only offered camping Thankfully the night was beautiful and his yard lush. My second night of sleeping outdoors was terrific.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Profile Response: Jim Magagna, Executive Vice-President Wyoming Stock Grower’s Association Cheyenne, WY

HWWLT Logo on yellowThe Wyoming Stock Grower’s Association was founded in 1872, eighteen years before Wyoming joined the Union. It is the oldest trade association in the state, which reflects the importance of ranching in Wyoming. Cattle are the WSGA’s primary focus, though most issues relevant to cattle also pertain to sheep.

The agency is located within blocks of the Wyoming State Capital. Although the state legislature is favorably disposed to the needs of ranchers, WSGA puts special focus on state issues during Wyoming’s short legislative sessions (40 days for General Assembly in odd numbered years and 20 days for Budget Assembly in even numbered years). “Beyond that, most of our focus is on the plethora of new federal regulations.” These include grazing rights on public lands, endangered species protection, and water distribution. “Our job is to weigh in on behalf of cattle growers on any regulations or legislation that affects their interests.”

IMG_2782Cattle production is in an unusual position right now. The number of animals in production is the smallest since the 1970’s; Wyoming has 25% fewer head. Beef consumption is also down 8 to 10 percent. Yet the industry is resilient and profitable. In the last two years the United States has witnessed record high cattle prices and we export 19% of our national production. However, we also import ‘trim meat’, mostly from Australia and New Zealand, to mix into bulk ground beef because American feedlot beef alone is too fatty for hamburger. The cattle industry’s success is due in part to individual animals being much larger than their predecessors as a result of improved feeding techniques. Ninety percent of cattle graze free range for part of their life, but yearlings go to a feedlot. Jim acknowledges some demand for fully free-range cattle, and people willing to pay a premium for that. But free-range cattle are a tiny fraction of the total market.

IMG_2781Sheep production is in greater decline. Sheep have more predators and require a different kind of supervision: 24/7 labor for months at a time. Jim uses this as an example of WSGA’s advocacy work. Since the 1950’s, shepherds; originally from the Basque region of Spain, more recently from Peru or Chile, were governed by Department of Labor rules that allowed them to live in mobile housing and work up to 33 months with the herd. Recently, Legal Services in Colorado brought suit questioning these labor practices. New rules are up for review. WSGA considers the current proposals impractical and, if implemented, will make raising sheep economically impractical in this country.

Jim Magagna has a personal interest in raising sheep; he owns a sheep ranch in the Western part of Wyoming. At one time he ran 8,000 head, now that number is in the hundreds. During the summer he spends three to four days a week on his ranch, but he doesn’t handle daily operations. His sheep graze on about 200,000 acres, of which Jim owns less than five percent. The rest is permitted grazing, on Federal Land or through other arrangements.

IMG_2784WSGA occupies an interesting position within the web of organizations focused on sustainability. Jim describes animal rights groups and extreme environmental groups as threats to ranching, but mainstream conservation groups consider ranching a benign way to preserve open space. Being from a small state, population-wise, Jim regrets that Wyoming doesn’t have a larger voice in our nation’s sustainability discussion. “We can work with conservation groups on sustainability, but we can’t work with folks who are anti-growth.”

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_2779“The global demand for red meat will continue to grow as more countries become more affluent. We can produce much more efficiently.”

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 93 – Yellowstone National Park to Gardiner, MT

Screen Shot 2015-08-07 at 2.00.21 PMAugust 6, 2015 – Sun and clouds, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 111

Miles to Date: 5,295

States to Date: 21

I saw more of Yellowstone than I anticipated, which turned out to be good thing. I planned to leave my campsite at Grant Village and take the west side of the Grand Loop, to see Old Faithful and then head north on US 89 past most of the geysers to Gardiner, MT. However, a ranger told me there was 17 miles of construction, i.e. gravel, north of Norris. So I revised my 76-mile route into 110 miles by taking in Old Faithful and then looping back to Yellowstone Canyon, up and over Mount Washburn, past Tower Falls and back through the northern tier of the park to get to Gardiner. I began at break of day and spent thirteen hours pedaling, stopping at vistas, and talking to folks.

IMG_3343

The requisite picture of Old Faithful

IMG_3344I was intrigued by how many people were glued to their lens throughout the entire event. A worker in the Park told me that selfie-stacks are the most popular sales item.

