Trip Log – Day 65 – Laramie, WY

Cheyenne to LaramieJuly 9, 2015 – Thunderstorms, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 12

Miles to Date: 3,839

States to Date: 17

I spent the day in Laramie, visiting a slew of interesting people and one spiritual brother.

My warmshowers hosts made an awesome breakfast of eggs and bacon plus pancakes with orange juice and coffee. Fueled for the day, I went to the Night Heron book store to meet my cousin Andy’s Antioch friend, Vicky, a thoughtful and inspiring kindergarten teacher who exemplifies the transplant’s love of Laramie that I find everywhere here.

IMG_2798Afterward I met with Bright Agrotech, a local company with a cool vertical grow agriculture system. We didn’t meet at their headquarters. Rather we met downtown where their system provides truly local herbs for a restaurant – grown on the other side of the wall from where they’re served. Beside offering quick growing local food, Bright Agrotech is superfast with their media; our video interview is already up on YouTube.

IMG_2806Then I was off to Crossfit 7720 to learn about this cutting edge fitness regimen. Why 7720? Because Laramie is 7220 feet above sea level. They invited me for a workout, which I did.

Whoa, it’s a tough workout, especially at this altitude.

 

During a break from heavy thunderstorms I set out alone to fulfill the primary reason I came to Laramie: to absorb local sites related to Matthew Shepard. I went by the bar where he met his killers, the memorial bench that University of Wyoming placed within the quad, and finally rode five miles outside of town to see where, almost twenty years ago, the young gay man was tied, beaten, and abandoned. Aside from the innocuous bench, Laramie has done everything it can to wipe away this heinous crime. The bar’s had a face lift and fresh title, the streets names around the site have been changed, private property signs abound. Nothing about my 24 hours here gives any clue as to why such a hate crime happened in this seemingly benevolent place. Yet it did. And the horror of it changed things, for me and for many others.

IMG_2792Aside from a few flowers on the bench, there is no proper way to pay tribute to Matthew Shepard, whose senseless death was so abhorrent it triggered an outpouring of human decency. Matthew will never get married in Wyoming, but he is part of the reason that others like him can. I wanted to thank him for what we have all gained through his suffering.

Two deer came by and grazed close to me for several minutes. When they left I took it as my sign to leave as well.

 

 

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Profile Response: Pandora and Mark Brewer Mount Prospect, IL

HWWLT Logo on yellowPandora and Mark Brewer are the most unconventional Mormons, avid movie buffs, and all around engaging people I know. We were Cambridge neighbors when our sons attended grade school together. After Mark finished his PhD. in Japanese History, they moved to the Chicago area to further Pandora’s career at Crate & Barrel. My children and I visited them a few times during Oscar season. Ten years passed until I stayed with them one night during my trip; our first visit as empty nesters.

How will we live tomorrow?

imgres“I am fascinated by how science fiction writers envision life and how it plays out. There is this relationship between narrative that tries to predict the future, portrayed as how we live now; and our current reality, how we lived back then. The author’s role is to help us see the past, today, or tomorrow. It’s always a story; we’re always crafting it.

“I want to be able to bring the future I envision of me as an older person – wise, generous witty – to become a reality. We have to live every day to be the person we want to be.

“When I struggle in life, I find reasons in literature. My genre is science fiction. This makes me feel like I am the protagonist of my own story.

imgres-2“I am the managing editor of a Mormon Women’s Magazine, Exponent II. It’s all about women telling stories. The point it not the perfect story, but putting your story out there.

Pandora, Brewer, Quilter, Editor, Mother, Wife, Mount Prospect, IL

 

How will we live tomorrow?

images“My initial answer is pretty much the way we live today. However, we have all this private media. We can converse with whomever we want, watch what we want, live in a private world.

“My grandmother was two years old when the Titanic sunk, and twenty-seven when the Hindenburg went down. Neither was culturally significant for her the way we think of these events now. Time has weighted their importance. Twenty years ago I had a landline. Now, I have a cell phone. I don’t know how the change happened; it was just a logical extension. The future will not look that different because it will unfold one day at a time.

imgres-3“The Victorian novel would be thirty pages long if they had cellphones; all those miscommunications and mishaps wouldn’t have happened. Yet we still have novels, and we still have miscommunications. That’s why Euripides is still relevant. We don’t have what we want; we will never get everything we want. That is what being human is.”

