Trip Log – Day 89 – Pocatello, ID to Idaho Falls, ID

Pocatello to Idaho FallsAugust 2, 2015 – Sunny, 100 degrees

Miles Today: 60

Miles to Date: 4,993

States to Date: 20

Sunday in the summertime and the living is easy. I got up to the smell of good coffee and enjoyed a breakfast of homemade oatmeal with all sorts of mix-ins on the patio with my warmshowers hosts. I reluctantly took leave after eight, knowing that I wanted to ride in the cool morning rather than the hot afternoon.

IMG_3262Pocatello is a railroad town; the bridges over the tracks are more spectacular than the roads that span the concrete-lined Portneuf River. I wove north and east to Hiline Road, a great route out of town through big pastures. Hiline connected back to US 91 at Fort Hall, the Shoshone-Bannock Indian Reservation where preparations were underway for their annual festival next week. The road is poker straight past the Indian casino into Blackfoot, one of the poorest towns I have traversed.

Beyond Blackfoot the Snake River Valley is a wide flat plain crisscrossed by an elaborate canal system. Monster irrigation systems snake across green fields, tall rows of trees shelter houses from the wind. Where the sprinklers came near the road, an underdraft of cool air broke the mounting heat. By ten it was near eighty degrees, by eleven it was over ninety. A few feet beyond the sprinklers reach the grass is tawny and dry. The heavy rains of Colorado are long past; the fire monitor gauges all read ‘Danger Very High’, and it’s easy to see how one match would enflame these brittle fields.

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I stopped in Firth for a liquid lunch: two yogurts and a Little Debbie cake chased down with a quart of chocolate milk; the perfect protein-infused refresher to push me into Idaho Falls before 2:00 p.m. After a writing break I visited the falls, which as more elaborate than I anticipated. The Snake River is a broad stretch of water, until it tumbles over rocks for several blocks near downtown. My host for this evening Sam, is more a couch surfer than a warmshowers guy. He gave me great tips to connect with folks that way on the road. He headed out to his favorite burger joint, but much is closed in Mormon-centric Idaho Falls on a Sunday night. So we wound up at a roadside diner. The food was adequate; the coconut cream pie dessert was extraordinary.

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Profile Response: Rob Timm, Executive Director, Chiesman Center for Democracy, Rapid City, SD

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowI contacted Rob Timm because I was intrigued by something called the Chiesman Center for Democracy. Allene Chiesman, a South Dakota philanthropist, founded and endowed the non-partisan non-profit in the 1960’s in order to help people be more informed and therefore, more involved. Rob and I met in his office across the street from the County Courthouse to discuss the organization and how if can impact tomorrow.

“Forty percent of the elections in South Dakota never occur: there are no competitors. Last year in Sioux Falls, voter turnout for the School Board election was 3.7%. The Knight Foundation recently issued a report, ‘Why Millenniums Don’t Vote for Mayor.’ People vote for President, but they don’t vote for mayor. Why is that? For most people, local elections don’t feel relevant. Yet in fact, they are more relevant, from a tax perspective, than state and national elections. Local governments cover roads, police, and schools: big budget items. Yet our tendency is to focus on state and national elections, where each voter’s influence is actually diminished.

images“South Dakota is a no income tax state. We have relatively high property taxes and sales taxes. Income tax is a huge swear word. Now, I am not advocating for an income tax; I want to live another day. But right now school funding is a problem. I live in Hill City, where property values are high and school funding is adequate. The State provides aid to districts that do not raise a minimum funding level of $5,000 per pupil, and small districts can get an additional 20% premium. Open enrollment is available to every student, yet optional by district. This creates discrepancies between mandated levels of support and income streams. Just a few days ago the Kansas Supreme Court found their school funding allocation unconstitutional. We haven’t had that case here in South Dakota – yet.