 

 

 

IMG_3345

The steam glistens off the smooth earth in the morning light.

IMG_3353

Nearly twenty years after the 1988 fires, new longpole pines are growing through the fire debris.

IMG_3348

Gibbon Meadow is a beautiful stretch of mountain scenery.

IMG_3349 IMG_3351

Gibbon falls are spectacular. I met Michael Joseph Oswald, author of Your Guide to the National Parks. His camera would probably not even fit in my panniers: his books must have terrific photos.

IMG_3358 IMG_3355

I was in the Canyon area at lunchtime, the only time I experienced the impact of over three million summer visitors to the park. The canyon is incredible, the chaos of people, traffic, and animal gawking a lot less inspiring.

IMG_3361

Everything calmed down as I climbed up Mount Washburn.

IMG_3365

This outcropping that towers over the road blew me away.

IMG_3370 IMG_3371

The northern portion of the park is the least spectacular, yet I found it very satisfying in the early evening light, and Undine Falls was a treat to close my Yellowstone day.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Profile Response: Tom Wann, Cheyenne, WY

HWWLT Logo on yellowIt’s not unusual to live without a car in New York or Chicago, easy to do in Boston or Minneapolis, and takes special planning to manage in Portland, ME or Milwaukee. But Tom Wann lives carless in Cheyenne WY, which makes him unique indeed. Interestingly, Tom doesn’t live downtown, which, like so many smaller cities relies on funk rather than essentials to drive its economy. Tom lives three miles away from Depot Square, in a ranch house on a suburban street that he selected because it’s three miles to his office at Blue Cross of Wyoming, and a block away from a strip center with an Albertson’s, a few eateries, and a decent bar. His two-car garage has three bikes in it plus a bike trailer that he uses on big shopping days.

Aside from not owning a car, Tom is a true representative of what I think of as the American West. He has clear, well-reasoned ideas about how we ought to do things unmuddied by ideology or the distracting opinions of people who live too close to one another.

Taxes: charge everyone 10% on every purchase, income, and property. Split it 50/50 between the state and the feds. Have an election every year and let people vote how to allocate their tax money. Let them vote on more for highways, more for education, less for defense.

Gun Control: Create a rigorous educational and registration program for anyone who wants to own and carry a gun. Tom figures it will take about 40 hours of training in gun handling and maintenance, psychological tests, and firearm safety. Make people pay a fee for the training and registration. Once passed, they can carry any weapon anywhere except where there are armed personnel guards (like the White House). This will stop the crazy pattern of people going on shooting sprees in places where they know others will be unarmed, like schools and churches. If psychotics know that trained, armed people are everywhere, they will stop killing.

IMG_2788Tom’s ideas are consistently fresh and often bold, but not half-baked. He’s a well-considered college graduate, eleven-year Army veteran, a Master Sergeant in the Special Forces who served three tours in Iraq. He even applies his straightforward honesty to himself. After leaving the Army and finishing his Bachelor’s in Computer Animation, Tom was unemployed for months before he landed a job as a Security Guard. “The problem with Vets is that we think so highly of ourselves. We have all these great skills, combat skills, readiness skills; but we can’t adjust to civilian life and our skills aren’t easy to transfer. That’s why so many turn to drugs or alcohol or have mental issues. I just faced reality and became a security guard.”

Tom eventually landed a career-path position on the IT staff of Blue Cross of Wyoming. He eyes shine when he describes the automation potential. “I like technology. I get excited about technology. I get TOO excited about technology. The people I work with are, like, ‘I don’t know how to use computers,’ and I’m like, fellow, computers have been around for sixty years, its time to get on board.”

Tom’s mother moved her daughter and son from outside Baltimore to Good Rock WY when Tom was nine. Aside from his time in the military, Tom’s spent most of his time since then in Wyoming and Colorado. More than a year ago, Tom and his wife split up. That’s when he decided to buy his house, sell his car, and get more involved in cycling. “I ride to work every day. The faster I ride the better I feel. One day I left work really mad; I rode home in 10 minutes 23 seconds. I felt great when I walked in the door.”

Cheyenne’s cycling community has become one of Tom’s main social outlets: group rides, charity events, and social evenings. It has been a good community while Tom continues to adjust to being single. “I never really wanted to have kids, so when I was 25 I did the V-thing. The dating scene for a 33-year-old atheist with no car who doesn’t want kids is pretty limited in Christian Wyoming.” Tom laughs when he says this, as if he doesn’t really believe it. I sure don’t.

