Profile Response – Martin Lucaj, Owner of Fino’s Restaurant, Monroe, MI

 

HWWLT Logo on yellow“America, America, even now; everyone wants to come here. That never changes.’

Martin Lucaj came to the United States 1969 from Yugoslavia. He spent most of his life as a truck driver. “I’ve been to every state, except Alaska and Hawaii.” He raised eight children, several of whom work at Fino’s, a family restaurant on Route 125 in Monroe, which he bought three years ago. “It keeps them busy and lets me keep my eye on them.”

When I arrived for an early lunch, Martin was sitting at the counter reading a paper. He struck up a conversation and when I toted my panniers to a booth, brought his coffee and sat opposite me. We talked while I ordered the gyro special, drank three tall glasses of Diet Pepsi, dipped my fries in ketchup, and devoured a gyro too juicy to set down once begun. When the waitress brought more napkins to clean my fingers, Martin picked up the tab.

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Martin has an SUV, an RV, two motorcycles and a pair of bicycles. He walked out with me inspect the Surly; most interested in my dual brake configuration. I asked if he ever goes back what was Yugoslavia. “My mother is still alive. I go back, but only because I have to.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“I want to take my motorcycle up to Alaska. I want to get in my RV and travel to Arizona. I love warm weather. What am I doing in Michigan?”

 

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Trip Log – Day 51 –Mandan, ND to Dickinson, ND

Mandan to Dickinson NDJune 25, 2015 – Sun and rain, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 97

Miles to Date: 3,145

States to Date: 14

Today’s the day! I am now on officially on my longest bike trip to date. In 2011 I cycled 3,050 miles from Denver to Boston in 42 days (blog links). I averaged over 72 miles a day. This trip, due to its length and my question, my objective is 50 miles per day; though so far, due to my good weather, I’m ahead of that target.

IMG_2579The 3,050-mile milestone is a good point to consider how bicycle travel has changed for me in the past four years. There are many similarities. Cafes serve uniformly solid food. My hunger is often more persistent than my interest in food; sometimes I just can’t bother eating more. I still manage to never pay more than $100 a might for a motel room, and I like the $50 rooms better. Cows still like me; every head of every herd turns to watch me pass. And Murphy’s Law of Wind still applies – the wind is always in my face.

But there are significant differences. The biggest is technology. Four years ago I carried a camera, a flip phone and a parcel of paper maps. My iPhone 5S replaces all that. Last trip I rolled into a town and hoped for a motel, now I have reservations. Considering my question, I spend much more time on logistics than last trip. I contact warmshowers hosts and organizations to interview three to five days in advance. It’s a constant stream of inquiry, scheduling, and thank you’s; all impossible without handy Internet access.

Indians named Patel have cemented their lock on the independent motel market, and moved into the low-end chains. Outside of the Upper Mid-west, Patel’s rule my lodging world, and have done a lot to ramp up the typical Super 8. Why aren’t they in North Dakota, where there are so many jobs? Four years ago I managed to stay in independent places over 90% of the time. Now, there are many fewer left; about half my motel time is in chains. However, half my nights aren’t in motels at all – thanks to warmshowers. Although the site has been around over twenty years ago, I learned about it just before my trip and meeting so many gracious, incredible people has rocketed my personal experience and deepened the discussions of my question. Warmshowers takes the ‘economy’ out the ‘sharing economy’. It’s just about sharing. I’m warmshowers biggest fan.

The changes are significant, but the fundamental truths of cycle touring are intact. More motorists are nice than not. The two-wheel view of the country is amazing, and I meet people at their best.

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Despite the banner mileage, my day progressed with the challenges and rewards North Dakota offers. The Ridge Motel in Mandan didn’t even offer coffee, so I stopped at the adjacent convenience store. Amazing to see the diet of oil workers: a fistful of 20 ounces Mountain Dews, a pack of Marlboro’s and a bag of chips. I am such a lightweight with my trial mix and Diet Coke.

IMG_2586My proposed route of vintage highways that paralleled I-94 went bust after three stints on gravel. Beyond New Salem (with name painted on hillside in typical Western fashion) I buckled under and rode the Interstate forty miles. No services anywhere, not a lick of shade, not much fun. I took a break under a highway overpass. How lame.