“Our role is to make information about our electoral process available and easy to understand. How does a person run for office? The logistics of that is buried in forms. We want to get cities to put that information on their websites, up front. We advocate for a better, simpler process. We envision a partnership between media and other entities to make the process more open.

imgres“Sometimes our electoral intentions do not work as planned. In South Dakota we have term limits on all statewide elected offices. But you can alternate between offices. The result is that we have more new faces, which was intended. The unintended consequence is that term limits enhance the power of the governor. Just when an elected official is building steam, he or she is termed out. And term limits do not address the reality that most elected officials are retired or economically stable, so they don’t represent the breath of interests in the state.

images-1“In South Dakota we have a supermajority of Republicans in both houses. We miss the healthy give and take that comes when two parties are better matched. The third parties are gaining more traction, as people want more choices than they see from the two major parties.

“In small communities people are hesitant to run against their neighbors. They may not know where they stand on issues, but they are inclined to accept people from their community. In Rapid City we have the opposite problem. This area is growing fast. Everyone is from somewhere else. How do we build a sense of community? We are working here on a Character Community program – six pillars of character that can help build consensus and community.”

How will we live tomorrow?

IMG_2656“We have to live for today. If we can make today as good as possible, we’ll have the best possible tomorrow. From a Biblical perspective, we know today is here; we cannot know about tomorrow. We have to plan, sustain, and manage growth or you’ll find yourself in a world of hurt.”

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Trip Log – Day 88 – Preston, ID to Pocatello, ID

Preston to PocatelloAugust 1, 2015 – Sunny, 95 degrees

Miles Today: 70

Miles to Date: 4,933

States to Date: 20

 IMG_3248Vickie Nelson and her friends at the Rocky Mountain Red Brick Inn got my day off to a good start – bacon and eggs, biscuits and gravy, fresh fruit, yogurt and delicious coffee. The difference between a B&B and a Super 8 is all about quality and presentation. Vicky placed her fresh cooked food in beautiful bowls. Since I was eating before the usual 8 a.m. time she let me sit in the kitchen where they were preparing things for the other guests. I liked it much better than sitting in the dining room.

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I was on the road by eight, pedaling north on a cool morning that wouldn’t stay that way for long. Idaho is big on historical markers and I enjoyed learning about how the area’s history; the Mormon settlers, the fur trappers, the Bear Creek Massacre where several hundred Shoshoni Indians were slaughtered, and the railroad expansion. The most fascinating area was Red Rock Pass – the easiest pass I have traversed to date. The gentle ridge defined the limit of the ancient Bonneville Sea, which used to cover the entire area to the south and has now shrunk to the Great Salt Lake.

I passed several small towns with elaborately carved metal welcome signs. By noon I was ready for a break and stopped at the Little Rock Cafe in McCammon for a terrific burger and fries topped of with a noteworthy cinnamon roll. While I was eating, a throng of Mormon’s arrived: nineteen extended family members celebrating their eight-year-old son’s confirmation. I chatted with the parents while our seasoned waitress handled the rush with aplomb.

IMG_3253My nemesis the wind reared its head for the last twenty miles into Pocatello, but I landed in town before four and took a writing break before meeting my warmshowers host for the evening. My official host was Caitlyn, a college student just back from a three-week cycling trip to the Northwest. But Caitlyn directed me to her parent’s house, my de facto hosts. We had a terrific homemade pizza and beer on the patio. After Caitlyn and some friends went out for the night, Kathy, Mike, and I talked until ten. The sun never seems to set out here.

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Responses: How will we live tomorrow?

How will we live tomorrow?

“The best we can. I am homeless; I have a 90 day bed in the shelter and am looking for a place. But I can only afford $300 a month. I get up every day and try to be the best person I can be.”

Kellie, waitress at Wingers, Salt Lake City, UT

How will we live tomorrow?

“The way we (both a collective and personal we) live tomorrow will depend on the decisions we make today, and also to some extent on the decisions we made yesterday.”

Carol Long, retired property manager, Kalamazoo, MI

How will we live tomorrow?

“One day at a time.”

Gilda, resident of Palmer Court supportive housing, Salt Lake City, UT

How will we live tomorrow?

“I went to school here. I left several years ago. I’ve lived all over. You would think I’m an army brat, but I’m not. There’s always a friend or family member in need, and I go to them. Not like crashing their couch; like helping. I came back here two months ago. The town has grown so much; the oil fields. But like 75% of the kids I knew are either in prison or on drugs. There is a huge heroin problem here.

“I’m a day-to-day girl. Everyone has their theories – usually bad ones. The guy I’m dating is full of conspiracy theories. But I don’t believe in conspiracy theories. I am an optimist.”

Alaina, motel clerk, Roosevelt, UT

How will we live tomorrow?

“In lighted tents.”

Devin Dummit, Big Agnes Tent Company, Steamboat Springs, CO

How will we live tomorrow?

“Wouldn’t it be wonderful if a community would take care of the poor instead of thinking the government will do it? There will always be poor. Can’t we take care of each other?”

Julie Fallon, mother of four, grandmother of four, Bountiful, UT

How will we live tomorrow?

“Based on what I’ve been through recently, I’d say ‘hope.’ With hope we want to live for tomorrow.”

Jessica Garrett, Mother, Kaysville, UT

How will we live tomorrow?

“Better than today.”

John, Marketing Manager, Honey Stinger, Steamboat Springs, CO

How will we live tomorrow?

“I was once told that a person remembers in 3’s.
I took your word LIVE and this is what happened …
L.    Listen!  Laugh!  Love!
I.      Intuition!  Imagination!  Idealism!
V.      Vitality!  Veracity!  Vision!
E.     Education!  Exercise!  Energy!

I have a Native American Proverb to share with you…
Listen to the wind, it talks.
Listen to the silence, it speaks.
Listen to your heart, it knows.”

Toby Kaminkow, dancer, Bedford, MA

How will we live tomorrow?

“There’s always room for more.”

April, Grocery Store Liaison, Honey Stinger, Steamboat Springs, CO

How will we live tomorrow?

“No, I have nothing to say about that.”

Jeremiah, Sales Representative, Moots Bicycles, Steamboat Springs, CO

How will we live tomorrow?

“I’ve been thinking about it a lot. But when I don’t have anything witty to say, I tend to be quiet.

“I hope we can be more connected and celebrate each other. I know about ten people that I met on social media and I like those relationships. One online guy lives in Oregon and I enjoy knowing him, though we never met.

“One of my neighbors says, ‘I’ll shoot you in the face if you step on my land. I don’t understand people like that. I’m a kindergarten philosopher. I wish we could just be nice to each other.”

Steve Olpin, Videographer, Midway, UT

 

 

 

 

 

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Trip Log – Day 87 – Logan, UT to Preston, ID

Logan to Preston IDJuly 31, 2015 – Sunny, 100 degrees

Miles Today: 35

Miles to Date: 4,863

States to Date: 20

Today was an upside down day. I hung around Logan all day – exploring Logan Canyon, visiting Utah State University (where same gender domestic abuse posters populate the men;s room), taking an afternoon writing break, and visiting ANCA (Association of Nature Center Administrators) to talk about tomorrow. When I headed north out of downtown in US 91 about four, the thermometer hovered at 100 degrees. Logan is typical of so many American cities; a few landmark buildings preserved downtown with miles of strip commercial leading in and out of town. Since I hadn’t eaten since my Econolodge breakfast I decided to stop for an early dinner while the sun was still hot.

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images-2Move over Chinese Buffet, I discovered Golden Corral, the touring cyclists perfect feast. Fresh fruit, salad, rotisserie chicken, enchiladas, sautéed zucchini, mushrooms, squash, and cauliflower, chocolate covered strawberries, brownies, cookies and banana pudding. It is amazing.

images-1True, most of the clientele doesn’t look like me. There are a lot of size 42 waists who snatch the tables closest to the buffet line rather than sit near the windows. But for $10.99 (I qualify for the senior citizen discount) there’s lots of healthy food for folks who can avoid the macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes and gravy, fried chicken, pasta al fredo and bottomless Coca-Cola. I was fully fueled for my 28-mile ride through the Cache Valley into Idaho.

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Riding in the evening is very pleasant, though I would only do it on easy stretches with steady traffic because there’s less time to address emergencies when the sun is waning. Fortunately I got to see more of my favorite Utah architecture – the ice shave stands that are all over the place – and passed into Idaho and on to Preston without any difficulty.

Preston was bustling because it’s Rodeo weekend, but I managed to book a sweet little room at the Rocky Mountain Red Brick Inn; a converted church that was my first night in a bed and breakfast.