How will we live tomorrow?

“I would like to think that we are going to make the world better for others, if not for ourselves.”

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 92 – Jackson, WY to Yellowstone National Park

Jackson to YellowstoneAugust 5, 2015 – Overcast, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 79

Miles to Date: 5,185

States to Date: 20

IMG_3306

The Grand Tetons are magic! I pedaled in their shadow for over thirty miles, and was mesmerized by their dynamic angles, immense scale, and the play of light and shadow. I woke to light rain and a grey forecast but pushed out for the long ride up to Yellowstone. The first twenty miles followed a new bike path out of Jackson, into Grand Teton Park, all the way to South Jenny Lake. The rain never turned serious. As I rode, the Tetons morphed from looming shadows to stark relief.

IMG_3311 IMG_3318 IMG_3322

After breakfast at the South Jenny camp area I had thirty solid miles along the Teton Range. The glacier at Mount Morain is impressive, though dwindling. The highway curves around Lake Jackson, which offers spectacular views of Morain from many angles.

IMG_3325

I stopped for lunch and enjoyed great bacon mac’n’cheese at a restaurant along the five-mile stretch between Teton and Yellowstone Parks. Refueled, I headed into a national park I have long dreamed of visiting.

The southern portion of Yellowstone is the Teton’s figure-ground cousin. The Tetons splendor is easy to see: the roads in the wide valley are generous; the mountains rise like knives out of the plain. In Yellowstone, the view from the road reveals only millions of longpole pine trees. But as the road cants up, giant crevices and deep canyons fall off on either side. You have to stop at intermittent turnoffs to appreciate them. Riding along the base of the Tetons filled me with awe at the giant sculptural forms. Pedaling along the narrow Yellowstone Road with no shoulder and big drop-offs triggered my vertigo, though I enjoyed many scenic pit stops along the way.

IMG_3333 IMG_3329

When I stopped at the Continental Divide the sky behind me was black, lightning raging. I cycled four miles downhill to the Grant Village Visitor Center, and arrived at 4:30 p.m. By the time the rain caught up with me, I was safe inside. I stayed there until 7 o’clock closing, during which time I met Laura, a lovely French woman who works in San Francisco and loves to travel the West. She invited me to diner with her boyfriend, Olivier, and we had a lovely meal. Afterward we all attended an informative, funny ranger program on bears. By ten the rain had stopped the stars were bright, and I spent my first night sleeping outside. (FYI: reservations for any accommodation at Yellowstone have to made months in advance, which is not my style. However, they provide same day tents sites for hikers and cyclists. Isn’t that great!)

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Profile Response: John Verser, Managing Editor of The Western Nebraska Observer, Kimball, NE

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowThe Western Nebraska Observer began publishing in 1885; John Versey became Managing Editor last September. I was interested how small town newspapers fare in the Internet age, and was intrigued that a young man from Arkansas would move to Nebraska to take the helm of this newspaper that has four full-time employees and a part time sportswriter (who is pushing eighty and has covered local sports in this part of the panhandle for fifty years).

imgresThe Western Nebraska Observer is one of three local papers owned by an out-of-state conglomerate. It’s printed every Wednesday in nearby Sydney, for Thursday delivery. The paper runs from 16 to 24 pages, sports being the biggest variant in its size.

According to John, the local paper has changed less than many other things in this world. Over 90% of the subscribers take the print edition, ads still create the largest revenue stream, and classifieds are still strong. “We may not have as many cars for sale was used to, but employment ads, garage sales, and rentals are still listed here rather than on Craigslist.”

imagesJohn believes the local paper will be relevant for the long haul because they cover things people want to know, that no one else covers. “People read the paper to see their friends and neighbors. Nobody else is going to go to the county events, the city hall meetings, the school board. Facebook offers bits and pieces; the Internet age is not invading this area. We cover it all.”

Still, John is making changes that reflect this unique form of communication. “In February we started a ‘Friends and Neighbors’ feature. It profiles a person or couple from our community. It fills the bottom of the front page and is very popular.

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_2762“As far as the newspaper goes, I don’t think there will be a lot of change as long as do what we do well, which is to cover the community. We have an online edition and have started to add web video. It is just another revenue stream.

“Everyone says that print is going to die. I don’t necessarily agree.”

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment