Profile Response – Cathy and Don Mayles, Norwalk OH

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowCathy and Don Mayles are my housemate Paul’s sister-in-law Jean’s cousins. Hardly close relations, yet both Paul and Jean encouraged me to contact Cathy and Don, who welcomed me like family for a Saturday night in Norwalk, OH. Don grew up on the same street where they live; Cathy is from a nearby town. They met almost twenty years ago at a car show, clicked immediately, and have been married seventeen years. Life has handed them a fair share of challenges, yet they convey a quiet solidarity that together, they can surmount whatever comes their way.

IMG_2085Their car connection runs deep. Cathy and Don live in a modest house, but have a garage much larger than their home, which accommodates Don’s vintage ’72 Chevelle, restored ’71 pick-up, Honda S-2000, and a recent model sedan, in addition to a wide array of restoration tools, a few lazy-boy recliners, large screen TV and well-stocked beer fridge.

Cathy’s worked forty years for the hospital in Sandusky, which, given the changes in healthcare over that time, means she’s survived mergers and technological change. Don’s the foreman of the vehicle maintenance crew at Cedar Point Amusement Park in Sandusky. His first job, as a summer dishwasher, was at Cedar Point over thirty years ago. In between, Don’s had a variety of jobs from mechanic to truck driver, but he’s happy to be back at Cedar Point. “It’s a good business despite the economy. People always go to amusement parks, and they’re great at thinking up ways to make more money.” Don explained how a few years ago they instituted fast lanes. For an extra fee, people could go through a quicker line. “They made over $1 million the first year with that, and it didn’t cost a thing to move a few line markers.”

IMG_2083Don’s particular skill seems to be beating up his body and surviving. A bus ran over his arm, he broke his back in five places, lost a finger, shrapnel wedged through a vein into an artery, and his bicep tendon detached. “That was the most painful thing ever. They taped my upper arm to my chest and my shoulder joint froze.” Even more painful than the immunotherapy Don underwent for bladder cancer. He’s five years out from that diagnosis, and confident he’ll hit the seven-year mark of being cancer-free that signifies total remission. “I managed to beat myself up pretty good, but I’m still here. I’ve got a whole list of what can wrong, and how painful each injury is.”

IMG_2084Cathy and Don’s work ethic and integrity are apparent in every aspect of their lives. Regarding politics, Don says, “I like our governor, Kasich. He’s a businessman and runs Ohio like a business. He makes sure that everything stays under control. What happened in Ferguson and Baltimore, it could have happened in Cleveland (referring to Officer Michael Brelo’s acquittal), but it didn’t.

I ask Cathy and Don, “How will we live tomorrow?” They answer in unison: “Better.” Cathy goes on, “You live for today, because you never know what will happen.” Don adds, “I’ve learned to be patient. We can survive so much more than we think we can.”

On Sunday morning, grey and rainy, we linger over breakfast in their cozy kitchen. When the rain slows I put on my gear and head out. As I wave goodbye, Don calls from the driveway, “I’ll live better tomorrow having met you today.” That’s a pretty good line.

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 49 – Carrington, ND to McClusky, ND

Cooperstown ND to McClusky NDJune 23, 2015 – Blue skies, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 67

Miles to Date: 2,974

States to Date: 14

North Dakota is a big land but a small world. I met the same woman in two cafes a day apart. Then yesterday, while taking a break at a country church, I watched big trucks haul hay to a nearby clearing, where a huge funnel machine accepted the load and forced it into giant white plastic tubes, over one hundred feet long, that were clipped into protected bales. This morning, at motel breakfast, a guy approaches me, “Are you the guy on the bike at the church yesterday?” Lyle Orth and his two hands, from South Africa, had seen me while hauling hay. Lyle owns the baling equipment and contracts from farm to farm. Farmers get three or four hay crops a year, which they cut in the field. Lyle and his crew do the rest.

IMG_2539IMG_2540IMG_2541IMG_2542

I was on the road by 7:30. Sixty-five miles straight down North Dakota Route 200 to McClusky sounds so easy, but wind foils that notion. Still, I didn’t suffer any of yesterday’s frustration. I had all day and gave it over to pedaling slow and steady. Google told me there were towns with services at 14 and 28 miles out, though I was prepared to go the distance. One of the odd things about North Dakota geography is that highways don’t go through towns; they go near them. A highway in Ohio or Wisconsin almost always turns into Main Street. A North Dakota town might edge on a highway, or even be a mile off. I bypassed the 14 miles town; too soon to need a break, and did the same at 28 miles when Bowdon was a mile off Route 200. When I’m working this hard, I need a good reason to lengthen my route.

The other geographic challenge is that the scale of North Dakota is huge. A water tower in Minnesota signals a town three miles away. That town might be five, even seven miles off in North Dakota. Landscape features hang in front of me for a long time. By mile 40 I was seeking shade, just to sit down, eat a bar, and have water. I saw a shape on the horizon that looked like a church. As I pedaled near I realized it was just a configuration of trees around a town too small to even have a water tower. But better than a church or a water tower, Hurdston has Dairy King, where I had a burger basket, Diet Coke, ice cream cone, and a cool break.

IMG_2543 IMG_2545

I resumed before three and got to McClusky by six. The land got more varied, more Western, with many shallow lakes (marshes?) along the road, full of fowl. The motel is out of town, so I stopped by the three-aisle grocery and got cereal and milk. I always crave crunchy on the road, and this will do for dinner and breakfast.

 

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Profile Response – Mike Sartor, Subway Manager, Wellington, OH

HWWLT Logo on yellowPeople often ask me, “What’s your favorite response to my question?” To date, I recall this man, who shared a response from deep in his heart.

I spent a few hours at the Subway in Wellington, OH, enjoying a Meal Deal lunch and using their wireless while waiting out two thunderstorms and repairing a flat tire. I spoke to a number of the staff, which seemed glad to have a connection with someone beyond a few moments. When my bike was repaired and the weather cleared I prepared to leave. Mike Sartor came out of the back with a bag of cookies for me. “They’re broken so we can’t sell them. Better you eat them than me.” We got to talk and I asked him my question.

How will we live tomorrow?

“Live life to the fullest.” Mike replied with an immediacy that indicated he had given it some thought.

He returned to the back and I finished packing up. As I stacked my tray he reappeared. “I want to give you some background to my answer.” I stood to listen. “My son died five years ago; he was 25. He had cancer, and when he was diagnosed his motto became “Live life to the fullest.” And he did. He moved to Chicago, went to cooking school and even ran a marathon. He fought his cancer for three and half years. Ever since he died, I’ve adopted his motto as my own.”

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 48 –Cooperstown, ND to Carrington, ND

Cooperstown ND to Carrington NDJune 22, 2015 – Puffy clouds, 75 degrees

Miles Today: 55

Miles to Date: 2,907

States to Date: 14

There were three men sitting at separate tables when I entered the Coachman Cafe for breakfast on a grey post-storm morning. So I took a place at another table. I got a cup of coffee, ordered eggs, toast, and hash browns; then topped that off with more coffee, biscuits and gravy. While I ate, the room dynamic shifted, and seven men sat in the center table, talking, playing dice, cajoling one particularly jovial, simple guy. During the hour I enjoyed breakfast, more than a dozen men came and went and passed the time of day. The only woman in the Coachman Cafe was the waitress, who circulated with her coffee pot every few minutes. It’s more difficult for me to engage in conversation with men than women, especially established groups, especially so early in the morning. So instead of asking my question I just eavesdropped on the conversation: weather, corn, hail, pick-ups, rain, driving to Fargo, washouts, fertilizer, weather. By nine, all the men were gone and everything changed at the Coachman Cafe. The place was full of women. I even met one lady from lunch the previous day in Page.

IMG_2500I rolled north a few miles to visit the Ronald Reagan Minuteman Missile Site. Director Guinn Hinson gave me a two-hour tour of a sober but fascinating place.

Heading back into town I began to worry about tomorrow – not a good thing for a guy with my question. I was supposed to take a rest day, and then pedal 113 miles to my next motel. Instead, I found a place 48 miles away, checked out early, had a hearty lunch of beef sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy, and rolled out of town by 2:00 p.m.

IMG_2525Those 48 miles were the hardest, but perhaps most rewarding, of my trip. The day was fine, the air sweet, the road smooth, the drivers polite, the grass giant waves in a billowing green sea. But the wind hammered me. Ten miles an hour was tough, even though the terrain was flat. I struggled for miles. And then, I stopped the struggle. Cycling in North Dakota is a Zen thing. Give up expectations; give up the idea that flat is easy; give up the idea that I’ll cover ten miles an hour. Downshift and just pedal. That’s all. Breathe, hum, or even sing, but don’t keep checking the odometer.

IMG_2524I stretched at a railroad crossing – there are few places to prop my bike here. Around mile 36 I needed a real break, but there are no side roads, no shade, nothing but a single strip of asphalt and the immense wind whistling past my ears. It’s easy to see why so many pioneers went crazy out here – the wind is relentless. The earth is silent, but the wind is deafening. I couldn’t hear vehicles coming from behind. Fortunately, they all gave me wide berth. I was so tired I considered stopping at whatever house appeared, just to get off my bike, eat a power bar and do a forward bend. Then, a little church appeared, abandoned but quaint as any in a model train village under a Christmas tree. The first church I’ve seen in North Dakota, a solitary silhouette against the giant sky.

IMG_2526I rolled my bike up the church lawn, leaned Surly against its steps, and stretched out on the porch. I surveyed the world from my perch and wondered what the heck I was doing here, at six o’clock in the evening, absolutely nowhere. Then I realized why we do this, why humans push our endurance and test our fortitude. We take our measure against nature, to understand how we stack up against the great forces. But also to appreciate the majesty of creation; to discover nuance in a place a broad as North Dakota: hearing the shimmering grass, triggering the bird flocks that rise up as I pass, feeling the temperature dip when a cumulus cloud casts me in shade. From the stoop of this postcard church on the High Plains, the earth is formidable, but I’m invigorated by its energy.

IMG_2523I didn’t go any faster the last 18 miles, but they passed with great enjoyment. I sang and wove and laughed at the wind. It was eight o’clock by the time I got to Carrington; I averaged just eight miles an hour. Carrington offered a nice motel and a pleasant view for two more hours of sunlight, but it’s not such an outstanding destination. Today was all about the journey.

 

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Profile Response Kim Conrad, Akron, Ohio

HWWLT Logo on yellowAt age 32, Kim Conrad has a more varied resume that many twice her age. I met Kim in Haiti, where she was a long-term volunteer at Mission of Hope and made a worthy contribution to our school construction there. She’s also been a pilot and aviation mechanic. Currently, Kim is a virtual assistant for the online company Zirtual. She’s been living in Akron for more than a year, one of the many places she considers home ever since her stint on staff in college ministry at University of Akron.

Kim and I met at Angel Falls Coffee Company, two days before Kim plans to move to Ouray, Colorado. “I’ve lived with 28 different people since college, and decided it was time for some solitude.”   Ouray is a small town of about a thousand people in southwest Colorado. Kim’s father retired there last year; Kim plans to live in the cabin her great grandmother built about 120326 Kim Hammerstwo miles outside of town. “I’ll get a waitress job in town to satisfy my extrovert side.” Like many moves in Kim’s life, this won’t be permanent. “The cabin isn’t winterized. If I like the area, I’ll move into town in the winter.” Kim doesn’t even bother to articulate a Plan B. She’s young, energetic, capable, and untethered to conventional notions of career or success. When life in Ouray plays out, another good option will reveal itself.

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’m trying to figure out myself. How am I going to choose to life? What will I deem important? Akron is good – I have community here and people I care about. But I’ve become stagnant here. My work at Zirtual is fine, but I can do it anywhere, and is it really helping anybody? I love aviation and working overseas. I’d like to find a good way to do that again. Right now I want to take my life to a new context. I don’t know what that is, but I do know it will involve people and purpose.”

 

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 47 –Fargo, ND to Cooperstown, ND

Fargo ND to Cooperstown NDJune 22, 2015 – sun, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 93

Miles to Date: 2,852

States to Date: 14

I woke refreshed, had a big Super 8 breakfast, and headed out on a beautiful calm morning. My route out of Fargo turned into gravel roads, so I reverted back into town and had my first experience riding my bike along the Interstate – four miles along I-29 until I hit old 81. It’s safe and easy, but I was happy to get on a local road. The wind was light, the Sunday traffic even lighter.

I turned west at Gardner for my thirty-mile stint to lunch. Every mile the wind picked up, and soon I was working hard just to maintain 8 or 9 miles per hour. With the wind in my face, North Dakota feels like Pennsylvania – without any downhill coasting. But when I picked my head out of my troubles, the landscape was huge. I’m always frustrated by the magnificence of my surroundings and how puny it appears in my 5S viewfinder. So I took a series; perhaps they will give a better perspective. Otherwise, the only way to experience the vastness is to cycle out here.

IMG_2487IMG_2488IMG_2489IMG_2490

By the time I arrived in Page, the wind was fierce and I was bushed. I knew Page had a grocery and a cafe, but I didn’t know whether either would be open on Sunday. Worst case, the town would have a shade tree where I could sit and eat food from my pannier. Lucky me, the cafe was open, so I settled into a long break. I arrived at the end of the after-church rush, talked with folks, and then ordered the Sunday buffet – a collection of salads long on mayonnaise and pasta, with enough veggies, tuna, and chicken to make them both filling and healthy.

IMG_2482Within thirty minutes I was the only customer, but the place was open all afternoon, so I stayed over two hours. When I paid, the waitress explained that the Cafe is community-owned. “No one could make a living running this place, but the town wants a cafe.” That probably explains why I saw waitresses sitting with customers and people wandering in and out of the kitchen.

IMG_2483As I rode out of town I noticed that half of the main street storefronts were now community enterprises – a senior center, an auditorium. What Page lacks in commercial enterprise it replaces with community services.

The wind died down as the mercury rose. It was 94 degrees when I reached Hope around 5 p.m. I spotted a gas station off the highway and hoped for a cold drink, only to find everything shuttered and one vending machine humming in the shade. Seventy-five cents for a can of soda. I had a single quarter – a mangled thing I picked off the pavement when I locked my bike in Becker MN – and a five-dollar bill. I was debating whether a cold soda was worth five bucks, when I noticed two quarters sitting in the change tray. So, I got a Coke Zero thanks to a two guys too busy to collect their change and a quarter picked off the ground: the benefit of being a slow moving, observant, touring cyclist.

IMG_2486I sat on the concrete in the shade of the gas station, enjoyed my drink and appreciated Hope’s happy water tower.

Back on the road, I ground out the last 25 miles. The risk of taking a long lunch break is that the afternoon thunderclouds will catch me in a storm. Fortunately, I ducked them all and arrived at Cooperstown around 7:30 p.m., tired but content. The motel office isn’t open on Sundays, but the staff left my key in the door. Despite being the center of our Cold War nuclear missiles, security’s not too tight here. My housemate Paul wanted to know that kind of room $46 a night buys in North Dakota: clean but not fancy.