Since there was no place to stop, I made good time. But I needed a real break and the afternoon sky threatened, so I exited at Richardton where Google cited a cafe. No cafe, but something much better: a newish grocery store with a prepared food section, seating and free Wi-Fi. If Whole Foods entered the rural market, this is what it would look like, though they’d probably modify the special of the day: two fried chicken breasts, mashed potatoes with gravy, fried rice, whole wheat roll and fruit chunks for dessert. $7.49. The food lady told me, “There are vegetables in the fried rice.” Maybe three peas and two diced carrots.

I stayed at Springfield Market three hours while storms swirled all around but never quite hit. When the western sky looked as good as it was going to get, I tackled the last 24 miles. This was great riding, on a rural road with a nice breeze and an incredible sky. For ten miles my poker straight path headed right to the clear spot between two storms. As I approached, the northern storm crept into my path and I got rained on for a few miles. Then all cleared and I was dry when I arrived in Dickinson.

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I will be here two nights, and was pleasantly surprised when my motel on the unpromising main drag turned out to be the BEST of the trip! Dual access room, for easy bike entry, cookies in the evening, nice dining room and full breakfast tomorrow. There’s an architectural rendering of the motel from the 1960’s in the lobby, when it must have been considered the height of style. The proprietress was very nice, though she dodged my question. Most people in North Dakota do. They acknowledge when I ask it, but act like I can’t possibly be directing it to them.

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Profile Response: Gordon Hille, Elmore, Ohio

HWWLT Logo on yellowGordon Hille’s Germanic roots run close to the surface. His northern European heritage directs his cultural, political, and religious compass, and provide the benchmark from which he considers the United States. Although Gordon as lived in the United States his entire life, his ancestral motherland still exercises a mighty pull on him.

“I think of myself as Lutheran, though I attend the United Church of Christ. The hierarchy of the Lutheran church is liberal, but American Lutheranism is problematic. My local congregation is very conservative. UCC accepts everyone; it is more contemporary. I miss the Lutheran liturgy, but I cannot agree with the positions of my local church.”

Gordon is simultaneously deeply religious and ecumenical. He’s a big supporter of the House of One (house-of-one.org), a proposed Christian church, Islamic Temple, Jewish Synagogue to be built in Berlin’s Petriplatz on a site where, in 1964, the East Germans destroyed the last of the Churches of Saint Peter.

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Gordon has been a Special Education teacher for many years, currently working with 18 to 22 year olds in an intermediate care facility. His work with people who will have little access to many opportunities influence what he sees as two major political issues: universal healthcare and gun control. Again, he views them through a European lens. “Americans are always concerned with rights; northern Europeans are concerned with their responsibilities.”

Elmore Ohio, a low-lying area just south of Lake Erie and east of Toledo, was settled later than many of its higher-ground neighbors. Gordon’s ancestors, farmers from Germany’s low lands who knew how to dredge, settled the area. “They represent an early example of balancing the individual and the collective. Everyone knew how to drain their fields, but they drained them into each other’s until they developed a central plan that drained all fields toward the river.”

How will we live tomorrow?
“In the past I’ve been conservative. The older I get, the more liberal I become. I attended the 1980 Republican Convention in Detroit and I’m a big Ayn Rand fan. Then I worked with migrants. One of my employees, who had a two-year-old son, came into work late. The child was not breathing properly. The man took his son to the hospital, and the hospital released him. The next day the boy died. A nurse I knew, who spoke Spanish, talked with the father, and later told me, given the child’s condition, he would been kept for observation overnight if the family spoke English and had insurance.

“I don’t have things all figured out, but I know the world isn’t fair. What I enjoy is the process of deliberation. But some people won’t engage in discussion. They believe they are always right. If there is no discussion, no deliberation, there can be no understanding.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 50 –McClusky, ND to Mandan, ND

Screen Shot 2015-06-25 at 6.38.50 AMJune 24, 2015 – Overcast, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 74

Miles to Date: 3,048

States to Date: 14

IMG_2549Passing storms through the night left a calm quiet morning. I pedaled west, and then south to Bismarck with great ease. The ponds on the side of the road were like glass, the fowl floating on the surface like they’re on vacation.

 

IMG_2547I cycled past Center Line Road; I am halfway through North Dakota. It looks more and more like the west, wide swales and more arid land. I came upon a Bureau of Reclamation project and know I am truly in the West. After seeing one, I realized how much engineering there is in this seemingly wild land: not only the straight roads and long power lines, but also the ponds along the road, usually at intersections. They’ve developed tall grass and a natural look, but they’re not natural.

IMG_254638 miles in I stopped for a late breakfast at Wilton. The County Line cafe was quiet mid morning. As I ate my bacon and eggs a solid guy walked in, landed at a table and ordered with a sigh. The waitress sat down and drew him out. His wife of 56 years is in the hospital with cancer. “I walk into the house and the quiet hits me. I know it hasn’t really hit me yet, but it will.” Kelly told him to come anytime he feels alone and suggested she and her children would come visit him. It was an intimate scene for a public place, but touching. I was too close to pretend I didn’t hear, so I introduced myself to the man and expressed sympathy. I didn’t ask him about tomorrow.

When I came out the weather had shifted. The wind picked up, clouds gathered, and light ran fell on my twenty miles to Bismarck. By the time I arrived at the North Dakota Heritage Center the weather lifted. I spent the afternoon interviewing Beth Campbell, Visitor Coordinator, viewing the exhibits and visiting the State Capital Building, surely the most unique in the land. Built in the 1930’s after the original capital burned, the Deco structure has no dome and isn’t even symmetrical. Imagine Rockefeller Center transported to the Prairie and used for government offices. I ran into James MacPherson, AP Reporter, who gave me more background on this boom. “You have to see it to believe it. There’s nothing else like it anywhere in the country. Of course, booms, by their nature, go bust.”

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I pedalede through downtown Bismarck, followed the bike trail along the Missouri River, and crossed over to Mandan. For dinner I tried Fleischkeuchle, a seasoned hamburger in a puff pastry. Once is an experience; I don’t need to order it again.

 

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Profile Response – Cathy and Don Mayles, Norwalk OH

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowCathy and Don Mayles are my housemate Paul’s sister-in-law Jean’s cousins. Hardly close relations, yet both Paul and Jean encouraged me to contact Cathy and Don, who welcomed me like family for a Saturday night in Norwalk, OH. Don grew up on the same street where they live; Cathy is from a nearby town. They met almost twenty years ago at a car show, clicked immediately, and have been married seventeen years. Life has handed them a fair share of challenges, yet they convey a quiet solidarity that together, they can surmount whatever comes their way.

IMG_2085Their car connection runs deep. Cathy and Don live in a modest house, but have a garage much larger than their home, which accommodates Don’s vintage ’72 Chevelle, restored ’71 pick-up, Honda S-2000, and a recent model sedan, in addition to a wide array of restoration tools, a few lazy-boy recliners, large screen TV and well-stocked beer fridge.

Cathy’s worked forty years for the hospital in Sandusky, which, given the changes in healthcare over that time, means she’s survived mergers and technological change. Don’s the foreman of the vehicle maintenance crew at Cedar Point Amusement Park in Sandusky. His first job, as a summer dishwasher, was at Cedar Point over thirty years ago. In between, Don’s had a variety of jobs from mechanic to truck driver, but he’s happy to be back at Cedar Point. “It’s a good business despite the economy. People always go to amusement parks, and they’re great at thinking up ways to make more money.” Don explained how a few years ago they instituted fast lanes. For an extra fee, people could go through a quicker line. “They made over $1 million the first year with that, and it didn’t cost a thing to move a few line markers.”

IMG_2083Don’s particular skill seems to be beating up his body and surviving. A bus ran over his arm, he broke his back in five places, lost a finger, shrapnel wedged through a vein into an artery, and his bicep tendon detached. “That was the most painful thing ever. They taped my upper arm to my chest and my shoulder joint froze.” Even more painful than the immunotherapy Don underwent for bladder cancer. He’s five years out from that diagnosis, and confident he’ll hit the seven-year mark of being cancer-free that signifies total remission. “I managed to beat myself up pretty good, but I’m still here. I’ve got a whole list of what can wrong, and how painful each injury is.”

IMG_2084Cathy and Don’s work ethic and integrity are apparent in every aspect of their lives. Regarding politics, Don says, “I like our governor, Kasich. He’s a businessman and runs Ohio like a business. He makes sure that everything stays under control. What happened in Ferguson and Baltimore, it could have happened in Cleveland (referring to Officer Michael Brelo’s acquittal), but it didn’t.