 

 

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Profile response: Jessica Gerlach, Rapid City SD

HWWLT Logo on yellowThe rate of change in Jessica Gerlach’s life, age 41, is phenomenal. Only a few years ago this Pierre, South Dakota native lived on an eleven acre spread west of Rapid City with her husband and three children. She brought her kids into town each day for school and ran her two local businesses, a make-it-yourself pottery studio and a community painting storefront. “The house was good, but the four car garage and the shop were incredible. We had several cars and a motor home and snowmobiles, all the toys.” They also had a cabin in a canyon in the Black Hills twelve miles outside of town.

Then things changed pretty fast. “My husband is an avid cyclist. No, that understates it. He’s crazy about cycling. He builds custom homes for a living, but when he got the chance to buy Cranky Jeff’s Cycle Shop we decided to do it. All he wanted was the discounts, but I realized I needed a IMG_2649change. The pottery store was getting stale. So I sold that and invested in the bike store.” The family also bought a warehouse in town and converted into living space. “People do that sort of thing on the Coasts, but not in South Dakota.” Then Jessica’s husband left. “I didn’t see it coming. We met when I was fifteen. I knew we had our peaks and falls, but I figured you just hang through them.” Now, Jessica lives in a 1915 house in the West Side Historic District within blocks of her two painting and bicycle stores. Her children: ages 14 to 21, live with her. Jessica’s businesses are tight operations, but she runs a casual yet lively house. “We have only two rules, respect each other and never lie.” Jessica and I chatted over a dinner of Mexican casserole, quinoa salad, fresh vegetables, and local beer on her back patio on a long summer evening as her children and their friends came and went. “We eat mostly Vegan, but we also like meat and we love Kool-Aid.”

IMG_2648“My father was one of sixteen, my mother one of nine. They grew up poor, and only wanted better for us. So I went to high school, then college (Business degree from South Dakota State), married my boyfriend, had children, started businesses. I can’t say exactly why I did all that. I can say I never thought, ‘I am doing this for me.’ I did was I was supposed to do and never questioned. Now I’m 41 and single and my children are drifting away and I’m not even sure how to formulate that question. What do I want?

IMG_2655“Pierre is a farm community. It’s also the State Capital, but it’s still a farm community. Growing up, my parents were liberal in a conservative state. We were the 25%, the vocal minority. We accepted that our views would never govern. Then the Gore election happened and the country was 51/50. I didn’t take that as a positive sign, I took it as a sign of instability. Life in a 75/25 country is stable, I may not like the ruling policies, but I trust that our country’s essentials are in place – our freedom, our economic basis, our stability. 51/50 is not stable. Third parties are not stable. They can generate 20% support and throw open everything.

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“We all want the same essential aspects for our country, but when we operate from a 51/50 basis, the secondary issues get exaggerated. Healthcare and gay marriage and pro-life are important issues, but they are secondary to our essential freedom. None of us know what will trigger instability, but with so much discord, it could rise out of almost anything.

 

IMG_2654“Our civic responsibilities are falling away, in part because our system is out of sync. I was probably the last person ever to order a mail-in absentee ballot when I was in college. My kids aren’t going to do that. They don’t even know who the governor is. I did, because I lived in Pierre and it was part of our lives. But for my kids, who is governor feels irrelevant. Why is our voting system so archaic? My kids aren’t going to stand in a line in a school gym and get a paper ballot from a 90-year-old woman. It has to be online, with fingerprint verification.”

 

How will we live tomorrow?

“Once you start having an opinion or a belief, that’s when you stop learning. I will try to stay open.”

 

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Trip Log – Day 86 – Kaysville, UT to Logan, UT

Kaysville to LoganJuly 30, 2015 – Sunny, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 62

Miles to Date: 4,828

States to Date: 19

Today I was a bicycle tourist in the truest sense of the word. I left Kaysville about 10 with the general idea to go to Logan, though if something interesting came up along the way, I didn’t have to get there, for I had meetings scheduled and no lodging arranged in advance.

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I rather liked Ogden, which is less affluent than other places along the Wasatch Valley, but also less homogenous. The main street is littered with immigrant stores and restaurants: Mexican bakeries, Chinese buffets, Indian Tandoori, Mongolian Barbeque. Too bad I wasn’t hungry. Downtown featured wonderfully painted horses at the street corners. Just north of town I saw a sign for $5 haircuts. Really? I was straggly and so went in, where Corinne, the chatty wife of an Air Force solider, did a terrific job cutting my hair, at any price.