IMG_2497 IMG_2498

I took a short walk around town, cycling always leaves me needing to stretch my legs, and had a long Father’s day chat with Andy. My daughter is in Cambodia, my son on the Hamptons, and I’m in North Dakota: a pretty diverse family. When the sun finally set, the thunder exploded and the sky poured rain, I was safe and asleep.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Profile Response – Garrett Graton of Ossipee, NH

HWWLT Logo on yellowGarrett Graton is a fourth generation timber frame restorer. I met him on the site of a covered bridge restoration in Ossipee, NH.

How will we live tomorrow?

 

“I want to hold off on answering that until I see how this marital law stuff works out. You know, the federal government is sending armed militia into states. Many think it’s the precursor to marital law. The governor of Texas sent a letter to Obama telling him that his actions are being watched. Check out Jade Helm online to see what is happening.”

After answering the question, Garrett turned to showing me the details of covered bridge reconstruction. 3G Construction has been restoring covered bridges for three generations. We try to keep as much of the sound lumber as we can and dovetail new to it.

IMG_1809IMG_1806IMG_1808

I asked Garrett how often a bridge was restored.

My grandfather restored this bridge back in the 1980’s. The bridges are owned by the state or towns, but at that time my grandfather helped establish 80/20 federal / local funding mechanism. This restoration is being done under that arrangement, but it is about to end. The federal government isn’t going to contribute 80%. Communities will be holding church suppers to restore their bridges.

Posted in Responses | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 46 –Fergus Falls, MN to Fargo, ND

Fergus falls MN to Fargo NDJune 20, 2015 – rain, fog, clouds, sun. 55 degrees to 80 degrees

Miles Today: 63

Miles to Date: 2,759

States to Date: 14

IMG_2458The problem with pedaling 115 miles one day is that it wipes me out for the next. When I opened my eyes, after seven, everything ached. I got myself upright and stretched, but I was moving slow. My host, Jen, had a 4 a.m. bakery shift, but Jen’s so sweet that while I slept she’d bought my bike indoors to stay dry through last night’s thunderstorms, and left me a generous breakfast. There seems no bottom to the kindness of warmshowers hosts. I enjoyed my breakfast, oiled my chain, loosened my bones, and stopped by Jen’s workplace to thank her and say goodbye. It was nine when I cycled out of town, a very late start.

I was sluggish for the first five; make that ten, no make that twenty miles. Intermittent rain, rolling hills, and a hefty headwind compounded my fatigue. I took a Diet Coke break; the caffeine put me in gear. Complete fog replaced the rain. There was no traffic on old highway 52; I was the only moving thing, though the wind made sure I didn’t move fast.

IMG_2465 IMG_2463

After another energy bar and diet coke break, my highway was barricaded and the detour sign arrowed me backwards. I hate going backwards. I peered down the closed road; it appeared paved but not striped. I decided to gamble that it was passable and I wouldn’t be caught on a somnolent Saturday. My hunch was rewarded with six miles of the smoothest pavement and nary an oncoming vehicle. The wind still taunted me, but the land turned flat and I was doing okay. By three, the sun was shining. I rolled into Moorhead and stopped at Walgreen’s for provisions. By four I entered the King China Buffet in downtown Fargo for a long overdue lunch / early dinner.

North Dakota. Months ago, when some asked me what I was most looking forward to on my trip, I replied, “North Dakota.” I’ve never been here, but I love tall grasses and broad horizons and feeling like no one on the face of the earth knows where I am. All attributes I bestow upon this rugged state. Yet as I arrive, I’m filled with apprehension, which contributes to the hard cycling I’ve had the last two days. My mind is distracted. Tomorrow, when I pass beyond Fargo city limits, so much about my trip will change. It’s exciting, but also scary.