Mark Brewer, Actor, Historian, Father, Husband, Mount Prospect, IL

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Trip Log – Day 64 – Cheyenne, WY to Laramie, WY

Cheyenne to LaramieJuly 8, 2015 – Rain, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 59

Miles to Date: 3,827

States to Date: 17

I was up, coffeed, oatmealed, and packed by six. I stopped at Albertson’s to belly up on yogurt and cinnamon buns before tackling the 50-mile desolate stretch from Cheyenne to Laramie on a featureless grey morning, spitting rain. My warmshowers host Tom warned me – it’s up all the way, until the last nine miles, which are straight down.

Tom is a trustworthy guide. I left Cheyenne (elevation 6,062) and pedaled long stretches of gentle rise. The higher I climbed, the greyer the sky became. The hissing energy of the West flanked my left – crackling power lines and flittering windmills. Vast ranches lay to my right – cows lined tight to the fence with their inscrutable gaze fixed on my tiny form. Yet the immense grey sky dominated them both and the crisp fresh air was infiltrated by musky char from the giant fires in Canada that have laid a haze over the entire continent.

IMG_2791Fifteen miles in I could make out the profile of distant ridges, not so far away to pretend I wouldn’t have to climb them. The rain came stronger as I pedaled higher. The wind was light, and it’s safer to pedal up rain streams than down them. When I reached the ridge crest the rain was steady. It bounced off the road, into my shoes, up and around my fenders. The precipice was a false peak, followed by a dozen more. Short shallows followed by long climbs. Another reprieve; another climb. The rain puttered away to nothing. So did the visibility. I rolled though dense fog, glad to have enough shoulder to veer clear of intermittent vehicles.

The sky lightened up at 36 miles, so I took a break and had a snack. I hadn’t stopped for two minutes when I realized that all around me was dark. Worse was coming from any direction. So, I got back in the saddle and pedaled on, another six miles into the spirit realm of foggy invisibility. Rolling through the atmosphere I could have been on an English heath or Russian steepe or Argentine plateau. There was nothing distinct about my particular location. Yet the ambiguity was gentile and light. I didn’t feel lost or afraid. The solid road and easy wind robbed the rain and fog of danger.

Out of nothing a Stop sign appeared. I was finally at the summit, 8,600 feet, and Interstate 80, though I couldn’t see it and could barely hear it. I eased my way onto the ramp and kept to the shoulder for several miles of 5% grade. With each passing mile the fog lifted, distinct clouds formed, the sides of the adjacent cliffs displayed their rock faces. Within half an hour I dropped to 7100 feet and was in Laramie.

For some reason I hoped that coming off this ethereal climb would make Laramie different. But of course it isn’t. After all, I am in the United States. U.S. 30 has the same Wal-Mart and Applebees as every other commercial strip.

imagesUniversity of Wyoming is larger than I expected; the sandstone buildings are stunning. Downtown is nice, with just enough funk to be interesting. I had the lunch buffet at Grand Pizza, which was quite good. By the time I finished lunch the rain had stopped, so I toured city and campus by bike, took a writing break, and enjoyed a terrific conversation and dinner with Linda and Phil, my warmshowers hosts.

 

 

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Profile Response – Abhi Ganju, Chicago, IL

HWWLT Logo on yellowAbhi Ganju and I met at a healthcare design conference in 2011 and have been Internet friends since. Abhi is from New Delhi, India. She immigrated to the United States as a young physician and had a specialty practice in asthma and allergies for thirty-five years. When we met she was also turning her passion for photography into a business (www.abhisphotos.com), creating photographic art suited for healthcare environments. Last year she retired from medicine and has expanded her artistic pursuits to painting; oils, pastels, and currently water color. We met for lunch on Chicago’s Southside to reconnect and talk about tomorrow.