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The next third of my ride was a perfect stretch of cycling. The breeze was cool. US 89 had light traffic and a great shoulder. The Wasatch Mountains loomed over me to the right, the Great Salt Lake spread out on my left. This stretch of agricultural land is like none I’ve seen in the West – sweet corn and fresh tomatoes; cherries, peaches and watermelons. Handsome orchards march up the mountainsides and farm stands sell terrific produce at ridiculous prices. I stopped at Granny’s for some watermelon, but I couldn’t eat it there, as they aren’t licensed for on-site consumption. They looked juicy and good, but not good enough to weigh down my pannier.

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I decided that if Brigham City looked neat I might stay there. However, US 89 took a sharp right before the town presented a good face and so I decided to pedal on. Up, up, up another eight mile rise to a pass that eventually bought me into Logan Valley. I wasn’t psyched for such rigorous cycling. I just did it.

IMG_3231It was pushing six by the time I pulled into the Econolodge near downtown Logan. The town presented nothing but wide streets and preoccupied motorists, and I was too tired to seek out more character. At least it’s within walking distance of a few eateries. I got cleaned up and set out for dinner, pleased to find a Salvadoran food truck with tables under tents. I ordered the special, which included pamposas, yucca, fried pork and a sweet pancake dessert. Edgar, a local Guatemalan construction worker and college student, joined me in a great dinner conversation.

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Profile Response: Tammy Bohn, Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, Sturgis, SD

 

HWWLT Logo on yellowAugust 3 through 9, 2015 is the 75th Annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Over a million motorcyclists will descend on this small town; the largest assembly of motorcycle enthusiasts in the world. I stopped by Rally Headquarters, hoping to snatch a few moments with the organizers to talk about tomorrow. Tammy Bohn and her rally gals spent over an hour with me, explaining the details of this mammoth event, its impact on Sturgis, how it evolved and will continue to evolve in the future.

JC ‘Pappy’ Hoel organized the first rally in 1938. 200 motorcyclists came to Sturgis to ride through the Black Hills in high summer. The Jackpine Gypsies Cycle Club sponsored the event, with a few lost years during World War II, until the 1980’s, when the Sturgis Rally had grown so large the city took it over. Tammy and the other three rally organizers are actually part of the City of Sturgis ‘Rally Department’. They work out of City Hall.

imgresWhen I arrived Tammy was in the middle of a phone call with one of the events many suppliers. A few moments of eavesdropping helped me fathom the complexity of coordinating crowd barricades, snow fencing, dirt hauling, ambulance procedures, medical supplies, grandstands, and trash hauling. When Tammy got off the phone she explained it was for only one smallish activity. This is what Tammy does all day, every day – work out the details no one much considers so people can roll into town for a good time.

Which is what biking enthusiasts do, not only for Rally Week, but all year long in Sturgis. Between May and December, Sturgis will host 31 events, most centered on two-wheeled vehicles. Road bikes, off-road bikes, bicycles, motocross – they each have special rallies. There’s even a few events for four wheeled machines like Volksmarch and a Camaro Rally. As Tammy puts it, “We know how to host over a half million people. We have the campgrounds and motels and event spaces. We also have incredible rides through the Black Hills. We can make a unique four to five day experience. Since we know how to run these, we might as well run many.”

imagesI ask Tammy what makes Sturgis so special. “People meet up here for fun times. It’s an America we don’t get to see anymore. We all puts aside our differences and enjoy ourselves. The gangs know that when in Sturgis, there is no trouble. Everyone here is passionate about riding, and that is what brings us together.”

The rally defines Sturgis, and is also a significant part of the city’s budget. The city puts out $1.5 million to run the annual rally, but it’s a worthwhile expenditure and the city’s claim to fame. Tammy admits that the rally used to be a drain on the city, but Sturgis’ new city manager operates the city – and the rally – in the black.