I ask Cathy and Don, “How will we live tomorrow?” They answer in unison: “Better.” Cathy goes on, “You live for today, because you never know what will happen.” Don adds, “I’ve learned to be patient. We can survive so much more than we think we can.”

On Sunday morning, grey and rainy, we linger over breakfast in their cozy kitchen. When the rain slows I put on my gear and head out. As I wave goodbye, Don calls from the driveway, “I’ll live better tomorrow having met you today.” That’s a pretty good line.

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Trip Log – Day 49 – Carrington, ND to McClusky, ND

Cooperstown ND to McClusky NDJune 23, 2015 – Blue skies, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 67

Miles to Date: 2,974

States to Date: 14

North Dakota is a big land but a small world. I met the same woman in two cafes a day apart. Then yesterday, while taking a break at a country church, I watched big trucks haul hay to a nearby clearing, where a huge funnel machine accepted the load and forced it into giant white plastic tubes, over one hundred feet long, that were clipped into protected bales. This morning, at motel breakfast, a guy approaches me, “Are you the guy on the bike at the church yesterday?” Lyle Orth and his two hands, from South Africa, had seen me while hauling hay. Lyle owns the baling equipment and contracts from farm to farm. Farmers get three or four hay crops a year, which they cut in the field. Lyle and his crew do the rest.

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I was on the road by 7:30. Sixty-five miles straight down North Dakota Route 200 to McClusky sounds so easy, but wind foils that notion. Still, I didn’t suffer any of yesterday’s frustration. I had all day and gave it over to pedaling slow and steady. Google told me there were towns with services at 14 and 28 miles out, though I was prepared to go the distance. One of the odd things about North Dakota geography is that highways don’t go through towns; they go near them. A highway in Ohio or Wisconsin almost always turns into Main Street. A North Dakota town might edge on a highway, or even be a mile off. I bypassed the 14 miles town; too soon to need a break, and did the same at 28 miles when Bowdon was a mile off Route 200. When I’m working this hard, I need a good reason to lengthen my route.

The other geographic challenge is that the scale of North Dakota is huge. A water tower in Minnesota signals a town three miles away. That town might be five, even seven miles off in North Dakota. Landscape features hang in front of me for a long time. By mile 40 I was seeking shade, just to sit down, eat a bar, and have water. I saw a shape on the horizon that looked like a church. As I pedaled near I realized it was just a configuration of trees around a town too small to even have a water tower. But better than a church or a water tower, Hurdston has Dairy King, where I had a burger basket, Diet Coke, ice cream cone, and a cool break.

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I resumed before three and got to McClusky by six. The land got more varied, more Western, with many shallow lakes (marshes?) along the road, full of fowl. The motel is out of town, so I stopped by the three-aisle grocery and got cereal and milk. I always crave crunchy on the road, and this will do for dinner and breakfast.

 

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Profile Response – Mike Sartor, Subway Manager, Wellington, OH

HWWLT Logo on yellowPeople often ask me, “What’s your favorite response to my question?” To date, I recall this man, who shared a response from deep in his heart.

I spent a few hours at the Subway in Wellington, OH, enjoying a Meal Deal lunch and using their wireless while waiting out two thunderstorms and repairing a flat tire. I spoke to a number of the staff, which seemed glad to have a connection with someone beyond a few moments. When my bike was repaired and the weather cleared I prepared to leave. Mike Sartor came out of the back with a bag of cookies for me. “They’re broken so we can’t sell them. Better you eat them than me.” We got to talk and I asked him my question.

How will we live tomorrow?

“Live life to the fullest.” Mike replied with an immediacy that indicated he had given it some thought.

He returned to the back and I finished packing up. As I stacked my tray he reappeared. “I want to give you some background to my answer.” I stood to listen. “My son died five years ago; he was 25. He had cancer, and when he was diagnosed his motto became “Live life to the fullest.” And he did. He moved to Chicago, went to cooking school and even ran a marathon. He fought his cancer for three and half years. Ever since he died, I’ve adopted his motto as my own.”