imgres-1“I love photography, but making a business of it required more time marketing than creating. I still have clients, and happy to have more, but I’m more involved in making art than trying to sell it.” Abhi reached a plateau in her photography and realized that she wanted a different avenue of expression. “You can only take a photograph of what is there. The whole game is excluding things from the frame. With painting, I have more freedom to create the entire composition. Right now I am getting my brush mileage. First, I have to learn the craft, and then focus on composition. I am already good at that from photography, but in painting it’s different. Then I’ll develop better drawing skills, all before I can have a personal vision.”

images-2Abhi’s description of the steps she’ll take to become a satisfied painter led us to discuss Malcolm Gladwell’s concept in Outliers, that it takes 10,000 hours of work to master any task. Abhi mastered being a physician and a photographer, while I mastered being an architect and writer. Now we are both pushing different interests a deeper level: she painting; me cycling.

I ask Abhi about the pull that brought her to the United States. “In the 1970’s and 1980’s the United States gave green cards to almost any physician or nurse who wanted to come.” Although Abhi’s family had traditionally been farmers, her father became a doctor and established a professional precedent for Abhi and her two brothers. They each came here, and eventually their parenimages-3ts followed. Abhi’s two sons live in the United States; she has no immediate family in India. “This is where I experienced true freedom. Here, if I am willing to work hard I can get what I want. People who are born here sometimes take that for granted, but for people from other countries, the freedom here is very real.”

How will we live tomorrow?

imgresAbhi laughed, “Everywhere in the world people are wearing blue jeans. That won’t change, In India, people even wear them on formal occasions.”

Then she added, more seriously, “My hope and wish that we will live in a world of clean air and water, renewable energy, equality, and kindness towards all living creatures.”

Then, as we finished our lunch and said our goodbyes, “To me, this is the most exciting part of life; when we are done with survival needs and can truly explore our own intellectual potential.”

 

 

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Trip Log – Day 63 – Pine Bluff, WY to Cheyenne, WY

Pine Bluff to CheyenneJuly 7, 2015 – Overcast, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 49

Miles to Date: 3,768

States to Date: 17

The sky dome was complete grey when I left the Pine Bluffs and it stayed that way all day. I was nervous about my route options – they all involved service roads or country roads that I know from experience might be gravel. But not in Wyoming! A nice paved route near, but never on, I-80 all the way to Cheyenne. Having good roads made it easier to counter the strong wind and occasional rain.

IMG_2773There were no breakfast options in Pine Bluffs, but there was a TA Truck Stop 24 miles away and a local one 16 miles on. I arrived at the first when the wind and rain were on an uptick, so I pulled off the bleak landscape and entered what could have been a scene from The Twilight Zone. The room was rich in pungent smells and colorful decorations. Five Indians sat at two separate tables speaking Punjab. I didn’t realize at first that they were the owners and staff; I the only customer. The proprietor greeted me graciously and while his son prepared spicy paan with yogurt and mango chutney for breakfast, he showed off his display of boxing clippings and medals. The gentleman’s English was enthusiastic rather than clear, so I’m not sure exactly what sport he championed and whether he won 400, 800, or 1,000 medals, but I was impressed nonetheless. The food didn’t match what I ordered, but was quite good; the five dollars he charged me had no relationship to any menu price. But we both seemed satisfied with our interchange. When I asked what brought him from Punjab to Wyoming, the man answered, “Lucky!”

IMG_2786I kept on to Cheyenne, which proved to be much more of a city than I expected. The exurbs have ugly, boxy houses just like any metro area and the central city has more one-way streets than anyplace I’ve been since Chicago. The Capital District is large and impressive, the downtown a bit ragged but the Union Depot beautifully restored. The painted Cowboy boots on the street corners are fun. I spent a few hours working in the Public Library, a recent building filled with cycle enthusiasts who wanted to know about my Surly and my journey. At four I met with Jim Magagna of the Wyoming Stock Grower’s Association, who had a unique perspective on tomorrow.

IMG_2784I backtracked to the northeast part of town where my warmshowers host, Tom, made a terrific pork chop dinner and then we hit a local pub for beer. Tom’s an early riser, so it was good by me that we were both in bed just after nine.