IMG_2636Tammy is a natural party planner. Before I leave she stuffs my panniers with Sturgis goodies, gathers me with her staff for a group photo, gives me a warm hug and wishes me Godspeed. She wants me to come back in September for the Grand Fondo, Sturgis’ road bike rally through the Black Hills. I wish I could loop back for that.

 

IMG_2632When I leave City Hall and pedal through downtown, Tammy’s report of the positive economic impact of the Sturgis Rally is evident. A new plaza is being built for this years anniversary rally, and every third store is undergoing improvements in advance of August 3.

 

How will we live tomorrow?

“When we look at the world and our country and our politics, we just want to have a great time. That’s why people come to Sturgis, where everything is fun and everyone gets along.”

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Trip Log – Day 85 – Bountiful, UT to Kaysville, UT

Bountiful to KaysvilleJuly 29, 2015 – Sunny, 90 degrees

Miles Today: 16

Miles to Date: 4,766

States to Date: 19

IMG_3189Today was a day of connecting with my own family and meeting another who is quite extraordinary. I spent the morning with my sister-in-law Julie and her son Steve. He makes an awesome breakfast.

 

IMG_3196 IMG_3194Then I visited Kadee and Brad Troop and their seven adopted children, four of whom have EB (Epidermolysis Bullosa) a rare genetic disease; the other three were born with drug-related syndromes.

 

IMG_3214I pedaled up the Rio Grande bike trail to my niece Jessica’s and spent the evening with Jes and her two children as well as my nephew David and his wife Jennifer. Ammon is a Lego fiend; we spent time concocting Star Wars sets at his Lego table. Emma is only four but just ditched the training wheels on her bike. She’s fearless on two wheels. I figure she’ll be ready to join me, maybe next summer?

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Trip Log – Day 84 – Pleasant Grove, UT to Bountiful, UT

Provo to BountifulJuly 28, 2015 – Sunny, 80 degrees

Miles Today: 47

Miles to Date: 4,750

States to Date: 19

Salt Lake City Adventures!

I got up and out early – back on the Murdoch Creek trail by 5:30 a.m. to get to CR England trucking company’s headquarters in industrial west Salt Lake by ten. The 42 miles trip looked manageable – almost all bike trails. My directions showed a gap between the Murdoch Creek Trail and Jordan River Trail, but the trail signage indicated they were connected. So I followed the signs and was feeling confident. By seven I had logged fourteen miles and turned a beautiful bend along the Jordan River Trail when – bam – it ended in a gravel quarry.

imgresI backtracked four miles, my mind racing as fast as my feet to make up lost time. I couldn’t possibly make it to my appointment by ten. Time to ramp up to faster mode. I’d passed the Lehi City commuter train station and decided to catch a train to Salt Lake City and pedal to CR England from there. A train approached as I rolled into the station, I slid down the ramp below the tracks and pressed up the ramp to the platform. The conductor waved me into the bicycle car and I rumbled north with only a general idea where I was going. The route schedule listed disembarking options. The conductor walked by and gave me a knowing smile; she never asked for my ticket. Earnest looking people can commit minor infractions with impunity. I got off at Salt Lake Central Station, cycled south and west through the city grid and arrived at CR England by 9:10 a.m.

After talking about trucking tomorrow I meandered back toward the city and passed the LDS Church Humanitarian Center. Intrigued, I stopped. The engaging receptionist explained the center’s purpose and invited me on a tour, where I learned about the Mormon’s international relief efforts. Back in the saddle, I pedaled to my one o’clock meeting at Palmer Court, a supportive housing program for homeless people. I left, close to three, famished, and overwhelmed by three consecutive interviews.

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I stopped by Winger’s in downtown for a burger and fires. My waitress was a warm, chatty woman fascinated by my trip. She revealed that she’s homeless. I shuddered at the eerie coincidence, as I just came from meeting formerly homeless people. We talked about her options for permanent housing and wished each other well on our respective pursuits. I rode through downtown, past Temple Square and the Capital, on north to Bountiful.

I arrived at my sister-in-law Julie’s place after five. Jessica and David, two of Julie’s children, joined us, along with David’s wife Jennifer and Jessica’s children Ammon and Emma. My niece and nephew left after dinner; Julie and I had a lot of catching up to do. We talked ‘til midnight.

 

 

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