IMG_2472North Dakota requires a level of strategy places East don’t demand. I have no warmshowers hosts in North Dakota. For seven nights, at least, I’ll stay in motels, all booked in advance, many spaced at challenging distances from each other with few if any services between. My preferred rhythm of riding 50 to 60 miles and then meeting with people in the afternoon is impossible here. I will have 90 to 100 mile days, followed by rest days. If the weather is kind and winds are good, I’ll be able to handle the distances. But they are both notoriously fickle here.

I’ve already modified my route. For years, bicyclists traversed U.S.2, and I planned to follow that road to Minot and Williston, the heart of the oil and gas boom. However, the boom related truck traffic on U.S.2 is so strong cyclists have been advised to stay away, so I pulled my route south accordingly. North Dakota actually allows bicycles in Interstate 94, which may not be pleasant but at least the road has wide shoulders.

I’m also traveling heavier. Instead of two water bottles, I’ll carry five, plus more food than usual. When I tackle my 90 miles to Cooperstown tomorrow I’ll tote enough to go the distance. One advantage – I’ll have plenty of daylight. I’m going to my northernmost destination on the longest day of the year.

All this worry washed away with plate upon pate of fresh vegetables, egg rolls, chicken in sticky sauces, puff pastries, almond cookies, vanilla pudding and ice cream. Chinese buffets lose money when I walk in the door. I left around six, wandered Fargo’s funky downtown, got some bike accessories at Great Northern Bike Shop, located in the former railroad terminal, and then pedaled over to the Fargo Red Hawks Minor League baseball game. It was a perfect night for baseball, and the Red Hawks have a good following.

IMG_2474 IMG_2475 IMG_2476

Everyone I talked to in Fargo, except the two old-time loiterers on the park bench in front of China King, is bullish on Fargo. Unemployment under 3%, 11,000 vacant jobs ready to be snatched, $600 signing bonus advertised to work in a restaurant, and a population projected to grow by more than 50% in ten years over the next ten years. The passenger train station may have been turned into a bike shop, but the long oil-car trains that rumble through town on a Saturday afternoon whistle that in North Dakota, they’re pumping money.

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , , | 14 Comments

Responses to “How will we live tomorrow?”

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully better than today.”

Shaindy Glatt, Orthodox Jew, mother of four & proprietor of Glatt Supermarket, Postville, IA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I hope we will live in harmony rather than always seeking control. Man has a need to play god. When I am gardening I am hurting no one. I am on my knees, in a position to meditate. It makes me a better man. Be humble. Be small. Live simply. When I was complaining about life it took a man older and wiser to say, ‘Go help someone.’ It took me 56 years, but I’ve learned to be content.”

Larry Walters, motel clerk and gardener, Rochester, MN

How will we live tomorrow?

“In thankfulness.”

Herb Guenthier, IT business man and parrot pedaler, New Berlin, WI

How will we live tomorrow?

“I will live for my grandchildren and my children and to please people. That’s why I love it here, to please people.”

Mary, McDonald’s employee, Becker, MN

How will we live tomorrow?

“Hopefully better than today.”

Katie, visitor to American Swedish Institute, Minneapolis, MN

As we discussed my trip, a ladybug landed on Katie’s hand. “Oh, that is good luck. Ladybugs are my favorite creatures. They bring me good messages from the universe.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“I am going to worry about that tomorrow because the universe is telling me I need to live in the moment. To understand and respect my past, but not dwell there. To plan for but not worry about the future. To have gratitude for and awareness of the present.”

Joseph Catore, Healthcare provider, Medford, MA

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’ll be doing this again tomorrow.”

Ryan, construction worker, BSNF Railroad, Becker, MN

How will we live tomorrow?

“We are going to relinquish more and more responsibility to the government. As the climate changes, as we run out of water in places. And I think young people will be fine with that, as long as you don’t mess with the Internet.”

John Egbers, endurance athlete, St. Cloud, MN

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’d just as soon live today like there’s no tomorrow.”

Nancy, Tesore Convenience Store Clerk, Albany, MN

Nancy has lived in Albany her whole life. “I know everyone in the this town and like it that way.”