 

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Profile Response: Vicki Nelson, Kalamazoo, MI

HWWLT Logo on yellowVicki Nelson and I have pursued parallel professional and personal paths for nearly twenty years. We first met working on the New Bronson Hospital in the 1990’s; I worked for the primary design firm, Shepley Bulfinch; Vicki worked for our local Affiliate, Diekema Hamann in Kalamazoo. Over the years, Deikema Hamann’s healthcare expertise grew and they took ever larger responsibility for Bronson projects while my role evolved into conceptual planning and strategy; a successful collaboration on both sides. Vicki and I also shared common experiences raising children and working in developing countries: me in Haiti, Vicki in Guatemala. So it came as no surprise when we met for lunch in Kalamazoo during my post-retirement cycling adventure that Vickie told me she was retiring within the week. Tomorrow was much on her mind.

imgres“I’m turning 60 and realized that my heart was less and less in the work of being a Principal in the firm. I was going through the process, giving my clients more than they expected, but I wanted the opportunity to do other things. I want days that aren’t scheduled. I have a list of things I want to do, but don’t feel pressed by it. They are just good opportunities.

“I’ve been to Guatemala eleven times, working primarily with a school that a nun started toward the end of the Civil War. Now I can be more involved. My partner Bruce has been involved in the school since 2003, when he first met Sister Celeste. He took her idea, was Director for a time, and turned it into a sustainable non-profit. He’s an estate attorney. That may not sound like a good venue for non-profit work, but he works with people who have lots of money and can sometimes suggest ways to distribute it beyond passing it down within a family.”

imgres-1Vicki’s experiences in Guatemala mirror my own in Haiti in providing positive counterpoints to life in the United States. “There’s this guy who started a school in a bus terminal. The terminal is full of shoeshine boys and vendors whom he teaches between customers. His strategy is not just to impart information but identify the gaps in information. The boys learn to read from stories in books. The question the teacher asks is always, ‘Who’s not in the story’. The answer, of course, is shoeshine boys and people like them. This triggers the boys’ interest in writing, in telling their own stories.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“Lighter.”

“In part because we have to; we can’t keep consuming so much. Younger people don’t want all this stuff; they want to live in an urban setting and not have to drive.

“But also because the word connotes a positive attribute. We are so much heavier than we used to be: we are physically bigger; we occupy more square footage; we extract a larger environmental footprint. Everything is too big. Lighter will actually be better.”

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Trip Log – Day 62 – Scottsbluff, NE to Pine Bluff, WY

Scottsbluff to Pine BluffJuly 6, 2015 – Overcast, 65 degrees

Miles Today: 69

Miles to Date: 3,719

States to Date: 17

Today marks the first day of month three of my cycling adventure, and everything was different! I woke up ten hours after I put my head on the pillow, in the exact same position I laid down – now that is sound sleep. I wasn’t ravenous, thanks to yesterday’s hearty china buffet. And the usual clear morning sky had turned to putty.

IMG_2754I pedaled through downtown Scottsbluff. I wasn’t hungry enough for a full breakfast, but I did savor their Deco movie palace. I crossed the swollen and muddy North Platte River to Gering where, hungry or not, I couldn’t resist the bakeries. I ate my first Grebel, a German fried cake with cinnamon sugar and allspice at The Mixing Bowl. Then I discovered the Gering Bakery, which was packed, and so enjoyed a Long John and chocolate milk. Stopping at bakeries may become my avocation.

IMG_2758 IMG_2759

I was fully fueled for the long climb out of the valley and the cycling was easy: cool weather, no sun, even a tailwind. The gloom obscured famous Chimney Rock, but it didn’t erase the many signs of the Oregon Trail, which passed through this valley. I pondered the people who travelled so long and hard fueled by hope and determination rather than pastry. We humans are an odd lot, part herd animal, part lone wolf, social yet solitary, clinging to our past yet always questing for more. The Oregon Trail is not a mere historical artifact. It’s another piece in the human continuum for expansion; predated by seafarers and followed by our conquest of space. The will to leave all behind and strike out for the new and better is elemental: there are more immigrants/refugees/wanderers/explorers on earth today than at any time in history.

Deep, diffuse thoughts burn cycle time, and I was in Kimball just after noon. I met with John Versay, the General Manager of the Western Nebraska Observer, local newspaper since 1885, to discuss small town news and tomorrow. He recommended the Java Blend for lunch; the stone fired pizza is excellent; worth the side trip from the Oregon Trail and even closer to I-80.

The last twenty miles of my trip was along old US 30, America’s central artery; Interstate 80 was a half-mile to my right, the main line of the Union Pacific 500 feet on my left. Long fright trains went by in each direction every half an hour or so, hauling cars, food, lumber, oil. My road was empty, not a soul lived within miles, and yet all this traffic kept whizzing by.

IMG_2764 IMG_2766

I got to Pine Bluffs, WY after four and had to stop at the huge Our Lady of Peace Shrine outside of town. I checked into the Gater Motel and enjoyed a quiet night.

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Profile Response: Mike Way and the Bronson Healthcare Innovation Team, Kalamazoo, MI

HWWLT Logo on yellowFor more than fifteen years I was privileged to work with Bronson Healthcare in Kalamazoo, MI. Since 1997, when I was a member of the design team for their replacement hospital, until I retired in 2013, I participated in dozens of planning, design and operations projects. During that time Bronson grew from a 280-bed community hospital to a teaching hospital and regional healthcare system with over 500 inpatient beds and ancillary facilities in several Michigan communities. Bronson is a leader in innovative medical care, wellness, and education. It has received many awards for medical care and a supportive work environment. In 2005 Bronson won the prestigious Malcolm Baldridge Award.

imgres-1I met with Mike Way, Vice-President Facilities Services & Materials Management, and his ‘Innovation Team’ to discuss tomorrow. One hallmark of my experience at Bronson is that every communication is a two-way dialogue. Although many of my profiles take the form of an interview, where I learn about the person or group I am meeting with, the Bronson group was as interested in what I am learning in my travels as they were about outlining their own ideas about tomorrow.

Mike opened the discussion by establishing the broad parameters of the discussion. “Bronson’s vision, to be a national leader in healthcare quality, is based on our 4C’s: (clinical distinction, customer experience, corporate vitality, community health). Recently I have been thinking we need to articulate a fifth C, though I don’t know what that word would be, that promotes healthy living and sustainability. We need to move from the realm of diagnosis and treatment into the realm of healthy living. When we look at the big issues facing us, things like chronic disease and obesity, we realize that we have to be more proactive on health. I see the crux of this as mobility – getting people to move more and getting them to move in vehicles less.”

imgres-2Steve picked up the thread. “Cars give us a sense of freedom, and owning them as private property give us a sense of security. How do we make sustainability not a burden, but the preferred way that we want to live?”

I told the group about David Owens book, The Green Metropolis, which argues that Manhattan is the most sustainable place in the United States. Not only is per capita energy use there 13% less than average, it happens because of the way life is organized, without cars, rather than by any conscious effort to be sustainable. He argues, ‘once you get in your car, you’re not sustainable.’

The conversation turned local, to the specific issues that Kalamazoo, like so many small cities, faces to both thrive and be sustainable. Mike is part of a City Commission that the mayor formed to address revenue shortfall without cutting services. The focus, naturally, goes to revenue enhancement. But Mike wants the focus to be on revenue growth. He sees pent-up demand for housing, commercial activity, and services in an around downtown, near Bronson’s main campus. Kalamazoo has a sizable ring of underdeveloped land immediately outside the downtown area, but it is easier for developers to go to outlying areas than it is to redevelop in the middle of town. “We need to make zoning, density, and regulatory changes that encourage development in the city.”

images

There are some practical impediments that are difficult to surmount. Michigan restricts property tax increases to no more than 5% a year. After the huge property value drops that occurred during the 2008 recession, many properties were reassessed. Values are climbing back up, but the city cannot recoup that in revised assessments. Also, in the 1960’s the city used Federal monies to expand water service to adjacent communities. This fueled their expansion at the expense of Kalamazoo, but now, because of federal requirements, Kalamazoo is required to continue to supply water to these communities that are undermining the economic and cultural center.

imgres“Kalamazoo city has 78,000 people. Bronson employs almost 5,000 people in its main campus, close to 10,000 people work downtown. Yet, there is hardly any place to live within walking distance of downtown. Now we have a medical school adjacent to our campus, affiliated with Southwest Michigan University, and we are developing the Healthy Living Campus, a $46 million, three building nutrition and food complex affiliated with Kalamazoo Valley Community College. The culinary curriculum is already filled to capacity. We are creating all these opportunities to learn and work in town, but there’s no place to live.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“We are not in the hospital business. We’re moving way beyond that. I want to develop a strategy for for healthy living and community wellness.”

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Trip Log – Day 61 –Hemingford, NE to Scottsbluff, NE

Hemingford NE to Scottsbluff NEJuly 5, 2015 –Clear, 95 degrees then T-storms

Miles Today: 62

Miles to Date: 3,650

States to Date: 16

IMG_2740I woke early and refreshed despite a night of loud fireworks followed by even louder thunderstorms. I headed west on Nebraska Route 71 while the moon was still showing its face.

IMG_2742I passed my first large fields of wheat, which are quite beautiful in the shimmering morning light.

 

IMG_2746I kept up a good pace until the road turned south. Fortunately, the wind shifted to a more favorable direction, but unfortunately the “Road Work Next 10 Miles’ sign spelled trouble. I’ve traveled some road construction areas that were newly paved, just not striped. But today I hit ten miles of fresh milled surface. For over an hour, every part of my Surly and me jiggled and jangled. When I finally hit smooth pavement I stopped to check bolts. My bike was sturdy as ever, though it took a while for my head screws to settle.

IMG_2748The rest of the ride into Scottsbluff was easy – the final ten miles a gentle down slope. I got into town to attend at last part of the Sunday service of The Abbey, and then had a long conversation about tomorrow with Father A.J. Severns.

 

 

 

IMG_2753By three the sky was growing dark, so I headed to a China Buffet to sit out the storm. The fiercest storm of my entire journey proved benign in my dry booth surrounded by egg rolls, fried rice, mushrooms with oyster sauce, pork with onions, and, of course, sponge cake rolls with vanilla ice cream. By six, the storm wasn’t quite over, but I let the wind push me eight blocks to my motel and checked in before the predicted hail fell. So far, I have been lucky in ducking nature’s wrath.

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Profile Response – David Bere, Kalamazoo, MI

HWWLT Logo on yellowDavid Bere is a 20-year-old student from Kalamazoo, a junior at Western Michigan University in Kalamazoo, attending college under the Kalamazoo Promise, a scholarship program available to any student who graduates from the Kalamazoo public schools. He is exactly the person for whom the program is aimed. David’s family has been in Kalamazoo for four generations: his mom was a housekeeper at Bronson Hospital and later the State Mental institution; his father worked in the Bronson mechanical plant; his sister works on the production line at Pzifer. David is the first of his family to attend college.

IMG_2165 IMG_2163 IMG_2162

David weighed as much as 360 pounds before deciding to get his weight in line, began walking everywhere, lost 180 pounds, and discovered cycling. He cycled 6,000 miles through the U.S. and Canada in the summer of 2014. Since returning to school, David works at the WMU Center for Sustainability, volunteers for a number of green groups on campus, won an award for his leadership, and was featured in the Kalamazoo Public School newsletter as an exemplar of what the Kalamazoo Promise offers.

The WMU Center for Sustainability is supported by an $8 per student fee that students voted to tack onto their fees. The Center includes a green jobs fund that provides employment for 40 students and operates Gibbs House, an off-campus cooperative residence where six to eight students focus on conscious living and developing sustainability projects in hydroponics, permaculture and other topics. David runs the ‘fix-it’ room where students do wood projects and bike repairs as well as the Bike Stable that collects, repairs, and distributes bikes.

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_2160“There will be a heck of a lot more biking. Everything we do here is geared toward changing how we will live, and how we will travel. Tomorrow I will be traveling and pursuing my passions without impacting the planet. It’s not a one-sum game. What is good for us is also good for the planet.”

 

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