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Trip Log – Day 48 –Cooperstown, ND to Carrington, ND

Cooperstown ND to Carrington NDJune 22, 2015 – Puffy clouds, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 55

Miles to Date: 2,907

States to Date: 14

There were three men sitting at separate tables when I entered the Coachman Cafe for breakfast on a grey post-storm morning. So I took a place at another table. I got a cup of coffee, ordered eggs, toast, and hash browns; then topped that off with more coffee, biscuits and gravy. While I ate, the room dynamic shifted, and seven men sat in the center table, talking, playing dice, cajoling one particularly jovial, simple guy. During the hour I enjoyed breakfast, more than a dozen men came and went and passed the time of day. The only woman in the Coachman Cafe was the waitress, who circulated with her coffee pot every few minutes. It’s more difficult for me to engage in conversation with men than women, especially established groups, especially so early in the morning. So instead of asking my question I just eavesdropped on the conversation: weather, corn, hail, pick-ups, rain, driving to Fargo, washouts, fertilizer, weather. By nine, all the men were gone and everything changed at the Coachman Cafe. The place was full of women. I even met one lady from lunch the previous day in Page.

IMG_2500I rolled north a few miles to visit the Ronald Reagan Minuteman Missile Site. Director Guinn Hinson gave me a two-hour tour of a sober but fascinating place.

Heading back into town I began to worry about tomorrow – not a good thing for a guy with my question. I was supposed to take a rest day, and then pedal 113 miles to my next motel. Instead, I found a place 48 miles away, checked out early, had a hearty lunch of beef sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy, and rolled out of town by 2:00 p.m.

IMG_2525Those 48 miles were the hardest, but perhaps most rewarding, of my trip. The day was fine, the air sweet, the road smooth, the drivers polite, the grass giant waves in a billowing green sea. But the wind hammered me. Ten miles an hour was tough, even though the terrain was flat. I struggled for miles. And then, I stopped the struggle. Cycling in North Dakota is a Zen thing. Give up expectations; give up the idea that flat is easy; give up the idea that I’ll cover ten miles an hour. Downshift and just pedal. That’s all. Breathe, hum, or even sing, but don’t keep checking the odometer.

IMG_2524I stretched at a railroad crossing – there are few places to prop my bike here. Around mile 36 I needed a real break, but there are no side roads, no shade, nothing but a single strip of asphalt and the immense wind whistling past my ears. It’s easy to see why so many pioneers went crazy out here – the wind is relentless. The earth is silent, but the wind is deafening. I couldn’t hear vehicles coming from behind. Fortunately, they all gave me wide berth. I was so tired I considered stopping at whatever house appeared, just to get off my bike, eat a power bar and do a forward bend. Then, a little church appeared, abandoned but quaint as any in a model train village under a Christmas tree. The first church I’ve seen in North Dakota, a solitary silhouette against the giant sky.

IMG_2526I rolled my bike up the church lawn, leaned Surly against its steps, and stretched out on the porch. I surveyed the world from my perch and wondered what the heck I was doing here, at six o’clock in the evening, absolutely nowhere. Then I realized why we do this, why humans push our endurance and test our fortitude. We take our measure against nature, to understand how we stack up against the great forces. But also to appreciate the majesty of creation; to discover nuance in a place a broad as North Dakota: hearing the shimmering grass, triggering the bird flocks that rise up as I pass, feeling the temperature dip when a cumulus cloud casts me in shade. From the stoop of this postcard church on the High Plains, the earth is formidable, but I’m invigorated by its energy.

IMG_2523I didn’t go any faster the last 18 miles, but they passed with great enjoyment. I sang and wove and laughed at the wind. It was eight o’clock by the time I got to Carrington; I averaged just eight miles an hour. Carrington offered a nice motel and a pleasant view for two more hours of sunlight, but it’s not such an outstanding destination. Today was all about the journey.

 

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Profile Response Kim Conrad, Akron, Ohio

HWWLT Logo on yellowAt age 32, Kim Conrad has a more varied resume that many twice her age. I met Kim in Haiti, where she was a long-term volunteer at Mission of Hope and made a worthy contribution to our school construction there. She’s also been a pilot and aviation mechanic. Currently, Kim is a virtual assistant for the online company Zirtual. She’s been living in Akron for more than a year, one of the many places she considers home ever since her stint on staff in college ministry at University of Akron.

Kim and I met at Angel Falls Coffee Company, two days before Kim plans to move to Ouray, Colorado. “I’ve lived with 28 different people since college, and decided it was time for some solitude.”   Ouray is a small town of about a thousand people in southwest Colorado. Kim’s father retired there last year; Kim plans to live in the cabin her great grandmother built about 120326 Kim Hammerstwo miles outside of town. “I’ll get a waitress job in town to satisfy my extrovert side.” Like many moves in Kim’s life, this won’t be permanent. “The cabin isn’t winterized. If I like the area, I’ll move into town in the winter.” Kim doesn’t even bother to articulate a Plan B. She’s young, energetic, capable, and untethered to conventional notions of career or success. When life in Ouray plays out, another good option will reveal itself.

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’m trying to figure out myself. How am I going to choose to life? What will I deem important? Akron is good – I have community here and people I care about. But I’ve become stagnant here. My work at Zirtual is fine, but I can do it anywhere, and is it really helping anybody? I love aviation and working overseas. I’d like to find a good way to do that again. Right now I want to take my life to a new context. I don’t know what that is, but I do know it will involve people and purpose.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 47 –Fargo, ND to Cooperstown, ND

Fargo ND to Cooperstown NDJune 22, 2015 – sun, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 93

Miles to Date: 2,852

States to Date: 14

I woke refreshed, had a big Super 8 breakfast, and headed out on a beautiful calm morning. My route out of Fargo turned into gravel roads, so I reverted back into town and had my first experience riding my bike along the Interstate – four miles along I-29 until I hit old 81. It’s safe and easy, but I was happy to get on a local road. The wind was light, the Sunday traffic even lighter.

I turned west at Gardner for my thirty-mile stint to lunch. Every mile the wind picked up, and soon I was working hard just to maintain 8 or 9 miles per hour. With the wind in my face, North Dakota feels like Pennsylvania – without any downhill coasting. But when I picked my head out of my troubles, the landscape was huge. I’m always frustrated by the magnificence of my surroundings and how puny it appears in my 5S viewfinder. So I took a series; perhaps they will give a better perspective. Otherwise, the only way to experience the vastness is to cycle out here.

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By the time I arrived in Page, the wind was fierce and I was bushed. I knew Page had a grocery and a cafe, but I didn’t know whether either would be open on Sunday. Worst case, the town would have a shade tree where I could sit and eat food from my pannier. Lucky me, the cafe was open, so I settled into a long break. I arrived at the end of the after-church rush, talked with folks, and then ordered the Sunday buffet – a collection of salads long on mayonnaise and pasta, with enough veggies, tuna, and chicken to make them both filling and healthy.

IMG_2482Within thirty minutes I was the only customer, but the place was open all afternoon, so I stayed over two hours. When I paid, the waitress explained that the Cafe is community-owned. “No one could make a living running this place, but the town wants a cafe.” That probably explains why I saw waitresses sitting with customers and people wandering in and out of the kitchen.

IMG_2483As I rode out of town I noticed that half of the main street storefronts were now community enterprises – a senior center, an auditorium. What Page lacks in commercial enterprise it replaces with community services.

The wind died down as the mercury rose. It was 94 degrees when I reached Hope around 5 p.m. I spotted a gas station off the highway and hoped for a cold drink, only to find everything shuttered and one vending machine humming in the shade. Seventy-five cents for a can of soda. I had a single quarter – a mangled thing I picked off the pavement when I locked my bike in Becker MN – and a five-dollar bill. I was debating whether a cold soda was worth five bucks, when I noticed two quarters sitting in the change tray. So, I got a Coke Zero thanks to a two guys too busy to collect their change and a quarter picked off the ground: the benefit of being a slow moving, observant, touring cyclist.

IMG_2486I sat on the concrete in the shade of the gas station, enjoyed my drink and appreciated Hope’s happy water tower.

Back on the road, I ground out the last 25 miles. The risk of taking a long lunch break is that the afternoon thunderclouds will catch me in a storm. Fortunately, I ducked them all and arrived at Cooperstown around 7:30 p.m., tired but content. The motel office isn’t open on Sundays, but the staff left my key in the door. Despite being the center of our Cold War nuclear missiles, security’s not too tight here. My housemate Paul wanted to know that kind of room $46 a night buys in North Dakota: clean but not fancy.

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I took a short walk around town, cycling always leaves me needing to stretch my legs, and had a long Father’s day chat with Andy. My daughter is in Cambodia, my son on the Hamptons, and I’m in North Dakota: a pretty diverse family. When the sun finally set, the thunder exploded and the sky poured rain, I was safe and asleep.

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