How will we live tomorrow?

“My two sons are going to take over the restaurant for the next generation, maybe two.”

John Sieve, owner of Traveler’s Inn Restaurant, Alexandria, MN

Traveler’s Inn has been in the same family since it opened in 1924. John started working there in 1972, when he returned from serving in Vietnam.

How will we live tomorrow?

“Peaceful.”

Rachel, fiancé of John Sieve’s son. Rachel works at Traveler’s Inn and recently opened a cold-pressed juice business, “Nice Juicery”, named for ‘Minnesota nice’.

How will we live tomorrow? 

“By raising our children to be good citizens today.”

Ross Bertilson, D.C., Chiropractor, Fridley, MN

How will we live tomorrow?

“To the fullest.”

John, Service Food Market Checkout for 29 years, Fergus Falls, MN

How will we live tomorrow?

“We can’t know; it just happens.”

Jamie, Beauty Advisor at Walgreen’s, Moorhead, MN

 

 

 

Posted in Responses | Leave a comment

Trip Log – Day 45 – St. Cloud, MN to Fergus Falls, MN

ST CLoud MN to Fergus Falls MNJune 19, 2015 – Blue skies, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 115

Miles to Date: 2,696

States to Date: 13

Cycling conditions were perfect today. After seven early morning miles out of St. Cloud, I was on the Lake Wobegon and Central Lakes bike trails for over one hundred miles – all paved, all car-free, all with the wind nudging me north and west from behind my left hip. Still, even under the best conditions, 115 miles is a very long day in the saddle.

IMG_2440 IMG_2446 IMG_2441

Minnesota has an impressive system of paved rail trails. Another cyclist told me state law mandates that after a set period of time after a railroad right-of-way is abandoned, the land reverts to private property owners on either side. In order to avoid this, a state bicycle trust takes over many right-of-ways to keep them in the public domain. This may have another positive upside, as rail traffic is increasing and it’s possible they may be needed for rail service again someday. Once lost, it would be very difficult to reassemble these right-of-ways. Outside of St. Cloud I actually saw a construction crew installing a third set of tracks on the main line that runs from Minneapolis to St. Cloud. Proof that everything comes around again.

IMG_2443 IMG_2454

Since my cycling was long today, I took several well-spaced breaks. On A Prairie Home Companion Garrison Keillor riffs on Minnesota Lutherans, but in fact the Lake Wobegon Trail ties together Minnesota’s Catholic belt. I stopped at the solid, and thriving, churches in Albany, Freeport, and Melrose. The trail parallels I-94 for about fifty miles, but at enough distance the highway is just a steady din. Alexandria is the largest town in these parts, the hub of the Central Lakes region. It’s a lovely town, and I ate lunch in a local restaurant that’s been in the same family over ninety years.

IMG_2445 IMG_2444 IMG_2448

The wind picked up by mid-afternoon. The grass along the sides of the trail billowed and shimmered like waves on vast verdant sea. I passed a cool house made from a grain elevator. Around mile 90 I needed a beak but there was no place to stop. Fortunately good size trees grow along the path, and I found a shady spot, stretched out flat, and enjoyed a Cliff bar and bottle of water.

IMG_2451 IMG_2456 IMG_2457

Despite ideal conditions, the rest of the ride was a chore. Around mile 108 I hit the wall. I dismounted and walked my bike for half a mile. Just allowing my legs a different cadence helped. I arrived at my warmshowers host’s house just after six: eleven hours of cycling time. After a shower and fresh clothes, Jen, who works in an artisanal bakery, her boyfriend David, and I had fresh bread and hard cheese. Then we walked through the charming town of Fergus Falls to a pizza/microbrewery joint. The minute we walked in I hit my second wall of the day. I needed sleep. I excused myself and missed out on really great local food, but was happy to be horizontal in bed before ten.

 

Posted in Bicycle Trip Log | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments